I am not very impressed with what needs to be done to access the battery compartment. So, I want to permanently extend the battery posts to under the seat for easy access for future trickle charging or jumpstarts.

I can figure it out easily enough on my own but wanted to see what others might of rigged up for a fancier install. Please include the link for parts if you respond.

I am also going to run a fuse pannel to the dash area for easy upgrades. Since most upgrades are in the dash area anyway. I will be putting an all in one panel with fused power and ground. That way I only need to add a relay for it to come on with the key.

I intend to add oxford heated grips and hook my undertail and badge lighting to it and my cigarette lighter adapter for my radar detector/ usb charger port.

thanks
Chewy.

You should be able to buy some pigtails that will reach about 12 inches. The Shorai charger comes with them although that wire is only set up for hooking to a charger). A lot of other chargers come with pigtails. Make your own out of 18 AWG wire and ring terminals. Maybe go with 14 AWG. I can't see a problem with that.

Make your own out of 18 AWG wire

Either you are stoned or you don't understand my needs.....jump a battery off 18ga wire?

Any way save some of that shit for me......must be the bomb! lol

Chewy.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 9/28/2018 @ 8:08 PM *

OK I thought you were thinking trickle charger and maybe an accessory.

I'd say if you need to jump your battery often enough to justify hardwiring jumper wires, you don't need jumper wires, you need a new battery.

I'd say if you need to jump your battery often enough

no I haven't had a dead battery yet but my voltage is not great....running it is 13.5-14.1 max....I think that is acceptably low. However, if I get a dead battery on the road it is going to be easy to get a jump from someone if I only have to pop off the seat and hook it up. The way it is now I have to remove some fairings, etc. Not a great way to get back on the road.

I am surprised more people haven't chimed in about this. Surely someone found the stock setup unacceptable like me.

Chewy.

*knock on wood* I have yet to need to jump start my 2008 so I think its safe to say that is a rare event and I wouldn't recommend going through the effort of rigging something up with that purpose in mind. Regarding the battery, my car is currently sitting at 11.5v (maybe a bit less now, haven't checked it in a few months) and still fires up like a champ. She's getting a new battery when the weather gets colder as 9 years from a battery is pretty reasonable in my opinion.

As for running something to connect more accessories, I actually did something similar as I have a number of things connected (PCV, autotune, heated clothing, battery tender, pretty sure other stuff I forgot about). I was troubleshooting an issue and ended up using a piece of battery wire (same as the negative to ground wire that is on the bike now) to connect to the negative terminal of the battery, extended it out of the battery box area and close to the throttle bodies where I connected everything up with a bolt, washers and a nut. It works nicely and I've left it that way (the frame ground appeared to be giving me issues but that's a whole other forum post).

As for parts, if you aren't going to worry about jump starting the bike, you can get away with thinner gauge wire which will be a LOT easier to run to where you want. There are various ways of connecting these wires to the battery but a simple ring terminal (looks like a circle that you put a bolt through and the other end crimps onto the wire) would be probably the simplest and are easily found at almost any automotive store. Don't forget to put an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible and I personally soldered that ring terminal onto the wire as well but I'm a bit paranoid that way.

You don't need anything special really.Drill a hole through your battery compartment.Run a thick 'jump acceptable' thickness of wire down through there(and to the engine case area on that side) and cap it off(SECURELY).Any cables from a jump go to that hot lead,and the ground to the brake pedal.You say your charging volts 'aint that great'.That's what they all run...14 something while cruising.Nothin wrong there at all.Keep a tender on her...should NEVER fail on the road.You'll know way before it dies if you're payin attention while you're ridin...IF you have a reason to be concerned.
I had one fail on me once...during a ride.It didn't just stop working though.It started runnin strange.Loss of power.Coughing.It got me home.Some guy at a store jumped it.It had been acting like this for a day or so.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/2/2018 @ 12:49 AM *

You may remember, I had my battery COMPLETELY fail with no warning whatsoever. Stopped for a photo.
Got back on...click...everything dead. At Crater Lake Oregon. 2 hours from the nearest shop.
Swiped my son's bike ran down the mountain, bought a new battery, everything good for the rest of the trip. Apparently a cell shorted out.

