ZX-14 Ninja Forums https://zx14ninjaforum.com Yes Kruz, torque is in the blood for me. Does not get old in my wheelhouse. Congrats. Of course I would have said go for it. LOL I must admit, you sure have a good eye for motorcycles. Between the duc's, the SS, and the apes, it's an eclectic bunch. Have fun out there before the snow, then sit around and wait for it to thaw. [img]/images/emoticons/bikersmile.gif[/img] [img]/images/emoticons/cheerssmilie.gif[/img] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=FC6CF4F0-A61D-EC4C-EFF82CC539561D22&r=1 2026-10-05T13:43:04-06:00 Ping Hub...Oh Never Mind..LOL! I believe this may have just bumped my 2020 BMW S1000RR out of the top spot, this is an incredibly good machine right out of the crate. I programmed the Ohlin's EC-2 suspension to Sport Active/A2 setting and it is freakin good, won't touch it! Just ordered the Spark.IT Evo Titanium slipon exhuast system for it, should be here in a few days, next up is carbon fiber front and rear huggers from MotoComposites and then a tail tidy to finish things off. Decided not to go full system headers and UP map this time, I went that route on my '21 RSV4 and it's too much, the '27 is a near perfect blend of out right performance and rideability in stock form and 220 HP is more than enough for me. Hub you may be able to handle the '21s outrageous pull but I'm getting too old to hang on to this crap anymore, this is my last bike, at least my last superbike, having more fun these days on the RS660s and going almost as fast on a twisty backroad. [img]https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/Kruz/Picture1.png[/img] [i]* Last updated by: Kruz on 10/5/2026 @ 1:11 PM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=FC6CF4F0-A61D-EC4C-EFF82CC539561D22&r=2 2026-10-05T12:47:12-06:00 Ping Hub...Oh Never Mind..LOL! I have a Gen 1 and a Gen 2 stock seat. Good shape ( I weigh 127# ) $155.00 EACH plus shipping CONUS [img]https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/chrly/IMG_5938.jpeg[/img] [img]https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/chrly/IMG_5954.jpeg[/img] [img]https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/chrly/IMG_59371.jpeg[/img] [i]* Last updated by: chrly on 10/5/2026 @ 11:32 AM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=3 2026-10-05T11:29:39-06:00 Parting out 2013 I have three Vortex sprockets , 427-40 slightly used and 427-43,427-39 both new. $55.00 for all three shipped CONUSA[/img][img]https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/chrly/IMG_5930.jpeg[/img] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=4 2026-10-05T10:43:19-06:00 Parting out 2013 Oh, I also had to add 2-3" to the exhaust from that pic since it was getting too much fresh air at idle and low speeds and messing with my wideband readings. https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EFBDBC86-0275-B86B-9DC66F76E86FF2F2&r=5 2026-10-05T07:27:17-06:00 Oil-less Turbo first impressions Koo210 Cool, these bikes got a bad rap for turbos due to some early turbo builds failing due to poor fueling setups (relying on just boost reference for your additional fueling WILL NOT WORK), but they are actually great for turbos. Caught me at a good time so I can give a nice long answer lol. Between the much lower starting HP, and lower compression, they can safely take quite a bit of boost even with the cast hyper pistons. FWIW, WRX STIs run the same style pistons with 19psi stock boost - its not the piston so much as the tune. My setup is all DIY so I can pick and choose what works best for me - I've done a few turbo builds and was comfortable enough to spec everything out myself, but a kit is recommended if you're not sure since its easy to mismatch parts and end up with a combo that doesn't perform how you want. Motor wise, there are two important mods to do. The billet oil pump cover keeps oil PSI stable at high RPMs, since the stock thin cast cover is prone to flexing right when you need it most. Heavier valve springs are important as well. Our exh valve springs are the same PN as a gen1 ZX14, but our intakes use smaller lighter springs that may not be up to the task at high RPM. I went with the Ape HD springs+ti retainers but thats probably overkill for most. If you're only looking for 6-7psi, some stock ZX14 springs would be fine. I keep it under 11k due to the big heavy VVT module handing off our intake cam. I also went