1. Why you need to have the ground removed from frame is to look at it as having no battery in the loop. You'll short the meter if there is battery current to the meter. Only time you're safe is when the meter is set to DCV. Plus, we are reading each part as a chain from one end to the other. So white from the v/r runs down to the battery(+) side. I'll [bracket] the jobber's name, then run a wire ______ to the next jobber's name. Then watch how many jobbers I found that are not grounded, plus, we have 3 simple 'white' wire ends we are tracing to ground, or to each other. I'm going to make sure that I probe the W-heavy from end to end and, so I need the key switch connector removed so the T-wires are free from touching ground and/or their remote jobber being the key switch:
Probe(+) To>[v/r connector female prong W-heavy wire]______[30a fuse assy]_____[Battery cable post with posi(+)cable still connected to battery]<Probe(-)... With the meter to infinity it should swing as if both probes are touching each other. This is called a 'complete circuit.' All you did was act like you picked up a foot of bare wire and touched both ends with the meter to see if there is a break somewhere in the wire? So you just checked the integrity of the female prong to wire end; the integrity to the fuse holder on the one side; the integrity of the connector there on that wire end; the fuse is not blown so there is more integrity down the wire route and jumps from one jobber to the other showing good (no short to ground)... right to the end at the posi cable that feeds the DC to replenish the draw of current out of the battery. We are not done with the probe.
Final probe of that wire is to see if it's shorted to ground but I kind of doubt it. We lift the (-)probe off the battery(+) cable that we stuck the needle up the battery boot and made contact on the first loop> Now we ground the neg probe to see if W-heavy shorts to ground. So if this meter moves from W-heavy to engine or the frame's ground... it shouldn't move. Don't go near the battery ground cable with W-heavy or you'll spike the meter and render it useless. But with the battery cable away hanging in the air, then no meter failure... circuit is not complete. This is how you can see if a hot wire is short to ground? The blown fuse kind that is. With battery ground connected, W-heavy becomes hot on its own.
W-heavy is a direct (+) wire in the reverse remember. It's hooked up to the posi battery post. Infinity is more for wire end to wire end breaks. DCV is to see if 12v is to the key switch off of W-light wire and any other wire that is hot like the horn wire... with key on that is.
(2)Three yellows plugged into VR/RG and they are AC IN and both of the pulses are captured of that one yellow, as a one way switch inside the v/r prevents reversion. So for every action, it captures this and the reaction. But theory says, for every action is an opposite so yeah it (AC) does, but the one way diode says another. It's all the sub-theories making it all make some sort of easy sense to it and complex at the same time.
(3)White & blk/y plugged into the VO/RG is how the high AC input has to be stepped down is the 1.? volts to ground and in the constant discharge to ground. Thus the thicker wire to cool the heat. The 14/?v is sent down W-heavy to the battery(+) side. More rpm the more output of the AC. E is linear. So it starts at 0123456v and so on until the said (5,000) rpm peaks at said yellow output wire is within the book's spec number.
(4)then check if White & blk/y are short circuiting to see if ground triggers hot? So both have to read infinity on their own, and if you switch probes and the seem connected by the meter's needle swing or digital number of 0 or infinity completing a loop, then W-heavy and blk/y are pinched together and/or a jobber is stuck like a relay, where the relay wires are tied to the kick stand safety switch = KILLS Engine/starts engine, meaning is junk or works.
In case you missed a point I made earlier, I checked last night that if any one of the connectors on the vo/reg is removed the bike runs well, as soon as they are both connected it refuses to start/run.
This is basic abstract right out of the book. I'll paraphrase, but it still is too simple to understand:
1. Wire out of Connector.
It's not this troubleshoot of the troubletree. We know the connectors are connected. That says the wires are to their jobbers at both wire ends. So the bulb lights for example.
2. Connector not connected.
This too is not somewhere to look because this too obviously shows the light bulb is connected.
3. Wire short to ground.
There are no other variables, right? This here in the diagnosing of said electrical issue is when it is plugged in, be it the wire or connector, the bike cuts out or shorts out is ding-ding-ding, we narrowed it down.
Starter Relay:
a. W-heavy leave v/r and down to starter relay.
b. Relay's other heavy cable post end is the (+)side cable to battery.
c. W-heavy from v/r is not needed, because battery cable side is hot to the relay so the bike starts and runs.
d. Plug in W-heavy from the v/r side to the opposite side of the starter relay.
e. W-light wire exits the starter relay to key switch.
f. Starter loop triggers kick stand safety switch and this wire comes out of the starter relay.
g. Starter relay has said wire coming out of relay to see if kicker is up or down. The gear position sensor also is in the loop for N to be the maker/breaker for the start with kick up or down, right?
h. Shit, I'm already down to here thinking it out and now the yellows stop the engine only without white heavy being plugged in.
That's some weird shit. So let me ask this. Start the bike without yellow and heavy connected. Where is the headlight now with key on only. That means, no v/r connected, no engine running. Say key on, headlight on = Starter relay(?) Why? Because if the headlight is on with key on only, you haven't mentioned this part of the diagnosing to see if the relay is stuck on,ie, the h/l is on. It needs to be hot yes, we know this, but the starter button keeps the light off and the relay keeps it on once the button is depressed. So say the relay is stuck on if the h/l comes on.
And one more way to approach it. You'll have to get a very powerful jeweler's loop or magnifier to see and depress the lock tab to the v/r's connector ends. Hand file a nail so it's flat and narrow. Find the tab direction and you slip the nail blade under, so the tab moves up and out of the plastic locking wall; call it. Then pull to at the same time, once you have a tab in the bend going that is. Say you have all 5 wires loose and out of their connectors. Install one yellow at a time as the bike is running. Do not touch or bump the yellow ends while running. Use needle nose and tape the end so the accidental touch is saved. One of those has to cut the engine off, right? I'd more mess with the W-heavy and ground wires and plug those in first... one at a time of course so as to see who shorted out the running. Do not remove once in. Just keep feeding. To, you could make wire connectors if you rather not butcher the connector ends trying. Match male/female ends and buy those so they are your single jumper wire. Makes it a lot easier.
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