Installed HIDs H1 on low beams,I was at a trustworthy shop to-day and the parts mgr told me to get rid of them,they have had problems with HID's taking out voltage regulators and ECU's on susukis's.Anyone had any problems with them?

Wow, that's a first ?????? I have used the High and Low HIDs from day one,,,,,, First I've heard of this.

Also installed in many other bikes not just Kawi and Zero Bad reports outside the norm.

35 watt only. Have never gone 55w. Is this what they R talking about ?????

Rick ,I was at riders choice today,parts mgr told me they had the problem with Susuki's he didn't say whether it was 35 watt or 55 watt

Wait I see the problem. Susuki!!

Had them on my 07 for 4 years with no issues (high & low beams both 35watt). Running them on my 12 for 7 months with no issues....

Running them on my 12 for 7 months with no issues...

Yep, and I will copy soon. No worries what so ever. cheers

No probs with mine so far. 35 watt.

Darryle, I read horror stories on a daily basis on almost every bike forum I visit about HIDS.......imo putting them on a bike is asking for trouble. When you properly adjust the stock lights, which are set too low from the factory, you have all the light you need.

The HIDS I've seen on bikes aren't designed for the bike projector set-ups, and spread the light all over, not nearley as focused as the stockers, and no better at all for visibility....they're just a diff color, which is the main reason I think most guys want them on a bike.....for the cool factor. I've read about them damaging all kinds of stuff on a bike, affecting gauges, affecting running etc etc. I'll never run them on any bike I own.

I've had HID lights on the last five bikes, never had any problems.
I also don't have them for the cool factor it's for the safe factor.
If you do alot of night riding like I do they become a must have.

NO! Work perfectly from day one!

I have had HID's on my last two bikes, (ZX 12 and 14), never had a problem.
Can't see how the ECU chould be affected by this mod, a little higher current when they ignite, but within the fuse range.

So you guys that are running these with no problems... is there a certain brand or something? I'm interested in getting some for myself. Sounds like I should stick with the 35 watt version...

I installed 55W highs and lows from DDM Tuning. So far so good. No issues yet and much brighter.

parts manager is on drugs, 55 watt in low and PIAA 65 watt in all high beams..work perfectly!

55'sin all four...went 4 years in my 07 with virtually zero problems...except what I caused.Other than that...DDM's work very nicely.

What I'm getting from this thread is the Suzuki ECU has little or no sheilding from reactance.

In a nutshell, reactance is an EMF "backwash" from a source of capacitance. HIDs need high voltage to fire and sustain. A capacitor charges and discharges to start HID bulbs. This sends an equal and opposite charge back to the source of initial potential (voltage). This is the sole reason point ignition systems employed a condenser (capacitor).

Perhaps the Suzi rectifiers/ECUs weren't properly shielded whilst KHIs were?

55W HIDs for about a year in my '06 14, no probs...just put them in my new one last weekend.

55w seem to be the good choice I guess, but who is ddm

DDM Tuning. I vote for their 55w kit too. I have the 6K color. perfect!

* Last updated by: rod442 on 8/15/2014 @ 11:09 PM *

does it have any strain on your battery

No.They actually use less power.(so I'm told)Don't the factory ones use 35 and 55w?I think so.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/16/2014 @ 7:56 AM *

A/C output = V/reg keeps the battery charged @ 14.5v (number on my dash)
V/reg = Pours in 14v is the input.
Battery = Pours out 12v? Where is a battery taking out an ECU if all the ECU demands is 12v?
Hid = Uses 12v.
ECU = Uses 12v in 5v out.

A/C fails = Less volts = How can I kill the ECU with less volts if a 12v is now running 'total loss' down to 0 volts. Show me a damaged ECU.

V/reg fails = More volts = Now, the surface charge is pouring in big time volts and this cooks the battery. Layered over that battery is still 12v and that is all she wrote. So on the surface, better known as finding the shortest path of 16+volts, yes, 16+ volts heading into the ECU is going to burn that out.

Battery = Is that balance out the lead box of demand. I demand 55w, there is a balance of 12v, 55w and you do the ohms calc = Balanced, not the burning of ECU/Bulb/Etc.

Dealer has to state the V/reg gave up the ghost and now you blow bulbs/eat ECU's. Therefore, that is why after 4 years, your Hid is working like a 3w bulb in the taillight and watt?; 35w for low and 55w for high beam?

So, I have the ability to turn the one harley headlight bulb off. I set my dash to volts. 14.6v is about average I ride with or without headlight on.

Electrical mods are just like any other mod which alters the bike (or leaves it stock for that matter). You may cause a problem, you may not. One bike might be 90% aftermarket and run 100k miles. One might be bone stock and the engine blows after 10k miles.

With that said, I don't think the service manager is just making shit up, probably has seen it cause issues. In another thread I warned against going with too high wattages for the same reason. I've seen rectifiers ruined because of it. Whether you go with 35 watts, 55 watts, 100,000 watts is now up to you.

1-14 pg says:

Hi: 55w + 65w
Lo: 55w
Tl: 4.9w

35a/14v @5k rpm

"I've seen rectifiers ruined because of it. Whether you go with 35 watts, 55 watts...

WATT do you have to say now? I'm running a lower watt headlight on my 3rd 14, battery is 12.6v sitting for a week. Running, my output is 14v as per. How about coincidence something burns out? Every time some V/reg burns out, someone had the Hid is watt you are trying to tell me.

AC = Why, I am being monitored by
V/reg = Me. And I am separate from the A/C as I am from me the
Batt = I am just a faucet. The V/reg is the power company. The AC is the Damn straight they are their own entities.

Where is my current draw if I turn my headlight off I am @ 14v give or take. Isn't the V/reg sending 35a to ground sort of? The more rpm, the more the V/reg has to dump AC? So if some cheaply made unit burns out, you point to suz and that bean counting trying to stay afloat, isn't it more like quality, not Mr. Balance?

WATT do you have to say now

I said

I've seen rectifiers ruined because of it

"it" as in additional current draw from higher wattage bulbs (or any additional load), not necessarily HIDs.