HD clutch springs, but thats also probably not needed at normal 6-7ps pump gas levels of boost. Fuel is where its most important. With no E85 you won't use as much fuel and wont be able to go crazy with boost anyway so wont need huge injectors - which is great since big injectors are a huge pain to tune on these bikes since you can't adjust the injector size in the ECU or adjust the scaling so can only do % adjustments. Sticking to ~500-600cc is probably a good idea. Without an intercooler, race gas, or E85 you won't max out a 600cc injector on pump gas on a Concours anyway. For the pump and regulator, its expensive but the HTP setup is killer - drop in Fuelab 340 pump with built in boost reference regulator, keeps factory fuel gauge, no extra lines to run, and good to ~600hp. I ran pump gas and 7psi for the first 2-3k miles without issue, but I didn't have that setup long enough to really consider it safe and it will all depend on the tune. I will say it was in FL during the summer so temps were brutal and it never missed a beat. Definitely pull some timing and keep it on the rich side, I was pulling 1* as soon as it starts making boost and was -3* at 7psi everywhere from where the TQ comes in to redline. Don't just adjust WOT timing, you are usually way more likely to blow a turbo setup cruising around closer to peak TQ at light throttle when boost is coming in but AFRs are still lean and timing is still high than when you are at WOT tuned rich at lower timing. I've got a full build list on the Concours14/1400GTR Enthusiasts group on FB that also has a dyno vid of the bike. Try to have a header fabbed yourself so you can keep the oil cooler. It will make your exhaust stick out a bit more, but in exchange for lower engine temps I'd consider that worthwhile. Pump gas will need all the help it can get staying cool. One thing to keep in mind though - the smallest oilless turbo is (or at least was) 57mm, which is big for pump gas C14 and not really suited for mild builds. I wanted bigger for future goals, and I am at 11psi and will be running 16+ eventually when I finish building the spare motor, but if you really only want 6-7psi for stock motor pump gas, a smaller turbo would be much better fit. Even on E85 with its faster spool, its not making positive boost until ~3200rpm and not all in until almost 6k which would be kind of a bummer for only 6psi. Make sure to share your progress - as you have seen, there is very little C14 specific info for turbos floating around. Feel free to hit me up if you have any other questions. One huge benefit - our parts are dirt cheap. Its $3k+ for a ZX14r motor, but our mostly similar C14 motors are barely $1k so get a spare early and if it pops just get throw in the new one LOL :). [i]* Last updated by: Puck on 10/5/2026 @ 7:26 AM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EFBDBC86-0275-B86B-9DC66F76E86FF2F2&r=6 2026-10-05T07:25:39-06:00 Oil-less Turbo first impressions I would love more info about your build. Im also a concours 14 owner and like you mentioned, concours forum are pretty much useless for this type of info. Did you do anything motor wise or is everything stock? I don't have access to E85 where i live. With all the data you gathered so far, do you think a similar build is doable with 91-94 octane? Im worried about the cast piston not being able to handle the heat without a water meth kit. I would really like to know if you diy everything or if you bought a zx14 kit and retrofitted it for the concours. I would like to diy it the most i can. I would love your input. Thanks https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EFBDBC86-0275-B86B-9DC66F76E86FF2F2&r=7 2026-10-04T18:46:53-06:00 Oil-less Turbo first impressions BMW. thanks for the info but going to part it out . Streetsweeper , I have two exhausts both full SS systems the Brock Alien is moderately loud and teh Yoshimura is what I used for street as it is a bit quieter.. I want to seel so lets talk :) five30 seven177608 [i]* Last updated by: chrly on 10/4/2026 @ 10:37 AM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=8 2026-10-04T10:31:14-06:00 Parting out 2013 what brand exhaust is that? full system how much you asking,is it crazy loud? https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=9 2026-10-04T01:21:45-06:00 Parting out 2013 I used uShip this past June when I bought my 2022 -- shipped from VA to TX, no issues. If you're interested