Here locally , we are required to have a tethered kill switch. Anyone have suggestions for an good place for hooking into the ZX14 ?

I got the Schnitz plug and play version, no splicing required.

Thanks.. I will take a look at it..My last new bike was a 2001 ZRX so plug and play is a new experience for me.

I just got one off a buddy that I believe is an MPS. It replaces the front side of the bracket for your brake lever and super easy to install.

I'm looking at what style of kill switch to use.
I'd like to also do a key delete, would this 'easy mount' tether kill switch be a good option?
According to Schnitz I'd need to run a relay to the starter switch to handle the current flow with headlights, rad fans, and maybe an electric water pump..
Has anyone done a similar relay setup before?

So has anyone run a relay switch for the ignition on a motorcycle before?

I really don't see the purpose of a key delete unless your down to a single purpose race machine and have exhausted all other weight savings options. Are you drag racing or LSR?

Just plan on standing mile/lsr racing.

Have you done tank shell, catalyst 3/4 upper, chopped the subframe, carbon fiber wheels, ceramic bearings, etc.? I'm just saying I wouldn't hack up the wiring harness if you haven't done the big weight savers first.

Your text to link here...
key eliminator
no hacking and works great

"(Note - Harness for stock Run/Stop switch is not recommended for use with headlights or radiator fan as this switch can only handle 15 amps)"

Does this mean:
A) Do not connect this harness to your headlights switch. Do not connect this harness to your radiator fan switch. Use Only engine Run/Stop switch?

OR

B) Do not use this harness to turn headlights or radiator fan On/Off with engine Run/Stop switch.

OR

C) Do not run headlights or radiator fan if this switch is connected to the engine Run/Stop switch.

?

"(Note - Harness for stock Run/Stop switch is not recommended for use with headlights or radiator fan as this switch can only handle 15 amps)"

Does this mean:
A) Do not connect this harness to your headlights switch. Do not connect this harness to your radiator fan switch. Use Only engine Run/Stop switch?

OR

B) Do not use this harness to turn headlights or radiator fan On/Off with engine Run/Stop switch.

OR

C) Do not run headlights or radiator fan if this switch is connected to the engine Run/Stop switch.

You worry to much

(A) I,ve run one for years on the run stop switch without issue

(B) I may blow a fuse so what i've got spares

(C) If i fry the run stop switch i've got spares and if not they are $3.00 on ebay

(D) OH yes and D it sure is nice not having to use keys to turn bike on or get into the gas tank
keyless gas cap
hehehe

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 1/31/2017 @ 4:50 PM *

Maverick, I've done some work on the subframe, I'm thinking of having a flatter subframe made for the bike, and a custom seat to work with a catalyst tank. I have ceramic bearings, smaller battery, new sprockets, lightened custom rear brake, all rubber blankets and insulation removed, titanium exhaust with custom mount, short velocity stacks, new race air filter, shaved tail, lightened axle adjuster, cut axle, aluminum sprocket nuts, ti rotor bolts, keyless gas cap, lightened/removed brackets, lots of aluminum/titanium bolts. In the process of replacing all the brake lines. Working on levers, lightened clutch components, slipper delete, stiffer springs, lighter bars..
I'm debating whether to go with a new body, or new wheels and tires for standing mile/lsr/roll racing.
Also working on a lightened triple, custom steering damper, electric water pump, lowered/strapped suspension.
Next step will be woolich tuning/quickshifter wideband datalogger.

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 1/31/2017 @ 5:41 PM *

You worry to much
(A) I,ve run one for years on the run stop switch without issue
(B) I may blow a fuse so what i've got spares
(C) If i fry the run stop switch i've got spares and if not they are $3.00 on ebay
(D) OH yes and D it sure is nice not having to use keys to turn bike on or get into the gas tank
keyless gas cap
hehehe

So go with the Run/Stop Switch harness if you want an easy kill lanyard. I think I'll go with my own 30 amp switch. If you can use a lanyard on the Run/Kill switch, I don't see why you couldn't with any other switch. I'm getting rid of those control pods someday anyway.

Texas mile specifically requires a lanyard type switch OTHER THAN attaching something to stock run/kill

Texas mile specifically requires a lanyard type switch OTHER THAN attaching something to stock run/kill

Then per texas mile rules this is what you must have

That looks like a winner

How are the pmr switches better than the links that I was asking About?
The Schnitz EZ kill switch requires no wiring mods, and is plug and play..

How are the pmr switches better than the links that I was asking About?

i don't think they are any better just a matter of price and which one you want to use. only thing i do know is that after some use the push pull plug contacts starts getting worn and sometimes kill the bike from vibration

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 2/1/2017 @ 2:31 PM *

I used to worry about tapping into stock wiring. I don't have a problem with the idea of soldering in connectors now. After 9 years, it's my bike, not the next owner's. I'm not going to get any money for it. Might as well have it how I want it.

I'll never get any money for the mods I'm doing, but at least most things -so far at least- wouldn't be hard to undo. I'll reroute the kickstand kill wiring and shorten the tether kill switch wiring to minimize everything as much as possible. It's nice to be able to just plug in the kill switch instead of cutting and soldering everything together.

Plug and Play's nice but when you get into self tuning and boost or NOS, it's pretty tough to avoid tapping a wire here and there. I wouldn't pass on a mod that required posi-taps at this point. Avoid T-taps that cut into the wire like a guillotine. They sometimes don't make good contact or might cut too deep in the wire. Any of these i would just solder bullet connectors on eventually anyway...or contacts held by a screw--something more stable than a posi-tap. When it comes time to sell, if that day ever comes, break out the soldering gun and heat shrink insulation.

The Woolich Data logging/Flashing is very nice CoolBreeze. You won't regret that purchase.

Thanks Mav. Just waiting for them to come out with their quickshifter so we can get one order/install. They say it should be ready by May..

Ah yeah. I'm still using the fuel kill function with my PCV. I make small fuel trims with the PC when I don't want to flash the ECU at the track.