This past weekend I switched to one of the new oil-less turbos and will keep an eye on how it effected temps - I removed all the oil lines so no longer have oil running through the hot turbo, but it now has coolant lines so I'm curious if that evens out, or gives me a bit better temps. I ran it after the cooler so it goes straight from turbo housing to radiator - super easy with our setups due to the oil cooler lines being right there for ez access.

I'd be curious how intake air temps are different between setups.

On paper it should be less backpressure and lower intake charge temps since its larger and puts me closer to the lower left center of the compressor map - I can check some data logs to see how it compares, I'm sure Woolich shows both internal and external air temps so even though ambient will be different from different day logs, we can still see the temp spread. Biggest gains vs the small turbos like GT28 or TD04 sized stuff would be waaaay higher efficiency and lower charge temps at high RPMs.

I will say the dual ceramic bearings are awesome - the exh turbine spins waaay faster at idle than it did on my old school journal bearing turbo even though its a larger wheel, and transient response (how fast it makes more boost when already making boost) is definitely faster. Initial spool did get pushed back ~200rpm, but thats no big deal. I was expecting 300-500rpm later based on chatgpt estimates...but thats always a gamble on accuracy anyway. It seems to make positive boost around 3500rpm now, but I have yet to launch it in anger yet so might be a little earlier than that when getting on it. The TD05 I had prior hit positive boost around 3k rpm stock, and with the extended tip billet compressor was starting spooling around 32-3300.

I just finished it yesterday so very little driving on it so far, so I'm still seeing how it does. I can't leave well enough alone, its my 3rd or 4th turbo setup in 6mos lol.

* Last updated by: Puck on 5/19/2026 @ 2:28 PM *

you ought to make a thread and take some pictures. curious how it all looks. current and past setups.

I may do that when I have some free time. I have tons of (crappy) pics from along the way.

Puck,

Definitely interested to see how that new turbo works for you.

• Designed, machined, and installed a tank mount GoPro mount.
• Designed, printed and installed a new co2 tank aero attachment. I think this is the fourth one now.
• Cleaned the fuel filter.
• Installed a zero gravity wind screen.
• Designed, machined and installed a shift lever assembly.
• Designed and installed a new tail tidy kit.
• Installed a new radiator with new fans.
• Installed a softer spring in the rear shock.
• Installed a 41 tooth rear sprocket.
• Installed APE trac king clutch plates.
• Installed brake tech 330mm rotors.
• Installed titanium brake caliper bolts.
• Installed black anodized aluminum caliper spacers.
• Installed ricks voltage regulator as the other one died.

The last week has been insane. I’ve been dealing with some quality issues on a large order of parts which has been a nightmare. Then the voltage regulator died on me and I didn’t notice it until the battery light came on. At that point it was too late as the voltage was down to 10 volts. I made it about 5 blocks before the bike died. Surprisingly it ran all the way down to 7 volts! Ended up getting a ride home from a friend, grabbed the truck, loaded it up and hauled it home. The voltage regulator died and the potting/epoxy on the back cracked and expanded so it was pretty obvious what the problem was. I swapped the stator out as well for now just to be safe. I’ll test it and put a new connector and terminals on it and throw it back in at some point. I also cut the plug off the OEM stator harness that goes from the side of the fuel tank to the regulator and extended it so I can swap stators without removing the fuel tank.

I got really tired of the warped brake rotor so I called brake tech and got them to put a 330mm rotor kit together for me. It turns out the 330mm kits are all they had in stock for the zx14. The kit comes with plain bolts and spacers which really stand out and look like crap so I ordered some black anodized aluminum spacers and black titanium bolts for the calipers.

The GoPro mount I made swivels so you can move the camera to the side which allows you to be able to tuck down without hitting the camera. I had a similar setup on my last zx14.

I wanted a little more wind protection so I installed a little taller zero gravity wind screen. I was a little disappointed with the surface quality of the windscreen. It had a bunch of micro scratches in it and it wasn’t nice and clear. Really bugged me! So I sat there and polished it with some plastic polish for a hour and got it looking pretty good.

