All right so first off I have done a lot of research and I do have a general idea of where I wanna start but most of the suggestions that I found are for all motor bikes. My bike is turbo now until I really get it figured out and learn it she’s only gonna be on about 8 pounds of boost. The bike was strictly built for super heavyweight class. I’m a big man and the bikes I’ll say between 74 and 80 inches that being said how aggressive are we going on a boosted application gearing should we leave some room to let the turbo spool up a little bit in each gear? Also, I don’t really prefer 16 tooth front sprocket but if I have to, I will. So any insight on where Maybe I should start would be great thanks.

Current sprockets on hand also it’s a Gen2 14 and it’s strictly for 1/8 mile drag racing

16t
17t
40t
42t
43t
45t
48t

* Last updated by: bizzy7902 on 3/21/2026 @ 7:19 PM *

Copied and pasted from your gear change stutter post: Welcome bizzy7902! I believe the stuttering issue is prone to stock combinations with or without a flashed ecu. My theory only is it's the traction control working with the abs and seeing improper speed/rpm/gear and individual wheel speed data from what's deemed to be within the factory parameters? That being said I run a track only Turbo 2015 with the abs deleted and the module attached to the harness. I run on a 7" M/T slick that's 82" circumference to compare to the Shinko or Dragmax I believe are in the 77-78" range. I'm currently at 18/47 and 74.5" wheelbase leaving at 6k on a 2 step with a Hays FastTrack hand slider that allows me to ride to staging and up the return road. I do occasionally feel s stutter when slowly riding through the pits in first or second gear but never during hard acceleration. My last time out 2/27 at the Texas Motorplex I made my best ever 1/4 mile pass at 7.913@168.40 with a 5.037@139.86 1/8th mile. I upped that best ever 1/8th ET the following day to a 5.035@140.88 with my 60ft usually in the 1.230-1.25 range on a good track with good air.
Hope this helps, where about are you from and what tracks do you get to race??

With your size and not knowing what tire you're running I'd say try the 17/48 and see if you can keep the front end down and report back what gear and rpm you go through the traps. I'd be happy to help anyway I can. I've never played secret squirrel...

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 3/22/2026 @ 8:03 AM *

Thanks buddy I appreciate you. And I have no idea how overlooked that post. I’m new here lol thanks for taking the time to write that out. And I will definitely start there 17/48. and the tire will be a shinko hookup. My bike is a true hand clutch bike, but I do have the Brocks clutch MOD and I do have Woolwich race tools so I do have a two step. But I was told that using the two step isn’t really beneficial, but that’s why I came to this forum because everybody’s either a smart azz or know it all on Facebook and won’t give explanations to their reasonings.

You're welcome and I hope it helps. The 2 step in my case works with the Hays clutch as I leave on the throttle stop and let the arms and weights do their thing. The 2 step could work with your setup by just rolling into it till it come into play knowing your launch rpm is the same each pass or a launch light would do the same.

So figuratively speaking if I was to stage. pull the clutch in and throttle back to the two step popping and banging light goes green I let clutch out. id say theres 4 things that could possibly happen l..
1.it’s either gonna bog down.
2. It’s either gonna spin
3. Its gonna go 12 o’clock
4.it’s gonna work out great lol

To be honest with you, I gotta get over the mental part of it because over the winter I spent so much time and money and I’ve made the bike extremely nice. I’m not afraid to ride the crap out of it mentally I’m afraid I’m gonna wreck it and I gotta get over that so I feel I’m being way too soft and too cautious on the launching part for right now.

Then you adjust your lockup clutch weight (if you have it), your 2-step RPM, or how fast you let the clutch out.

Right now it’s a factory clutch with the brocks clutch mod and heavy duty springs. That’s why I’m hesitant to bounce off the 2 step and let the clutch out. But I’m also 75 inches long so I don’t think it’s gonna flip over but like I said it a mental thing I gotta get over lol

* Last updated by: bizzy7902 on 3/23/2026 @ 2:59 PM *

Option 1, launch rpm to low.
Option 2, launch rpm to high.
Option 3, boost ramps up almost instantly under load.
Option 4, boost ramp controlled and applied through first gear into second.
You haven't mentioned if you have a boost controller? Also what track or tracks you're going to run? Fully prepped, concrete launch pad and how long or full track? With your size option 3 should be avoided at all cost even going 45 degrees if you're using a stock oil pan. I'm using the Schnitz/OSR factory cut pan and it's saved me more than once. Oiling down the rear tire under acceleration never ends well.

So right now my main track which I’m probably gonna be at most of the year is a 1/8 mile prepped asphalt track. I do have Adam‘s low profile oil pan. I made sure to get that because I scrape going on a trailer and stuff anyways. I do have the Adams flat link and Adams adjustable arms for the rear and I do have a spring that is rated for more weight than the factory spring. still factory shock but of course I’ve got the screws turned all the way in. Far is boost controller. It’s just a spring rated wasteGate with the lowest Boost spring in there.

AMS1000 is usually the go-to for simple boost control. I think AMS500 can do the same thing. Both are getting older, thus cheaper. Maxxecu and standalone is ideal though.