I can give you the shipper I used, bikes only, enclosed trailer. https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=10 2026-10-02T21:39:47-06:00 Parting out 2013 I just put a 2004 Yardly Haventson with upgraded tensioner blocks. Under 20k miles so it was not damaged in any way. Dropped the 3 magnetic drain bolts and found each one spotless. Rattled all my fillings out of my mouth. Installed megaphones taken off Kenny Roberts Yamaha dirt bike. CR Axtel was the tuner at the time. Slid right on and had those wave plates that muff the noise/power out the cone. Bought it for the rear fender it had. It's a softail standard. Yardly had a test ride while it showed up at a race. Took out the 2026 front single disc whatever it was, and it sure braked better, torqued up faster than that 22yr old pile I have now. https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=C65CA48A-C8ED-53AB-4FC9CB738446E56D&r=11 2026-10-02T15:56:17-06:00 Harvey Davidson Your offer is exactly the number I had in mind. As far as shipping, that's a fact of life living where I do. When I was interested in extrapolator's bike five months ago, I checked delivery fees from Georgia to Upper Michigan and it looked like about two-thousand. ...but like I said, that's just a fact of life in the UP. ...so let's talk before you go selling any parts. I'd be using the bike for my turbo build. That means a donor engine. Exactly how to choose a used engine is beyond me, you're buying something that might be junk and you don't know until you put it in the bike. I'll send you a PM tonight chrly. Let's see what we come up with. One thing I know, I can trust you. ...LOL not like a used engine off of Ebay. [img]/images/emoticons/laughat02.gif[/img] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=12 2026-10-02T14:59:03-06:00 Parting out 2013 The bike can be registered I have a signed pink slip from my friend who had the bike in SOuth Dakota over the winter Presently the head is off but everthing else intact . I would think $3000 with possibly delivered ( split cost) Let me know ifyou want to talk and I will send my number . I can do a full video of the bike and have available . No insurance claim. Water froze during winter and cracked the head which means water mixed with the oil setting for awhile Friend rode the bike in the spring for ten miles and began to lose power, he shut it down and trailered teh bike home where it sat until I picked it up. [i]* Last updated by: chrly on 10/2/2026 @ 2:07 PM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=13 2026-10-02T13:43:46-06:00 Parting out 2013 Just curious, how much for the whole bike? ...before you start selling parts. Was it totaled by insurance? Can it be registered as a vehicle for street use? https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=14 2026-10-02T04:24:33-06:00 Parting out 2013 I have a 2021 Harvey Sport Glide that is about the only thing I have been riding lately. Love the ride but what a DISAPPOINTMENT when the throttle is twisted. It is embarrassing when trying to keep up with a tractor trailer. Wonder iffens I could keep up with a piggy back trailer? https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=C65CA48A-C8ED-53AB-4FC9CB738446E56D&r=15 2026-10-01T19:31:54-06:00 Harvey Davidson Heads up as I am starting to part out my 2013 as motor is no good . I will be posting individual parts today , at least as many as I can .This is the bike .Let me know if you are interested in anything and I will get pics and price [img]https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/chrly/April21d1.jpg[/img] [i]* Last updated by: chrly on 10/1/2026 @ 7:45 AM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=AD1703D8-9210-32CF-6DA9253D091064B2&r=16 2026-10-01T07:45:11-06:00 Parting out 2013 [quote]Pass on the tape. More like crush a higher torque value. If you are using 2 lines with a longer banjo bolt, there is a crush washer between the lines, meaning 3 are the total washers used.