Yep, new to me.
One thing I bought for it is lowering links, to lower it 1'',
there are tons and tons of drag racers that lower theirs
yet not one ZX14R lowering tutorial on youtube,
I found a website that covered it but not to the
extent I could actually use any of the info.
I got halfway into the project today and decided I
was over my head, had one link actually removed,
started assessing everything I was doing and
decided to put it back on before I got into
trouble.
One heads up I came across in a GSXR1000
sports bike video was that we will most likely
need to also adjust the chain when done,
so if I get back into the project, I'll be keeping
that in mind.
Anyone thinking about doing a complete
vid tutorial on this in the near future?
Bike is ok as is but would be sweet if I could
drop it 1'' or 1.25 which I think is the standard distance
for the 3 hole link set up.

Congrats on the new 14 and welcome!

I put raising links on my Hayabusa a few years ago. They're not adjustable but they raise the tail a full inch. The install was pretty simple. The main thing is torquing the bolts properly. I actually never finished the project and returned the bike to stock in order to trailer it and there it still sits. Yes, I'm sure you'll need to adjust the chain slack quite a bit. If you're lowering, that will make the wheelbase longer, won't it? I think there's a good chance the axle slots would accommodate an inch longer wheelbase. If not, you'd need to install a shorter chain.

I liked Brock's adjustable links but the last time I checked, they were only for lowering. I plan to lift the rear on my 14R and Soupy's adjustable links are the only thing I've heard recomended to do that.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/19/2025 @ 11:38 AM *

Thanks Rook,

I appreciate the welcome and the heads up
on these issues.
I dind't think to measure the chain slack
before the operation, I'm letting the bike cool down
so I can take it back apart... lol

I'm working through a mystery this am,
my existing links look factory,
one hole each end forged 'Kawasaki' looking
they each have a '1' stamped on the inside 'fold'.
with holes being 7'' on center.
--
My new links are shaped a bit differently (if
that makes any difference) but there are 3 holes
on one end for typical lowering distance options.
---
Here's the rub, what I can't figure out,
I went for the last hole because the center hole
to the opposite end of the links
measure the same 7'' as the assumed stock link
that I'd take off, hence I chose the last hole
or the furthest out hole thinking I might be lowering
it 1'' , maybe 1.25,,
the vendor did included 'numbers' or instructions,
and hadn't replied to queries.
The bottom clearance to pipes is about 3 1/4'' now
and factory is spec looks to be 5.9''
So I've got the bike effectively lowered by 3''.... ???
----
I took the bike out for a test, it was
a noticeably bumpy ride, but didn't behave oddly.
--
I think the bike has cooled enough to go back out
and work on it, I'm going to put it on the center hole
though it seems like I'll be putting the ride height
back where it was when I bought the bike, which
is by all accounts fully stock... :shrugs:
---
Thanks again..

Probably too late but I use Brocks adjustable lowering links . Infinitely adjustable and simple.

* Last updated by: chrly on 10/19/2025 @ 3:19 PM *

Thanks,
Yeah I'll have to try them next time.

Sounds like you have a set of all or nothing links. They'll probably work for you but if you need an "in between", you'll have to go with adjustables.

Most of the 3 hole links I've used were stock, -1.5", -3" got the Brock's on the drag bike now.

That seems to be the case here.

My stock links on my 08 are cast metal. They are curved to fit around the lower mount of the shock. They have two ribs on the outer surfaces for reinforcement. The LH stock link has a 5 molded (not stamped) on it. I can't see the RH link but I assume it is exactly the same part.

As long as the aftermarket links you have were designed for a ZX-14 and the pivot surfaces fit flat to all mounts, they should work. I have a suspension removal tutorial for the Gen1 that might help you. It's in the How-Tos section. Unfortunately, the pics need to be reloaded. One thing, that top ti-rod nut is extremely hard to break loose. It took so much force, the flats dented.

Sorry, I'm having difficulty at the moment with my photos here on the forum. I hope this is only temporary. ...otherwise I'd show you exactly what my stock links look like.

