Nice progress. I like how you mounted the rife sensors with the little brackets

Danmin,

Thank you, I’ve spent quite a few hours figuring out where I want to mount things and making brackets.

• Designed, machined, powder coated, and installed a co2 tank bracket.
• Designed and 3D printed an inner fender for the rear wheel.
• Formed and installed co2 tank line from the regulator to the solenoids.
• Installed the radiator.
• Installed AS3 radiator hoses.
• Installed heat shielding sleeves on all of the plastic wastegate lines.
• Fabricated and installed a lower radiator support bracket.
• Started working on installing the intercooler kit.
• Trimmed the plastic on the lower triple tree to make clearance for the intercooler heat exchanger.
• Modified the horn bracket to move the horn forward so it doesn’t hit the intercooler heat exchanger.
• Machined the shift lever to enable mounting the quick shifter.
• Machined a mount for the translogic quick shifter.

I wanted a co2 tank bracket that would work with multiple size co2 tanks, have additional support at the top for added strength and durability for street use, and have an inner fender mount integrated into it. Obviously there is nothing like that available to buy so I designed and manufactured my own bracket system.

I started working on installing the intercooler kit but I’m waiting on some new led headlights to show up so I can install them before I install it as I would need to remove the intercooler to be able to install the left headlight.

When I purchased my maxxecu and wiring harness from boosted by smith I also purchased a translogic quick shifter from him. Up to that point I hadn’t done any research into compatible quick shifters for the zx14. When I finally got around to installing the quick shifter I discovered that the translogic quick shifter is designed to be integrated into shifter linkage which presents a problem with the zx14 as it doesn’t have any shifter linkage. Initially I decided to purchase a healtech quick shifter but after thinking about it a little bit I came up with an idea that may work to mount the translogic quick shifter on the zx14. I still have some work to do on it to get it to the final version.

I would like to retain the translogic quick shifter as it’s integrated with the max ecu and involves plugging in one connector and tuning through the maxxecu where the healtech quick shifter wouldn’t be integrated with the maxxecu and would require installing an additional wiring harness.

Impressive engineering and work as is the blower motor in the background of the intercooler picture, BBC??

Fordtech,

Thank you, yes it’s a BBC. The car is a 67 nova.

Absolutely beautiful! You're no stranger to high end builds!!

• Purchased a 20lb co2 tank with a siphon tube for filling my smaller tank that will be used on the bike.
• Filled the engine with driven br40 break in oil.
• Filled the coolant system with redline supercool coolant.
• Installed the battery.
• Installed the fuel tank.
• Filled the 2.5lb co2 tank.
• Installed the co2 tank on the bike.
• Filled the fuel tank with around a gallon of fuel.
• Ran the fuel pump with the fuel lines routed into a container to clean out the fuel lines.
• Set the fuel pressure to 43 psi.
• Set the co2 pressure to 35psi.
• Installed led headlights.
• Installed the intercooler.
• Started the bike.
• Made a few adjustments to the map with some help from Greg @ Boosted by smith to get the neutral light to work and to get the bike to idle.
• Designed and 3d printed a pressure testing tool.
• Pressure tested the airbox.
• Installed intercooler hoses and water pump.
• Installed a waterproof 2 pin connector for the intercooler water pump so it can be easily removed if needed.

The last week working on the bike has been a case of take one step forward and three back. When I put fuel in the tank two of the AN fittings on the line from the tank to the fuel pump inlet started leaking. I had them tight, but they had to be really tight to get them to quit leaking. Then when I cycled the fuel pump the fitting on the outlet of the fuel pump started leaking so I had to tighten that one as well.

When I started the bike I didn’t have any fuel or oil leaks but I could feel air hitting me in the face from around the air cleaner block off plate. So I took it off, went to the mill and took off .025” from the mating surface under the bolts so I could get it to squeeze the oring a little harder. Well, it leaked less but it wasn’t anywhere near acceptable. I checked the frame and it turns out the mating surface the oring contacts is not flat so I ended up putting some right stuff gasket maker on it. That fixed that leak, but then I discovered air was leaking around the bolts that hold the secondary fuel rail in place and around the heads of the bolts that plug a couple holes in the airbox. So I’ve applied some more right stuff gasket maker to those areas in the airbox to hopefully fix those leaks.