I ordered a 39 tooth sprocket which I suspected would possibly require shortening the chain when I ordered it and sure enough it did, so I ordered a 41 tooth sprocket to try before I commit to shortening the chain. I also ordered a new master link so I’m ready if I do decide to shorten it.

When I ride I wear my steel toe work boots which have a defined heel. Well that forces my foot to sit back a little ways and makes it hard to get a good position on the shifter toe peg so I made a new shifter assembly which has some up and down adjustment as well as front to back adjustment for the toe peg. So far it’s been working good and has made shifting a lot easier.

The MTC clutch plates/steels have been pissing me off. For some reason if the bike has sat for a day or so when I go to put it in gear for the first time it will kill the engine even with the clutch lever pulled in. I could get around it if I revved the engine up but I don’t always remember. Well the other day the neighbor had a big party and I went to take off, killed it and looked like an idiot. That was it! After that I ordered the ape clutch plates/steels.

I installed the new radiator which came with a new set of OEM fans so I decided to just leave the OEM fans on it for now and see how they work. I have a couple of the Schnitz fans but I didn’t want to deal with trying to install them and rewire them so I decided to leave the OEM fans on it for now. So far it seems to be working good. I let it run in the garage for 10-15 minutes and the fans would bring the temp down to 180 repeatedly. With the old radiator it would get well into the 200’s. We will see how it does when we get some warmer weather here.

I finally had a chance to go for a short ride today before it rained again. The new clutch works great. It feels a lot like the MTC clutch and seems to be similar in the way it engages. The brakes no longer pulse when I use them so that’s awesome. I haven’t had a chance to go properly bed them in so I haven’t hammered on them to hard yet. The rear spring is better but it’s a little stiff yet. I will pull some preload off it and see if that helps. The shifter works much better for me. I need to make some small adjustments with the tune yet. When I shift unless I’m beating on the bike I just let of the throttle to shift and don’t use the clutch. Well right now it goes pretty rich and stumbles a little bit when I let off to shift. It’s pretty minor but it’s bugging me. I made some adjustments today which helped but it’s not quite perfect yet.

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 5/24/2026 @ 10:47 PM *

No issues with the -1 T rear sprocket? I've read threads about using a larger rear sprocket interfering with TC. I'd have thought using a smaller sprocket would do the same thing.

Awesome, glad to see the temps under control!

Rook,

I just turned traction control on a couple weeks ago and it works good with the maxx ecu. I setup 5 different tcs maps with different levels of wheel slip which is controlled using ignition cut. I also setup a boost map which will pull boost based on wheel slip but I haven’t had a chance to test that yet.

• Trimmed a little bit off the back of the front fender to prevent it from hitting the radiator.
• Trimmed a little bit off the front of the chain guard to prevent it from hitting the subframe.
• Installed a couple front brake caliper air ducts.
• Installed a cheap turbo blanket from Amazon.
• Fixed a couple oil leaks.
• Removed links out of the chain and moved the rear tire forward about 2 inches to improve traction.
• Installed a dragy on the bike so I can see if my adjustments are helping.
• Ordered another shinko hookup drag tire.
• Disconnected the healtech quick shifter.
• Ordered a mps air shifter kit. Haven’t had time to install it yet.
• Ordered a wire harness from Greg for the air shifter.
• Finished making ride ability adjustments to the fuel table for pump gas. Still need to work on e85.
• Setup rolling launch control/antilag on the maxx ecu.
• Turned on traction control and setup tcs tables.
• Setup boost tables that specify target boost for each gear based on rpm. Still working on dialing them in.

I’ve been super busy taking care of things with the business lately so I haven’t had much free time to mess with the bike. I was cleaning it and I noticed the chain guard had hit the rear subframe so I trimmed a little off the front. Then I was looking things over and I noticed the front fender had hit the radiator a couple times so I trimmed a little off that as well.

