#1 I think I need a tester. What kind of meter would i get to check the battery? A volt meter?
A plain old ohm meter has one built in. D-C Volts/A-C output/Resistance draw; are some of the options used to find ohms law or said problem with house current, bike battery current, and what jobber has no continuity to it from one wire in to the other wire out... Something is cut inside = No joy in my jobber. Look at the D-C volt scale. Set the dial to 20v. Use this to check anything from a 1.5v AAA battery to a 12v car battery, or that scale up to 20 volts of output.
#2 After the bike starts, there is no further need for a good battery to keep it running, right. The bike runs off the charging system?
False. A good battery is all about a constant feed. Think of the A-C output like an electric dam. The water flows, or the crank spins, so does the A-C, meaning, the faster you turn the turbine, the more A-C runs up in a linear fashion.
Here you have those coil windings. They wind so many amps. So when you hear someone say a 32 amp stator for a H-D, you see these two prongs coming out the front left case near the stator or the front primary cover. Look at that stator now as having 16 amps out of the one prong. Add the other prong up, you have a 32 amp rated stator. There is a convert box now called the volt reg/rectifier. The regulator will send excess amp to ground. The alternating current is captured by the rectifier and that changes that one caught wave to a D-C wave of direct current. That rectifier can catch the other wave too. It depends how the rectifier is made to capture one wave or send the other wave to ground.
That engine keeps running, so instead of burning out that battery with way too much amp, it sends a lot of that current to ground as we ride. The stator puts out so much balance. The jobbers are all added up via wattage and that is math'd at the way the volt/reg is going to feed all that balance.
That regulator box is balanced to feed that battery so it never drops out of that 12.8v balance. There you see on the dash, the volts banging out about 14.3v give or take a 10th of a volt change at that charging rate. So technically speaking, it is the bike running off that 12v battery. As stated, a jobber or light bulb will pull 3 watts from a 12v battery, that was all it needed to glow bright. Notice how the starter/bulb needed from the [car] battery. Car just holds more amps you do the ohms wheel and calc all that out. Or put another way, 12 volts is feeding that demand at the taillight for that bulb is balanced at 3w/12v/?amps; and there is that ohm's wheel in action. The demand of the ECU has to have memory running to keep the clock set to the time of day you turn the key on or off. A current draw is always running the battery low but in a balanced sort of way of killing the battery off just sitting around.
We could not run the bike off the A-C or we would throw a whole bunch of amps at that bulb. There is no balance with A-C. It goes from zero volt with a dead crank spinning, to max outage at full spin, the bulb blew way before you could rev it once. See that jobber is burnt out we flew past one prong at 16 amps? That PC is burnt out. The dash is burnt out. No, the bike does not run off the charging system. How could it, right?
#3 If the charging system has a problem, then the bike will run off the battery after start up. When the battery is drained the bike will no longer produce spark and of course it will not run any longer---yes?
Yes. The demand is 12v... Run at that 'total loss system' of the battery alone, you still have 10v sitting there because the 12v battery kept that mini-deep-cycle going, but to run total loss, you run a car battery that acts more like a deep-cycle battery so 12v last longer until it gives up the ghost @ 11v or there about is the jobber's balanced [12v] no longer sparking out of the PC.
* Last updated by: Hub on 9/9/2011 @ 1:33 AM *
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