Hello gents, I have the dreaded frozen brake pedal on my 2013 se. My first thought was get the Brocks abs eliminator kit and just do away with it but didnt want to lose my ktrc. I ended up buying a new module pump from a fella in Ontario Canada that buys new bikes and strips them down.$150 bucks for a brand new abs module as compared To $600 to delete and replace seems like a no brainer. Everything I am seeing says it will work and is fairly easy to bleed. Wish me luck. Hub, do you have any advice?

* Last updated by: Daddyrabbit on 3/9/2026 @ 4:23 PM *

Never heard of a brake freeze with ABS. If you break the caliper banjo loose, does the wheel free up? Say yes it frees up, then it could be a bad master with a clogged return hole, Say yes, it is still stuck breaking the banjo bolt. Then it's the caliper quad ring not returning to square.

To understand how the quad ring works, say the quad is home looking like this [ }} ]. When you hit the brakes the quad moves like this [ // } in the groove. When the pressure is released, it goes back to square, pulls the piston away and the pads release off the disk.

The remedy for this is to remove the piston out of the way in the caliper, remove the quad ring and see if there is a white crystal layer keeping the quad from returning back to square,

So if it loosens up with a banjo break, it could be the master's clogged return hole or the ABS is stuck. Only way of knowing the dufference.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/10/2026 @ 2:20 AM *

Its a common problem on the older abs bikes. The valve in the module sticks from lack of use. You guys with abs bikes make sure and activate the abs from time to time. Its been a minor nuisance for the past couple years and I could press really hard on the pedal and it would force the valve open. No love this time, I actually broke the rearset from trying to get it freed. Its really the first trouble I have had in the 12 years of ownership. Its only the pedal thats stuck, the calipers themselves are acting normal. Damndest thing

* Last updated by: Daddyrabbit on 3/10/2026 @ 6:29 AM *

Is that Harry up in Canada?
If it is, I've dealt with him many times and he's great to deal with.
Hank

He is in Canada but his name is Cory. I got a $1600 abs module for $150 bucks, brand new takeoff. He strips brand new bikes down for parts. He had everthing zx14r.
He is 519402bike on ebay, super nice guy. He driv3s shipments to Detroit to keep from having to pay export fees.

* Last updated by: Daddyrabbit on 3/11/2026 @ 12:25 PM *

That's the other Hoser that does the same thing as Harry.
I never dealt with Cory but have heard only good things about him.
T-Rex is the manufacturer and they use the motor, handlebar switches, wiring harness, cluster, etc. and sell the skeleton to Corey and possibly Harry who dismantle them for parts and then they resell the parts.
Cory's website is 402bike
Thanks for the reply.
Hank

* Last updated by: HanksZX on 3/11/2026 @ 3:04 PM *

That explains no motors or electronics on his listings. He does have full bodies including tank and headlights for $1700. Im stoked to get my module and get it installed. Should be ezy peezy on the install and bleed. Kawasaki isnt kidding on their brake fluid change schedule.

Sadly Harry passed away a few years ago. I'd bought a few things from him while having my high boost motor built in 2021/22. then he was gone... not sure what took him!

Damn shame, he always treated me well,
RIP Harry...

Got it changed out today. Pretty straightforward, had to slide the battery and tray over to get the old module out. Did a little maintenance, coolant was a little low, battery terminals needed tightened and air filter needed blown out. It works perfectly, the brakes feel like they did when it was brand new. Bleeding was pretty straightforward, I thought they were good till a couple hundred yards the the module cycled and locked up the back brake. Popped the bleeder loose and it freed right up. After several brake stomps in gravel to cycle the unit and another round of bleeding it is good to go. I will say this was the best route for me, I was really close to spending $500 on a delete module and lines and ended up fixing it for $150 bucks. To say I am pleased would be an understatement!

* Last updated by: Daddyrabbit on 3/28/2026 @ 6:40 PM *

I'm glad it worked out for you. I'll be deleting the whole system to dump the weight but it will suck to be without KTRC. Thanks for the heads up n that.

Rook, you will have to get the delete module from Brocks, about 350 bucks and plugs into the harness.

thankyou Daddyrabbit. That will be for next winter. I don't think the nannies outdo experience but for people like me who need to relearn how to ride every year, the nannies downright make sense. I'm still ditching as much weight as i can off this behemoth.

When I deleated the abs on my 2015 I just removed the module from the HCU and have it plugged into the harness. Speedometer operates and no warning lights come on. The module weighs next to nothing and I zip tied a plastic bag over it to protect it from corrosion or moisture on the HCU side now exposed.

Gotcha, I saw where another fella took the valve body off and reattached the pump then plugged it in.

* Last updated by: Daddyrabbit on 3/31/2026 @ 6:32 PM *

Ford tech 58 I don't know if you can help me. I did the same thing that you did, but my ABS light is on all the time now,everything else works perfectly. What should I do? Thanks much!

* Last updated by: Persico on 4/7/2026 @ 6:38 PM *

I removed the ABS light from the gauge cluster. Everything works as normal except I no longer have ABS or KTRAC.The bike is about five pounds lighter. Most importantly, no codes or warning lights. Thanks!

Persico, I did my build at the end of 2016 so I may have missed a step or two. I may have removed the abs related fuses also but I'd have to check that. I have a 2012 non-abs cluster that I was going to install but never did.

Sounds good brother. Thanks for getting back to me. So far everything is good on my bike. I always hated looking at that stupid ABS light anyway...