UPDATE/EDIT/CORRECTION;
AI was incorrect, the thread is actually M10 X 1.0 ,
I took the distribution block (with lower brake line)
into O'Reilly's this am and we discovered that
it is NOT 1.25 pitch, the pitch is 1.0 .

I believe this is what I need for capping off
a couple of brass brake lines.
I've used this search (In title), and numerous
variations a couple of dozen
times and it DOES NOT EXIST? lol

The returns, or available items are M10 1.0 Pitch,
and the best info I can find claims that I need
M10 1.25. For my '13 ZX14R

Does anyone know where I can find these or a
sure-fire search term that will locate them?

Or is my info bad and M10x 1.0 is the correct size?

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 7/8/2026 @ 9:24 AM *

Or is my info bad and M10x 1.0 is the correct size?

The only thing you could do is try the M10 x 1 but if it doesn't thread right in, it's the wrong pitch. Wrong pitch, I'd say it will stick after a half turn or less. If it's wrong, it's wrong. Don't force it, get the right one.

I'm not sure if you could test fit an M10 x 1.25 bolt. Bolt thread has a different shape than pipe thread if I recall. Pipe thread reduces in diameter for a tight seal if I'm not mistaken.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/7/2026 @ 4:05 PM *

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You could measure the fitting that came out of the hole you want to plug. M10 means 10mm diameter. 1.25 means 1.25 threads per mm. Measure across six threads, that should tell you what the threads/mm is. 9mm would be 1.25. 6mm would be M10 x 1. ...I'm going on memory from 12 years ago but you should be able to measure the pitch. Do some Googling, get some info but if you have five mm of thread to measure, you should be able to get a pretty good idea.

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You could measure the fitting that came out of the hole you want to plug. M10 means 10mm diameter. 1.25 means 1.25 threads per

Thanks,
Agreed, I'm overly familiar with thread dia and
thread pitch, though it was always a mystery to me
until just a few years ago. :smi

--

Do some Googling, get some info but if you have
five mm of thread to measure, you should be able to get a pretty good idea.

Yeah, and actually with decent calipers the distance
from one tip to the next is a pretty good call.
Also tapered fit, yep, that's what I figure, like
a plumbing taper, I should get maybe 3 to 5 threads in
pretty clean and easy with fingers (?), then I'll figure I've
probably got the right pitch....
I've googled this inquiry 100 ways to hell and gotten
back the same non-answers, the best one from AI,
which seemed like it was quite confident is that for
zx14r I'm should be looking for M10 X 1.25 pitch, NOT
the M10 1.0 pitch.
Time will tell.

--
If I don't hear back from @daddy rabbit before am,
I'll separate the two modular blocks from the hard-lines
and take the fuel line assembly, that heads to the calipers
off and visit O'Reilly's and or Ace hdwe in the am,
and see if they either have some info/varification, or I can
find the actual plug.

I should have bought one of those thread id blocks decades ago,
not sure why I never did, but then I'd probably need a taper-
fit block with all the sizes too , if that exists.

CORRECTION;
I updated my OP, the pitch is not 1.25, it's 1.0.
We checked it out at O'Reilly's.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 7/8/2026 @ 11:06 AM *

You have a talented O'Reilly's if they know anything about motorcycles.

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Auto Zone is worse, they're almost rude about
not selling anything bike related, I avoid that store.

Kawasaki dealer, couldn't be bothered,
acted/pretended like they knew what it was.

Chic at O'Reilly's had not a fchg clue,
could also not be bothered, ''check with the
guy I talked to next time he's there''

People wonder why I prefer shopping amazon, ebay
etc...

O'Reilly's does hire some hot young babes though, at least here. The last one they had works with me at my job now. Good gawd, I'm peeking every thirty-forty seconds!

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/9/2026 @ 2:02 PM *

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O'Reilly's does hire some hot young babes though, at least here. The last one they had works with me at my job now. Good gawd, I'm peeking every thirty-forty seconds!

They move on pretty quickly, and are quite rare, in this area.

I chose a shty vendor, having not looked at their
feedback, I almost always look at feedback first,
their feedback record is horrid. lol

...Getting strung along, NO communication at all,
tried to cancel, finally got a note from ebay,
''too late to cancel'' lol, item still not even
shipped, not even a tracking number, and not
one email inquiry was responded to.

I finally decided that it might be a good idea
to measure the exact lengths that I need and
just order 10MM (Banjo bolt hole dia) braided lines.
Measuring the exact length needed will be tricky
but probably doable, I did search around trying
to determine the two lengths and struck out.

It's been a long time since I bought brake lines but they usually come with the proper banjo bolts. Galfer, Goodridge and I believe Spiegler all come with the bolts.