Then, when I removed the injector connectors so I could gain better access to the inside of the airbox I discovered that one of the injector wires was loose and came out of the connector. So I pulled the connector apart, got the terminal out, opened it up, re installed the wire, crimped it properly, and re assembled the connector. I was extremely lucky that I found that loose wire as that definitely would have been a problem on the dyno and easily could have led to a blown up engine. I checked the rest of the wires to make sure they were tight.

I ordered all of the led lights from ddm tuning. I ordered two 75w kits, one 40w kit, and one 30w kit which I was able to get as a free gift. I wanted to see if I could get a 40w light to fit on the left side but it didn’t fit so I ended up having to use a 30w led on the left side. Even with the 30w light it was tight as the connector hits the intercooler a little bit. The three 75w led lights have led drivers in the wires so I ended up mounting them to the top of the headlight housing using some 3m double sided tape.

On the intercooler pump, I removed the plastic housing with the inlet and outlet and rotated it to position the wire connector to come out towards the right side. The left side is pretty congested with the intercooler and wiring over there so I wanted to go to the right side with the water pump wiring. Then I tapped into the small led running light and added a 2 pin waterproof connector so the pump can easily be removed if needed.

If your RTV leaks. Use JB WELD TankWeld. That's how i sealed up my airbox. It's held up for the past year. One day I'll have it all welded up.

I used the nice LED bulbs on the center lights and just color-matched low-profile halogen bulbs on the outside lights. I also swapped the highs/lows so the bright ones were always on

* Last updated by: danmin on 4/4/2026 @ 11:49 AM *

I have some of the jb tank weld if I need it. I’m hoping I don’t have to use that as it would be a lot harder to remove.

Hey Bryan, great thread and nice custom bracketry (sp). Have a couple questions. First what degree did you adjust your cams to? I think I did 105 and 107 degrees but, never want to do that again. Also, can you explain more about the dome pressure sensors?

Thanks,
Rick

Rspauldi,

Here’s a picture of what I did with the cams. The dome pressure sensor is used for boost control with the maxxecu.

• Sealed up all of the air leaks in the airbox.
• Installed a P14S lithium battery from full spectrum power.
• Removed the translogic quick shifter.
• Installed a healtech quick shifter.
• Took the bike for the first ride.
• Designed a boost gauge mount.
• Installed the gauge mount along with a boost gauge.
• Designed and installed a smaller co2 tank valve handle for improved clearance.
• Installed a usb charger with a built in voltage meter.

After about a week of chasing airbox leaks I finally got it sealed up. Almost every bolt that went into the airbox leaked, the air cleaner block off plate leaked and the hoses on the idle air control valve leaked. I was able to seal everything up with the right stuff permatex gasket maker. I used fuel injection clamps on the hoses that were leaking instead of zip ties.

The agm battery that came with the bike was struggling so I installed the lithium battery from full spectrum power. The agm battery is rated at around 200 cranking amps and the full spectrum battery is rated at around 700. Needless to say the bike cranks over and starts a lot better now.

Unfortunately, I was not able to make the translogic quick shifter work with my mounting setup. The shifter takes a lot of force to trigger it and with my setup it would take some very stiff springs to generate enough force to trigger the quick shifter so I decided to remove it and install the healtech quick shifter. The problem with the healtech quick shifter is the sensor mounts under the shift lever bolt like a washer and the bolt can’t be too tight or it won’t work. So in order to make it work I had to hammer the shift lever gap closed so it fit on the shifter shaft very tightly, then when I installed the bolt and quick shifter sensor I could just snug the bolt up and the shift lever would still fit tightly on the shifter shaft. After getting that sorted out I was able to get it calibrated and during the two test rides I did it worked great.

I finally took the bike for its first ride for me and with the turbo setup. The ride went okay and I didn’t have any major issues. The speedometer didn’t work correctly but Greg was able to fix that in the maxxecu. The blow off valve didn’t work due to the spring being too stiff. I have a few springs so I put a softer one in. The co2 tank valve handle rubbed on the tail section undertray slightly, so I designed, 3D printed and installed a much smaller handle to hopefully fix that problem.

I wanted to get a boost gauge on the bike. I looked at some nicer autometer gauges but just couldn’t really decide on one so for now I just put a cheap glow shift gauge on the bike. It’s hard to beat them for the money as they come with a gauge, hose, fittings, hose clamps, and wiring where an autometer gauge only comes with the gauge and costs twice as much.