The majority of the work I’ve been doing on the bike lately has been tune related. I kept noticing that after every shift the boost would drop for a noticeable amount of time and it was pissing me off so I started digging into that and figured out that the healtech quick shifter was causing the problem. I suspect the reason for it is because it wasn’t wired through and killing the ignition through the maxxecu, but instead it was working separate from the ecu so when I would shift it would kill the ignition and the ecu would see a loss of ignition and pull boost. After discovering this I ordered an air shifter and had Greg make a wiring harness for me to make the installation as easy as possible.

After I got the shifter thing sorted out I noticed I still wasn’t hitting my boost target in 2nd gear. So I looked through data logs and discovered that the ecu was registering neutral multiple times through a second gear pull. I was able to make some adjustments to the gear values to correct that. Currently in neutral the display will flicker between 2nd gear and neutral so I still need to adjust it a little bit. Once I get the boost tables dialed in I will play with that some more.

I setup rolling launch control. This feature is pretty cool. It will hold the rpm and build boost at the same time. I was able to set it up in the maxx ecu so it works by using the down button on the left switch gear. This took a little help from Greg to get it configured properly. Then the tricky part was coming up with some settings for the launch control. I did some searching on google and came up with some settings I felt were fairly conservative. I also sent an email to Richard at rcc but he was super busy and wasn’t able to get back to me with any settings. So far what I’ve been using seems to be working okay.

I’ve also been playing around with boost by gear settings and boost ramping a lot. I had some luck getting it to work with a simple x amount of boost per gear with x ramping per gear but I decided to try something more precise and see how it works. I set up new boost tables that have a target boost based on rpm and gear. I also have boost ramping still turned on for each gear and I have one boost table that has an additional map that will pull boost based on wheel slip. That’s where I’m at right now so I have some work to do to get those tables dialed in.

I’ve just started working on dialing in the boost tables so I still have a lot of work to do. Currently in 2nd gear I can’t go wot until about 9-10k without spinning bad and 3rd gear hooks most of the time after a shift if it’s not spinning in 2nd.

I also turned on traction control and setup 5 different wheel slip tables. I configured that so I can change the tcs map with a Bluetooth button on my phone in the m dash app. I also set it up so I can see the targeted wheel slip for the map that’s selected.

Overall progress has been a little slow but I’m slowly getting it dialed in. I’ll post a couple pictures of my dragy times. I think there’s still some work to do but I have been able to make progress and improve the times since I first installed it. Also, I just hit a little over 2k miles on the bike since I got it running and the rear tire is almost done so that’s about what you can expect to get out of a hook up drag tire. That might improve once I get the boost maps dialed in.

60-130 video:
https://imgur.com/a/KCECs1C

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 7/31/2026 @ 11:23 AM *

I'm digging the front caliper scoop! I think I have to do that even though I doubt I ever get my brakes really hot.

Speaking of hot, looks like you are getting some meltage on the lower fairing...or is that just a reflection?

The plastic is okay. Haven’t had any issues with it melting yet.

Awesome updates! So cool what you can do with a modern ECU.

That 60-130 is cooking

Ya, it’s pretty cool to have all these options with the maxx ecu. Getting it all setup and configured is a lot of work though. I’m working on getting the air shifter installed right now. Once I’m done with that I’ll be working on getting those boost tables dialed in. If all goes well I think I should be able to get under 3 seconds with the 60-130 time.

Ever get the air shifter setup?? I'm planning on doing my standalone over my Christmas break, hoping for mid 3's 60-130. ChatGPT claims 3.1-3.3 should be possible at my current power level and verified weight, but I think its underestimating the size, aero, and weight of my heavy girl lol.

Puck,

I’ve been doing a lot of runs with the bike lately working on boost maps. I’ve also switched it over to e85 and started working on boost maps and some small fuel table adjustments. I did get the air shifter installed and working. It would have been a lot easier if I would have had Greg setup the original wiring harness for an air shifter.