I would go with one line from the MC to each caliper instead of the over the fender line. Also, kevlar if you can find that for the ZX-14. Goodridge had a kevlar kit years back. It's very light weight. Get aluminum banjo bolts and torque about 25% less than spec.

When I do brake lines, I remove the triple tree cover and horn along with the OEM brake line brackets. I have ABS so I'm not sure how that will go on the new busa and 14R.

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It's been a long time since I bought brake lines but they usually come with the proper banjo bolts. Galfer, Goodridge and I believe Spiegler all come with the bolts.

I need one long/double banjo bolt but also found
one on amazon if needed, EDIT; I also have one
dbl banjo bolt from the oem crossover junction.
I bought braided lines
separately, so they don't come with the double banjo,
but I should be ok on that. I'm going with a 35'' / left side,
and a 28'' +- right side.

I've been through the gauntlet trying to find
flared cap nuts and ordered some acorn nuts to start with,
a pretty lame choice but the best I can do for now.
I did find the proper item last week, but from
an obscure vendor, I may wind up ordering them
eventually, also I still may go back to
O'Reilly's and try to find the guy that said he
could order them.
Parts will/should be here early this upcoming week.
I have a glimmer of hope that when I have everything
finished, I 'might' have some rear abs, abs has
proved to be a good thing for me, I found that
I'm not quite as talented/skilled as I'd thought
with keeping the back from locking up unintentionally.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 7/11/2026 @ 10:48 AM *

What are the flared cap nuts for? The only place I see acorn nuts on the bike is to fasten the mirrors. Whatever it is, seems an acorn with a washer should do it.

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What are the flared cap nuts for? The only place I see acorn nuts on the bike is to fasten the mirrors. Whatever it is, seems an acorn with a washer should do it.

That's the subject of the thread, it's been
a wild goose-chase finding the correct flared
end caps or end plugs, plugs/caps to cap off
the abandoned abs lines that go to the abs pump, from
the front.
These acorn nuts are the worst possible choice,
as I mentioned, but they're all I'd been able to find so far.
No one I've asked even knows they exist.
I have a couple of sources left to exhaust, and once
I find the proper flared end caps, I'll put the abs fuses
back in and see if I've got abs available in the rear,
though, there will be some fluid loss in the
abandoned lines heading to the pump, I'm not sure how
I'll be able to bleed them and if it's even possible.

/

OH, I see, you're going to plug lines that have male threads. Usually a plug is male and it blocks female threads like a pipe plug. So you're looking for a cap but it's the same difference. I think "male" when I hear the word "plug."

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OH, I see, you're going to plug lines that have male threads. Usually a plug is male and it blocks female threads like a pipe plug. So you're looking for a cap but it's the same difference. I think "male" when I hear the word "plug."

Exactly, and yeah, searching using flare brake line plug,
or even cap for that matter comes up with male ends, even
though I include the term Female, I think mainly due to the
fact that the item is not at all mainstream.
And Yeah, I'm willing to give up rear abs, so at least I
can start riding my bike again, but thinking that maybe
it is possible once those ends are capped, that I'll
have pressure and maybe, just maybe I'll have some rear
abs action, thought I'm sure the ABS light will be on
full time, which I'm fine with.
I have the lines now, had to reorder from another source,
it may be too hot to operate in the am, but if not,
I should be able to run the bike a little bit tomorrow.

Thanks....

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 7/13/2026 @ 4:54 PM *

Wed;
Great brakes
Thur;
Great brakes.
Two days earlier;
I bypassed the ABS MODULE for the front
and pulled the three abs fuses.
I ran dedicated lines from the MC
to left caliper and right caliper.

I realized I'd lose the module, but it also turns
off my speedometer and turns on the check engine light and
ktrc (traction control) and ktrc light,
Power level and KTRC display flash after about a mile,
or at the point that ABS confirms or decides
that there is an ABS issue.
----
Will an ECU FLASH be able to include,
restoring ktrc, SPEEDO, and getting rid of check eng light?
Or do I need to buy Brock's ABS delete module?

I'm betting on Brock's but ask Ivan. Also, you might be interested to look at this recent thread: https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=0EECEF95-0803-C61B-0C6937FADFA11AB9&page=1

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I'm betting on Brock's but ask Ivan. Also, you might be interested to look at this recent thread:

Thanks, prolly so, I figured on asking Ivan but thought
just maybe someone here'd been through this.
---
I checked out that kds thread, not sure what kds is but
looks like some kind of scanner and controller by
reading the OP...

I'm building a little rocket ship for
plugging the end of those abandoned abs
lines so they can hold pressure,
might get the final part tomorrow.
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I'll then put the 3 fuses back in and
see what I see.

Got my fingers crossed for ya!

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Thanks Rook.