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 4/2/2026 @ 4:54 AM *

Hey Bryan, I really love the gauge mount and see it could work on either side. Do you happen to sell the mounts or would you? I'd have to confirm my clearances first but would be interested if they'd work. My bike is track only but you'll see in the picture I'll attach it's a bit crowded. It would be most helpful to be able to see my neutral light again. I've got a small fiber optic cable coming off it but it's nearly useless in the daytime.

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 4/2/2026 @ 9:24 AM *

Fordtech58,

I can make one or two for you. Eventually I will make a batch and sell them on my website. From front to back they’re about 1” long. Here’s a picture from the side.

That would be awesome and I'd be happy to Paypal you for time, material and shipping. I just saw in your previous picture with the mount on the green grid board the mount appears to be 2 5/16 at the base? My gauges are 2 1/16 though your mount looks to be reduced where the gauge inserts on the top? No rush just let me know when you can possibly get them done and if they're compatible with my gauges. My zip is 71111

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 4/3/2026 @ 6:45 AM *

Those gauge brackets are really cool! I had dreams of squashing three gauges to the left and three to the right on my Gen1 (complete with warning lights! ). I believe two on each side might be possible, three would be really pushing it. ...but if you don't have ram air tubes, maybe...?

This is just a photo mockup I came up with. I got as far mounting a water temp to the left handlebar and an oil pressure to the right. ...not an ideal setup because of handlebar movement/wire connectors. ...also, these gauges are small and match the Gen1 speedo/tach well but the connector that goes into the gauge is complete crap. I would have to figure out some way to keep it plugged in if I were to use these in my dash. In dash is SO the way to go if you can figure out a way to do it. Bryan, you da man!

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/3/2026 @ 9:48 AM *

+1 to the list of interested parties for the gauge mount.

I’ve been working on making some improvements to the gauge mount. When I’m happy with it I will let you guys know. They’re designed to work with 2 1/16” diameter gauges.

Rook,

I can definitely make a gauge mount setup with four pods similar to your photo. There are some things to consider though. The biggest thing is I don’t know if they will fit the same on a gen 1. The photo looks kind of cool but I think the cleanest and best looking setup would be with two gauges. With four you will have to do a lot of trimming on the plastic. Zetronix makes some decent dual display gauges you may want to check out. On my gen 1 I had a couple of dual display gauges on it and they worked well. Keeps things nice and clean and it’s easier to see the data from the gauges. If you’re really set on the four gauge setup I can put a prototype kit together for you.

Here’s a photo of how from my gen 1 when I had a couple dual display gauges on it.

The biggest thing is I don’t know if they will fit the same on a gen 1. The photo looks kind of cool but I think the cleanest and best looking setup would be with two gauges. With four you will have to do a lot of trimming on the plastic.

I was thinking I would need to fiberglass some custom ram air covers to make three gauges on each side work, maybe even just two. It wouldn't be only a bracket that would be needed but a whole different ram air cover that most likelyy would serve as the anchoring points for the gauges.

I have a Gen2 now. I lost the Gen1. I can't stop thinking about it so I'm definitely looking for a replacement. Still have the wreck of my 08 as a parts bike.

Thanks Bryan, I'll keep an eye out and will be ready whenever you are!

I’ve made some changes to the gauge mounts and I’m finally happy enough with them to sell them. I’ve added an angle to the screw hole and shoulder to improve the mounting angle, I’ve changed the screw over to a countersunk flat head screw which looks nice, but was also necessary due to the new angle of the screw hole, I adjusted the shape of the mounting tab slightly, and I designed a insert that can be used to find the center of the hole and center a drill bit for a pilot hole. Since the mounting surface of the gauge mount is now angled they will be side specific. Each gauge mount is labeled with a R or L on the back side to designate which side it goes on. It’s also worth noting that you can install the gauge mount from the top or bottom of the hole in the plastic so once you install your gauge in the holder you don’t have to completely remove the gauge every time you need to remove the plastic.

I have decided I will sell the gauge mounts as a kit on my website as sets of two as this will help make it worth my time to sell them. Each kit will include a left and right gauge mount, two bolts, a drill bit centering insert and thread locker. I haven’t settled on a price yet for my website but I’m thinking around $75 -$100 per kit. The gauge mounts are made out of ABS-CF filament. This material is durable, lightweight, visually appealing, and has good temperature resistance.

