I bought a brand new headlight bracket and the bracket that bolts to the frame, I have been looking threw some of the how to threads on here and it looks like I may be missing some parts still. I can post pics of where I am stuck and any help would be greatly appreciated.
I haven't removed headlights yet. All I have is this photo. I would check the parts fiche on bikebandit or some other oem parts supplier.
Go ahead and put up pics though. someone might know what you might be missing.
I found this site Schnitz racing and they can flash my ecu and claim as long as there are no other mods that I would not need a power commander to adjust fuel since they would flash the ecu to accept the exhaust and k and n filter I am going to install.
You can trust Schnitz. I thought they just did a basic flash without fueling or timing for $75 but if they have expanded their repertoire since then, go for it. The only way a PC5 could help is if you are riding at an altitude over 1000 feet different than the Schnitz flash. I don;t know the exact altitude where you would start to need refinements. My base map was about 1000 lower than where I ride but there was no huge change after tuning with the PC5.
You can always add a PC5 and Wideband2 later if you want but don't use a map in there on top of a flash. Use the Wideband2 to adjust fueling. It's quite an involved process but if you like to fiddle with electronics, that will do it for you. I have a tutorial so you can see what you'd be getting yourself into. Otherwise, just get another flash and skip the PC5 if you change pipes or something. Another option is to get the Schnitz basic flash without fueling and put a PC5 in. Then you could ask them to send you their map and you could try other map if you like without the complication of already having fueling flashed.
I am considering going with HID headlights any kit suggestions? I am worried about ballast size if I did all four lights.
Don't know about the headlights ballasts but the ones I have for my Illumiglo gauge faces weigh about a pound. They are each about 6" x 1" x 3/4". Mount to the ram air cover bracket on each side of the multifunction meter.
The other thing is I would like to go with led turn signals, already have the mirrors with led's built in and was going to change the bulbs in the rear section to led's. Instead of going with the 6 ohm resistors I have read there is an alternative where you can change the blinker module to one thats meant for led's any suggestions there?
Nope, sorry. I plan on trying cheap turn signals from Alliexpress. The LED specific setup sounds like a wise precaution. I think I have read that LEDs can burn fuses if you forget to turn one off.
my stator cover was damaged so I bought a chrome one, is it hard to change the stator over, again some of the vids I have seen scare me a little because it appears if you get that off by just a little your bike is not going to run.
Never removed my 14's stator cover but I did remove my busa's and that is the same process. If you are going to remove the entire wire (which is a nice thing to do because there is not much slack once you get the cover off), it is a lot of work to dig your way to the connector lead. Then you have the cover off, you need to remove the stator coil and that sucker is bolted in there tight. ...so that is why it's nice to have the wire disconnected so you can take the cover and coil and set it on a bench to break the three bolts that hold it in. Then you remove the retainer for the wire from inside of the cover. Switch all over to the new cover.
here's my busa tutorial on the org. the 14 is very similar
There is no concern about getting anything off kilter. The generator coil is stationary and the drum, you will not even need to remove but I do not think there is anything to align there either. It just spins around the coil and the magnetic sensor gets a signal every time it makes one revolution.
What you need to watch for is getting your fingers snapped. The magnetic force is very strong and requires a reasonable amount of force to pull it off. Once you get it separated a quarter inch, no problem but if you let it drop back it will clap down hard enough to rip your skin off. They sometimes use a puller for safety.
Is this a chrome stator cover you bought or is it a plastic chrome cover that goes on the OEM cover? The cover on a cover does not require that you remove the OEM cover. I think they go on with double sided tape.
If the OEM cover is not broken, I would just leave it on and sand/spray it.
* Last updated by: Rook on 4/1/2017 @ 7:58 AM *
08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE ZX-14 Now Deceased, will be resurected
2024 ZX-14R bran friggin NEW!