Yes, these look to be OEM's as well,
cast-steel, confidence inspiring by
comparison.
I installed the aftermarket links twice,
it's about right but not perfect, I'd
like another 1/4'' lowered but the
next option is 3'' , I'd accidently
installed it that way the first time,
that was way too low for street,
at least for me, it gave up
way too much travel, and scraped
where it hadn't scraped before the operation.
---
I used a breaker bar for the top and bottom
19mm bolts, my impact wrench couldn't budge them.
-----------
Your text to link here...
I took pictures but I think we need use a
3rd party link to have them show.
I'll make my OEM link my avatar for the day,
I'll bet yours is the same, or very close,
even though I think you said yours is 14,
the previous gen.

I took pictures but I think we need use a
3rd party link to have them show.
I'll make my OEM link my avatar for the day,

The forum pics have worked well for me most of the time. It seems when my computer first connects to the internet, the hundreds of pictures I have here populate extremely slowly and it overloads my computer. My wifi somehow disconnected a few days ago and I had to reconnect. I can use the internet but my favorites on my opening browser page didn't populate for a couple days. Apparently, there are shortcuts that are wiped out by disconnection from the internet. I believe the pictures function problem is related to that. I have a second account with very few pictures so it loads in a reasonable amount of time. I hate to use it unless absolutely necessary because there is no way to delete pictures (i.e. I don't want to end up with two accounts that load slowly when I have the wifi issue). If you're having the same problem, it probably will improve as you use the forum more often.

Excellent idea to use your avatar to show pics! Yep, that looks like an OEM tie-rod.

Yes, my 08 is a Gen1. Maybe that's why the number on the part is different. I just looked at my 2024 and the tie rod has a 7.

IDK if the number on the OEM tie-rods indicates any difference between parts or if it identifies some other piece of info (such as where/when the part was made). It seems likely that the tie-rods are the same between all years of ZX-14. You could check by looking up the part number on a Kawasaki parts page. I'll bet they're all the same part number.

Yeah, absolutely no doubt they are OEM's.
---
There is a directional stamp on the insides,
at first I assumed they'd mean up, (western logic),
but then I looked at the other one that was still
in place and it's arrow was pointed downward lol, 'eastern logic'.
They are also both stamped with the number 2 on
the outside.
Paper weights at this point, until I decide to
make it stock again.
These links would make excellent handles for something,
if 1/2 to 1'' stand-offs were used when mounting,
super heavy duty.

Did you notice my avatar for today,
it shows one of my OEM links.

Most of the aftermarket lowering links are different lengths. There are 4 kinds of lowering links.

Fully adjustable- They have nuts and a stud that let you change the total length of the link while installed, cool for adjustability, questionable strength (I had one set of these break during adjustment)...

3 window- Has three positions where you can change which hole you put the shock mount through to change ride height in the rear.

2 window- same concept.

5 window- same concept. haven't seen any for sale.

My Roaring Toyz brand lowering links supposedly lower the bike 1", 2.5" or 4" (I believe). But all brands and knock offs are different. Looks like most are advertised as 1", 2", 3". Or 1", 1.5" 3". Or 0", ?", 4" (unsure what middle value is)

If you want maximum adjustability and height control- get the Brocks Adjustable ones. If you're looking for max ground clearance get: https://robbushmotorsports.ecwid.com/RBM-ZX14-FLAT-LINK-06-24-p690376034. Be careful lowering the bike too much. Your tire will eat the underside of the bike and eventually the ECU. My ecu had a nice tire-shaped dish worn into it. Still completely functional. just no long waterproof. You need an aluminum Tiger Tail ideally

Did you notice my avatar for today,
it shows one of my OEM links.

Yep, I mentioned that in my first comment today. Great idea!

Interesting Danmin,
yikes, and ECU is not cheap from what I've found,
and not sure how to go about pairing a new one
up to my bike if I ever need to.
---
As I mentioned earlier, I tried the last link
cause the center measured the same as my oem link,
7'' , but that last link just slammed the bike
by 3'' and I don't have anyone to drag race out here. lol
--
Odly though, when I put it on the 7'' hole or middle hole
is seemed like it lower it a bit, I'll have to take
it off and put the stock one back on to be sure.
--
Brock's does look like the way to go but I don't get
why his 'adustable' isn't staggered with an offset,
I don't see any lateral swivel action in the desgign,
probably doesn't matter, but oem and the link I just
put on both have the offsets, I guess cause the lower
part of the suspension is narrower.