It’s taken some work to get it working good. I had a a few miss shifts. I had to play with the shift cut times and I have a weird issue with the co2 tank regulator where it doesn’t hold a consistent pressure. It starts out reading say 150 and I’ll look at it later and it’s 120. I replaced it with a different one and it does the same thing so I’m starting to think maybe my clamp that prevents the knob from turning is somehow causing the problem.

So today I installed another small inline regulator for the air shifter in addition to the one I installed for the boost control solenoids and set the main regulator at 150. I went out and did some runs and it seems to work good. I may play with cut times a little more. I have it set to kill fuel and ignition right now. I may also try setting it to only kill ignition and see how that works.

As far as your 60-130 time goal goes all I can say is I have had to work really hard to get into the low 3’s. Today I finally managed a 2.95 60-130. Until recently I’ve been doing all of my runs on asphalt backroads and on them I can usually manage 3.08 to 3.20 60-130 times. On a concrete highway I was able to run a 2.95 60-130 today. I think I can add a little more boost towards the end of 2nd gear. In 3rd gear I’m running 16-17 psi of boost so there’s not much left there. Currently I’m reading around e75 as well.

Here’s a couple 60-130 videos. The 1st through 3rd gear run was a 3.13 and the highway run was a 2.95.
https://imgur.com/a/39pAmD0

Here’s some pictures of the air shifter setup.

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 8/28/2026 @ 9:35 PM *

LOOK at those tiny gauges under there! The shifter setup is really cool.

The foot quickshifter I used required something like 80-90 mls of kill time to be reliable at high rpm. It caused a palpable jerk when ignition came back on at WOT. I could have lived with that but I felt clutch shifting was just as fast and very reliable. I have a hunch an air or electric shifter is more appropriate for these larger engines and also that they do need a little more time to make a clean shift than a liter bike or smaller.

I wish I could watch your videos. The old version of Safari I use is slowly not working with more and more of the internet. LOL it still works fine with this site though, ninjaforum runs on older tech than my 2015 Mac does!

Currently I’m running .065ms on 1-2 shift, .060ms on 2-3, and .055 on the rest. 120psi to the air shifter. The small regulator and gauges are pretty cool. I’m not sure what they’re intended for but they work good. You can send me a email or text and I can share the videos with you.

* Last updated by: bryan468 on 8/29/2026 @ 8:10 AM *

Currently I’m running .065ms on 1-2 shift, .060ms on 2-3, and .055 on the rest

Sixty-five milliseconds (.065 second) was the manufacturer suggested general kill time for sport bikes with "slick gear boxes." It often caused the higher rpm/hard load shifts to stick in false Neutral. I tried preloading the shift pedal and using higher and lower sensitivity (how sensitive the strain gauge was to pressure) but nothing seemed to help.

120psi to the air shifter.

You can send me a email or text and I can share the videos with you.

If you start missing shifts more consistently, check the shift linkage (that goes through the case). My shift rod is bent from previous owner abusing it with an air shifter. I actually can't remove the linkage as I should because it is bent. I need to cut the linkage with the oil pan off in order to remove it. Make shifting feel a little different...

Don't know how long to expect the shift linkage to work normally until a bend comes.

I had close to 50,000 miles on my Gen1 when I changed the shift shaft. If it was bent at all, it was very slight but I replaced it anyway. The new one made no difference in performance or shift feel.

I normally just shift by letting off the throttle for a split second to unload the transmission and that works really well. I can’t recall missing any gears shifting that way. When I’m after good times I use the air shifter. I think my issues with that were associated with air pressure as I haven’t messed with the kill times and it’s working good now.

Bryan, it looks amazing - awesome job! Its rare to see individuals do pro shop level work like that, its a crazy cool build and you should be very proud of how its coming out.

Yea mid to low 3s wont be easy at my weight and SWB, but I can't deny that a 3.5-3.6 would make me happy for now/once I get the haltech on it. Its all just to have a short term goal to keep me busy until the new motor is built - then I can start really pushing it and it will be when the fun starts. Probably break some stuff along the way (shaft drive and rear swingarm will be suspect), but thats expected when pushing into uncharted territory.

Your posts are great inspiration.