Hi all, I am building a lotus 7 replica powered by a 2008 zzr 1400 turbo and have struck a problem with the wiring. Firstly, does anyone know if the motor will run without the instrument cluster connected ( my motor came from a crashed bike and the cluster was gone.
Secondly, I cannot get the ecu to run the fuel pump or spark on power up...it will crank OK. I have checked the tip over sensor, so suspect it is to do with the safety interlocks on the side stand and clutch lever.
Pin 40 on the ecu is the starter lock out, so if the bike is in neutral, it will crank no matter what the voltage is on this pin.
Pin 53 is from the side stand, from my reading of the wiring diagram, it should be grounded with the side stand up.

Does this seem correct?

Any other thoughts why there is no go on this motor? I’ve been over the wiring throughly....

Thanks for your thoughts.

Lets call the ECU as the brain, the dash cluster is to delegate, and the telemetry is to execute. All I can say is... someone could not get their computer bike started. Once they changed out the dash the bike fired up.

Next point... the wiring harness should not be tampered with and this means each wire from brain-to cluster-to telemetry-and the harness itself. Call this the spinal cord(s) to communicate. So to place said computer bike engine into said vehicle, you transfer the wire harness and everything attached to it that needs 5v. Things like 12v lights and winkers are not 5v so they can be eliminated if not transferred to street compliance.

Stop chasing your tail unless you rather jump a wire to make it start. That's time reading the wiring diagram and that may turn out to be a dead end... but I doubt it if you know a competent EE or computer wiz kid.

Say it needs a ground or a complete circuit to work. So with stand down, ground is disconnected. To return to a complete circuit, take a paperclip and make contact at the wire harness side of the pins and create a kickstand up connection. If it fired up, maybe that's all it took. If not, back to the dash... if it acts like the other brand bike that is not one of the big4 that I referenced to.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/24/2019 @ 9:05 PM *

Ok, can I ask anyone here with. Zzr 1400 to unplug the cluster and try to start the bike? Thanks.

I've never built a race car with a ZX14 engine, but don't they make
Racing ECU's/wiring packages specifically for building race bikes/etc with ZX14
engines that would handle everything you need including many optional things too, like
boost control, traction control, tons of logging features, gauge cluster, and much
more besides just handling engine management.

Probably not cheap, but seems like the way to go.

* Last updated by: piken on 6/25/2019 @ 11:29 AM *

Did you paperclip the kickstand switch on the harness yet and try that?

Yes, tried that.

I have aPC5, ignition module and autotune to sort the ecu once it’s running...

Id bet there is some processing going on and digital coming out the Speedo cluster that without yo are rat fucking the ECU. Buy a used one off ebay and maybe get lucky. The wiring diagram is a must have as Hubster said but without schematics you will never get from Kawi, could be a long hard problem to solve even with competent engineering input on the digital signals.

I have the full workshop manual with wiring diagram....

When turned on, does the pin for 12v into the ECU show hot? For 0-5v to work, an IC (integrated chip) converts 12v to 5v. So seeing 12v going into the ECU is normal. Backprobe means to take racing/aircraft safety wire, stab the weatherpac rubber at the back of the connector, keep jamming that safety wire in until you think you touched the end of the wire. We see 12v at the pin going into the ECU?

So far I have checked all the wiring and confirmed voltage at the ecu, both switched and un-switched... all correct.
Sidestand (green/white) wire grounded. Bike in neutral, will crank, but will not start the fuel pump or provide spark.
Tip over sensor voltages correct as per manual.

Need to know if it will run without the cluster plugged in, then can investigate further...

Thanks.

I have decided to go to full aftermarket ECU, so see the trade topic for all my power commander stuff, all came from running bike, so in good working order.
Pc5 PTI, ign module, autotune and new lcd.

Bike runs with or without cluster. Inquiring minds want to know.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xusVhzjbbn8&feature=youtu.be

Thanks for that....

No spark no pump means a ground source, right? Is this the original stock wire harness that came with the engine? Any wires tampered with, meaning, a cut wire to run the pc components? Did you try direct ground off one of the sparkstick wires, a remote ground off the pump too?

Was the stock harness, I could make the pump run by grounding the control wire, there were volts at the coils, but the ecu still wouldn't work. Tried a second ecu, still no good. Spent 4 days trouble shooting this....

Thanks for all the suggestions and help on this, but for a number of reasons, I have decided to run an aftermarket ecu.
It makes fuel, ignition and boost control much easier than doing all through a power commanderand ignition module, and I still had no way of knowing if the stock ecu had gone in to one of its limp modes, and whether I had any fault codes etc.

Cheers,
7ishnz

You could tow the car to a dealer and have them read any codes going on. There are a number of limps that would still make the engine run. Swapping to another ECU says it's not the ECU. Crank sensor to a computer car or bike is the difference between a running engine and a boat anchor. ECU is next. I'd take a flat style screwdriver, slip that between the crank sensor and a tone wheel tang; make contact and break contact at those two points, pull a sparkstick, stick a spark plug in it, ground the plug and watch for spark with key on. Which now makes me think if you do not have the handlebar switches that came with the harness, might a jump pin (paperclip) be needed to make the kill switch complete a circuit?