Rook,
I got notifications for two posts this am,
but somehow when I cued them up, only the shorter
post came up twice so I didn't see the other.
--
I don't mind slow photo uploads, but it looked like
3rd party or nothing, there is mention of
Gavatar that I guess is a hosting site.
Is there a site-specific photo hosting
feature is Gavatar part of that?
---
You're '24 stamped with a 7, somehow coinciding
with the year or gen changes perhaps?

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 10/21/2025 @ 3:17 PM *

Brock's does look like the way to go but I don't get
why his 'adustable' isn't staggered with an offset,
I don't see any lateral swivel action in the desgign,
probably doesn't matter, but oem and the link I just
put on both have the offsets, I guess cause the lower
part of the suspension is narrower.

I thought the OEM links fit a wider mount on the top than the bottom but wasn't sure. It's not easy to tell by my pics. The links pictured by Brock's might just be a general picture to represent all variations of this product. The Picture might show links for a Hayabusa or some other bike ....or maybe they come with spacers for the bottom mount of a ZX-14. I'd call Brock's and ask.

Is there a site-specific photo hosting
feature is Gavatar part of that?

I think I've heard of something called Gravatar but I have no idea what it is.

You can load pics to the forum from your computer desktop.

Scroll to the bottom of a post. There is the box where you type your messages. The message box has a toolbar across the top. From the left, there is a icon for B, I, and U. The next icon to the right looks like a polaroid photo of a tree. I do not ever use it but looks like it's meant for entering a url of a photo already online. The next icon to the right looks exactly the same as the last except it has a + sign in the lower righthand corner. Click on it to load a photo from your desktop to your forum photo collection (briefcase). The next icon to the right looks like a briefcase. Click on it to access you collection of forum photos. Any time you want to post this photo in a message, you just click the thumbnail from your briefcase. I'd suggest you plan some way to easily find photos in your briefcase. Your briefcase automatically arranges photos into alphabetical/numeric order according to the file name. The order of photos in your briefcase cannot be changed nor can any be deleted. Once you accumulate a couple hundred photos in your briefcase, it can get pretty hard to find them alphabetically/numerically (if you can even remember what the file name was). I have all my photos organized according to topic into folders and subfolders on my computer so I can search them out easily. If I want to post a photo from my briefcase, I just find the image on my computer and check what I named the file. That way, I can find it easily using the alphabetical/numerical system the forum briefcase organizes the pics in.

Excellent thanks Rook.

Here's my Gold Wing as a test, I'm sure it
will work though.
I devised a plan to get what I want of of
my lowering link, I'll post photos when
done, I'll be buying a second set so I can
have it finished, ready to install without
losing bike time.

EDIT;
I was sure that photo uploaded but I guess not....
checking...... still checking....

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 10/22/2025 @ 3:46 PM *

I got it figured out but get this msg now
when trying to add to the last post.

''An error has occurred.
The developers have been notified of this error and will investigate it.

Maybe something to do with me trying to shrink my photo
within the briefcase..... I got the msg then also...

I'm glad you learned to post pics. That's a nice Wing you own too!

My briefcase is still loading slowly although the thumbnails for most of them through C appear instantly. I'll just open my briefcase each time I visit the forum and I think all my pics will be available eventually.

Nice looking Goldwing!

Thanks Rook and BigBs!
One thing Honda got right is that
when I put it in first gear the clank is
almost not even there.
My Harley clanked heavily as does
my 14r.

Yep, everyone's ZX-14 clunks from Neutral to 1st gear. My Vulcan Classic did it too as did my fathers Vulcan Drifter. The shift from first to second was even noisey on those cruisers but it was more of a snap than a clunk. I heard the term, "Kawasaki clunk" all the way back in the 70s. I believe it's the positive Neutral finder feature of the Kawasaki shifting mechanism. The Gen1 has a manual idle control you can adjust lower to soften the clunk but Hub warns that a low idle is hard on the crankshaft. You can also roll the bike forward while shifting from N to 1st which softens the clunk. That roll and shift to first technique is probably the only option with the Gen2. It's ok, I've grown to love the clunk.