Mad

Well,yeah.That happens.I guess sometimes it will just stop totally.Without any signs.

At Crater Lake Oregon

I lived about 30 miles from Lake Tahoe for ten years and loved its beauty.......Crater Lake is another destination I would love to see some day.

Chewy

alright I will comb the web and find some slick way to extend the cables somewhere. Just want to find some really cool end connectors with caps on them before I begin. I will route it maybe under the seat, maybe somewhere else. Be back soon with pictures. It will take me a bit because I am going to do the accessory fuse panel with a relay in the dash area if possible for all future needs...just gotta take some measurements and come up with a plan.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 10/5/2018 @ 10:56 PM *

I know this is years later but I’m looking for an answer. I have done all sorts of things and seem to have ani reliable battery. Even after changing. I was away a couple of weeks ago and the bike wouldn’t kick over. Luckily I had a jump starter but frustrated as I pulled body panels off to get to the battery. Jump started without an issue. Of course it was pouring rain.

I started it a week later without having it on the trickle charger. No problem.

Point is, I just don’t seem to know when it will struggle. Well I do, usually when I am about to go for a ride! There have been times I’ve taken it off the trickle charger and left it for half an hour only to find it fails to start. I’ve had a mechanic identify a poorearth connection and it become more reliable after that but as my issue a couple of weeks showed, I still can’t fully trust it.

I’ve thought about your solution to access the battery but was thinking hanging it under the right fairing where the trickle charger leads are. I like your idea of under the seat so hoping you got this happening. I’d love to see if you did.

Here are real numbers off the 14 I use. So say you're in being close or match them. You can watch the 3 charging loop components by using a voltmeter at their battery posts and begin as such:

12.8v or more is a well charged battery. Battery volts means PUSH. So think plenty of reserve PUSH.
12.8v with key on, no start is the read. Shows reserve and can hold this number.
11.1v is when the starter motor is at its load test or cranking [pushing] some amps out.
12.8v is immediately recovered to its static number is showing a good battery.
10.1v is the load test of the battery and static [returned] number is under 12.8v is battery going key-put.
14.4v is the next read, keeping eyes on the meter and watch 12.8v be shown as a blip in the night from its load of 11.1v. As the engine starts so shows a good stator and rectifier working perfect numbers at 14.4v.

BS means: battery acid supplied when buying a new battery. So acid in and let saturate into the pleats before charging. So say it sits for an hour.

12N14a means: it's a 12v battery with 14 rated amps. N is for cable post positions on top of that box. So you now know you need at least a 1.4amp rated charger is the formula, and 14 hours of it sitting at that charge rate.

I would not use a 1.2amp rated charger for a 14a battery. A 12N12a rated battery, yes. Formula is for at least a 1.2a rated charger cooking it for 12 hours straight.

A one time charge to get a battery up for service is the dealer level. You'd be lucky to get 4/5yrs out of a new battery. Want to try for 9yrs is this type of charge pre-prepping:

1. Acid filled and cap off. Let sit for an hour at least.
2. Charge for the 1st 14 hour charge.
3. Drain the battery down to 1 or 2v. and charge for 14 hours rated. This is 2nd charge.
4. Drain for the last time of the 1 or 2v range. This is the 3rd fully charged battery and is now for service.
5. Check every charge loop to be charged past the 12.8v aim or at 12.8v.
6. A volt checked in the static that sits for days, weeks, must be charged when the battery read 12.6v. Time to recharge. Do go under that number, remember.

I've tried this and it works for me. Takes a long time to drain and charge so last battery I only charged it twice and the static read was set at 12.4v. Have to commit next time is the prep time.

Signed,
NOLTT