[/quote] 10-4 Thanks... https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=756C5CDD-F2F5-B3B5-FF4F93720537CE91&r=17 2026-10-01T04:58:32-06:00 Banjo Bolt 'washers' 'real' ones? Pass on the tape. More like crush a higher torque value. If you are using 2 lines with a longer banjo bolt, there is a crush washer between the lines, meaning 3 are the total washers used. Copper washers work as well as aluminum. Might want to try different dealers and order new OEM type washers. Dimensionally speaking, size hole and outer diameter meeting or exceeding the round of the hose ends will seal https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=756C5CDD-F2F5-B3B5-FF4F93720537CE91&r=18 2026-09-30T20:07:56-06:00 Banjo Bolt 'washers' 'real' ones? Thanks @Rook , lots of great ideas and I was also thinking that alum might crush better and yield a better seal, I tried cu, but both kits were woefully under specked. The brake cleaning idea was about my old lines, thinking I might be able to clear them if they were in fact the actual problem, I should have mentioned that. I got another package today of a random 35'' brake line cause it comes with banjo bolts and washers, I didn't open the package yet, but the washers were visible and look much better, they look to be 2mm, which is something I hadn't been able to find, 2mm thick not 1mm or 1.35mm like the previous washers. I'll keep the 12ft lbs in mind. I've checked for leaks a few mins ago having wiped everything down pretty good this am, right now as you mentioned, they may well have sealed. Either way, now I think I have better materials and a better chance at success. Thanks.... https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=756C5CDD-F2F5-B3B5-FF4F93720537CE91&r=19 2026-09-30T19:49:49-06:00 Banjo Bolt 'washers' 'real' ones? [quote]What are the best washers to use?[/quote] I've used Goodridge lines, Galfer and Spiegler. I always used the gaskets that came with the brake line kit and the banjo bolts too. I've always gone with aluminum banjo bolts and I've always under-torqued them as I do with any aluminum fastener. Go about 60% of specced torque with aluminum as a general rule. In my brake line tutorial, I stated that 18ft lb seemed too much for an aluminum banjo bolt so I went with 12 ft lb. The rear needed to be tightened just a crick more (maybe two cricks) to stop the leak at the caliper. Are you using aluminum banjo bolts? If you went with stock torque spec, the threads might possibly have stretched and that could be the source of the problem. A) buy new banjo bolts with new gaskets supplied from the same company and probably the same manufacturer as the brake lines. Don't over-torque, if aluminum, under-torque and watch for leaks, tighten a bit more if leak appears. B) Wait it out. Brake fluid is oil. Once oil finds a path to seep between surfaces, it tends to continue to seep. Often, the seepage stops on its own. Microscopic deposits of crud, a light film of corrosion fills gaps?....IDK but it will often stop on its own assuming there's no actual damage to the surfaces the leak is getting through. I've seen this with bleeder valves a number of times. Reservoir caps too (that's why they make reservoir socks). They weep and one day, they weep no more. C) If all else fails, you might consider craftily using some teflon tape. I'd really do my research on that. If brake fluid doesn't damage the plastic bottle it's in, teflon tape might be impervious as well. I can tell you ABS type plastics are not. Also, you'd want to make sure no bits of the tape could enter the brake system. I used a quality teflon tape on my oil pressure sensor adapter and it worked. No problems I'm aware of. ...this is a little drastic though. People don't normally use teflon tape to install brake lines. [quote]Should I soak the possibly clogged cable/s in brake cleaner and try them again? [/quote] Keep that idea as a backup but I don't believe there could be anything wrong with your new lines and banjo fittings assuming they are from a reputable manufacturer. As far as cleaning old lines, brake parts cleaner sounds like a good thing but you'd want to make sure somehow there was absolutely zero left in the line before installing it. Nothing should be in the hydraulic system except brake fluid. I'd favor forcing brake fluid through the old line instead of brake parts cleaner. However, I'd really just replace the lines which you've already done. [quote] I have yet another set of banjo bolts on the way and if the included washers still suck, I figure on taking a banjo bold to O'Reilly's and see if I can't come up with a 'proper' washer match. [/quote] See A) above. [i]* Last updated by: Rook on 9/30/2026 @ 5:16 PM *[/i] https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=756C5CDD-F2F5-B3B5-FF4F93720537CE91&r=20 2026-09-30T17:14:27-06:00 Banjo Bolt 'washers' 'real' ones?