I also designed a dual gauge holder. I’m still working on perfecting that setup yet. The back of the gauge holders have to be quite a bit longer and it requires additional clamps to secure the second gauge holder to the main gauge holder.

I have a few kits ready to go for anyone who is ready to buy one. Just contact me at my email or phone number below.

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 4/6/2026 @ 11:26 PM *

• Installed a new hotshot stator from Rick’s.
• Installed a new voltage regulator.
• Installed a gauge holder on the left side.
• Installed a gps gauge on the left side.
• Designed, 3D printed, and installed a cell phone holder.
• Installed a cell phone to be used for the maxxecu Mdash app.
• Installed Fuji lock nuts on the header.
• Put about 50 miles on the bike.
• Tightened the chain.
• Cleaned the bike.
• Picked up some One Ethanol E85S.
• Made an appointment for dyno tuning.

I noticed the bike wasn’t charging very well so I ordered a new stator and regulator. After I installed the new parts it didn’t charge any better so I did a bunch of testing and troubleshooting and discovered that the 75w lights were drawing too much for the charging system to overcome. I installed some 40w lights and that took care of that issue.

I ordered a new Samsung s22 ultra with the intention of mounting it on the bike and using it to run the maxxecu Mdash app. The phone cost under $300 on eBay and makes it possible to monitor a lot of data as well as data log without trying to mount a bunch of gauges on the bike.

After I got the charging issue figured out and the phone mounted on the bike I installed the plastic and went for a ride and put about 50 miles on. Everything seemed to work okay, only issue I had was the header nuts came loose again so I installed some Fuji lock nuts.

I think it’s finally ready for dyno tuning, so I made an appointment at Ryan Schnitz Racing for next week. I tested e85 at a few of the gas stations here and the best I found was e75 so I decided to buy some One Ethanol E85S for the dyno.

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 4/19/2026 @ 7:59 PM *

How much power are you going to ask for

I loaded everything up on Sunday, drove from Minnesota to Indiana on Monday, had the bike on the dyno by 8am Tuesday, finished up on the dyno around noon, loaded the bike back up, drove home, and ended up getting back home around 11pm.

The drive down to Indiana went pretty good. The gps routed me along the outskirts of Chicago so that helped a lot. Spent the night at the quality in hotel in Decatur. Hotel was okay. They had a couple security cameras out front so I parked the truck in front of them and covered the bike with a cheap bike cover I bought from Amazon. Tuesday I made it to Ryan Schnitz Racing around 7:30am. It’s in the middle of town and they don’t have a unloading ramp so I put a couple blocks of wood in front of the truck and drove it up on them to lower the rear enough that the bike wouldn’t bottom out when I unloaded it.

I got the bike unloaded about the time Ryan showed up, had a talk with him about what was done to the bike, what I wanted him to do and let him get to it. I asked him to focus on making the bike rideable, focus on the ride ability and not worry about peak hp numbers. I explained the different types of riding I would be doing and that I wanted the bike to work well for all of them.

On pump gas the bike made around 350whp at 15psi of boost. We switched to the E85 and he spent a fair amount of time getting it dialed in. When he went to do a pull with 15psi of boost the clutch started slipping around 7k to 9k rpm so I ended up making around 370whp on E85. Pulled the bike off the dyno, loaded it up, and started driving home. This time the gps routed me right through the middle of Chicago so that was painful. Took about a hour to get through Chicago.

I got the bike unloaded today, drained the break in oil out, added an additional washer to each arm on the lockup clutch, filled the bike with redline oil, installed a new oil filter, changed the front and rear tires, and installed some voodoo cush drive dampers. I have a set of plastic and a fuel tank that are in better shape than what the bike came with so I’m going to try and get them installed tomorrow and then the bike will be ready to ride.

Danmin,

I don’t ask tuners to try to reach a power goal. I asked him to work on the rideability and to keep the tune safe. I was expecting to make around 350 on pump gas and 400 on e85. I think I would have met my expectation on e85 if the clutch didn’t slip. With the tune I have if I can turn the boost up to reach that 400whp mark, I just need to get the clutch to hold.