...Can't you just run that reservior tube on the inside of the brake line?

rook this is how ur pressure switch should look when installed. if you remove your seat youll find the switch plug going down on the right side you can pull it up and unplug the oem and plug the new one in then tuck it back down

Thanks, you have the same switch I have except yours matches my bike better with the blue top LOL. I know exactly which connector you are talking about. The one with the clear plastic cube over it.

Hey, Scotty--you have kevlar lines too! Just recieved front and back Goodridges. Blue. Guess I might as well put them on immediately.

Can I install with the fitting turned upside down so that the stem on the fitting directs the kevlar line downward, (instaed of upward like the OEM fitting and yours is installed)?

Looks like the rear brakes system will need to be drained no matter what I do

Drained ? Air out should be fine.

Just recieved front and back Goodridges

Missed this.

Got my rearsets today from Matt,everything arrived fine,only one complaint,they are so bright I have to wash my bike to tone them down,now if it will only stop raining

Glad you guys made a deal. i agree, the finish is almost blinding against the deep grey frame. They will look great with you silver bike, darryle. I may paint parts of mine some day. Maybe--I look at them on the bike and I love the way they look.

We should put pics up. I just need to change the brake switches and my rearsets are done. Disconnecting the connector requires the tank to be lifted. ----and that is a real PITA for me with my new steering damper.

Okay...how much?Geez you guys.I swear...yer gonna put me in the poor house.

Wouldn't it be okay to just dremel off a "space" for the brake line to sit in as it goes past the rearset there?I mean,you don't really have any force on that part of it,and it certainly wouldn't affect the looks any,would it?Seems like a doable solution to me.

So the spring underneath that operates the brake light,that goes away?Anyone have pics of the bottom connection of the brake lever/rearset/master?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/28/2011 @ 2:44 AM *

Disconnecting the connector requires the tank to be lifted.

Is the 08 wired diff ? I did not have to do this. Took the seat off just to see and that was it. Rook are you sure you have the correct wires ?

Sorry guys, I wish I took more pictures. My Bad. This is really really easy to do. Rook don't take your tank off. You must have missed the connector six to ten inches up me thinks.

didnt need to take the tank off on mine , just take the wire at the bottom and wiggle it up and down till u see it move up top then grab it and raise it up and unplug it. here just went out and pulled it up and snapped a pic

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 5/28/2011 @ 5:57 AM *

Okay...how much?

I would shoot for $300 new. Look for a deal. Dennis Kirk was about $259.

just take the wire at the bottom and wiggle it up and down till u see it move up top then grab it and raise it up and unplug it.

Thanks. I will try to pull it up. The connector is inside the wide section of frame below the seat on the side of the bike. I was hesitant to pull it up by tugging on the wire. have to try that-----now that I have the steering damper all pulled off . (BTW, Romes, the damper needs tio be completely disassenbled-almost every part, to take tank cover off. I cut down an allen wrench so I can reach in there without taking the tube out of the clamp).

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/28/2011 @ 8:07 AM *

Everything goes together smoothly on a dry fit,the shift knuckle may have to be spread slightly to slip over the the shifter shaft.The heel guard on the brake side does compress the reservoir line,that can easily be corrected by moving the brake line between the two tabs.,my dry fit was done with stock setting

Ok,shifting's great smooth as owl shit on a ducks back,boots dont slip,currently have them set at the top of the middle row,now if you are vertically challenged 5'8" or less ,they can hurt like hell if you dont get your feet on the pegs quick enough when pulling away from a stop.They will bite your calf.I'm going to try them at max rear setting

Where is the pics darryle ?

Let me ask you guys....what is the "shift feel" like?Darryl...I think you addressed it,but what do you mean "slick".Is the shift throw different?Does it have to be "pushed" into the next gear,or does it just "click" in?You know...on mine...factory...it has to be pushed in,I don't know how far the actual "throw" is....but it's there.Maybe a inch or so.This unit shortens that up?

I know on my shifter lever,if it's not sitting parallel(with the ground) to the frame right there,it shifts SHITTY.Barely will go into gear,even really pushing on it(upshifts were horrible).I tried to change the shift lever angle some,when I lowered my pegs.Just being "off" like one spline,she virtually refused to shift.You are saying this unit will not do that?

Anyone here shifted the Hayabusa...now THAT's a sweet shifting trans.Is this anything like that?Does this affect the shift from Neutral to first....you know,the clunking(mine barely does that anymore).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/28/2011 @ 5:36 PM *

Roman you got beer,you got camera,I'll be there in 10 minutes

Woops wrong rear set

* Last updated by: darryle on 5/28/2011 @ 6:25 PM *

Roman you got beer,you got camera,I'll be there in 10 minutes

Sweet, 407 to 9th line. I will finally get a chance to see those BSTs up close.

Looks very good darryl.

Blue, on the shift quality. IMO, it is not an improvement but not something to fear loosing performance on at all. Feels as good as stock and the long shift rod doesn't detract at all. I have yet to adjust my lever down so I do not even feel the lever hit the stop on upshifts. It goes in every time. The busa doesn't shift any smoother now thatthe 14 has a few more miles on it.

The busa had something intrinsically smoother about the gearbox. I imagine that was an internal situation. The busa linkage and lever prolly not a factor in the smoothness. IDK if the busa keeps getting smoother with age as the 14 seems to have done. If so, that is a darned slick gearbox they make.

On the clearance issue I posted tthe ground clearance dif to be +3/4" with the Vortex. That was measuring with e rear wheel raised at the swing arm spools and the front tire unlifted. That would tend to exaggerate the difference but I doubt if it would be much--perhaps not measurable. I will remeasure soon.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/28/2011 @ 8:31 PM *

Looking real nice Darryle!

Are SS lines the only way to avoid the reservoir tube pinched? Good idea Edge but I wonder if the res. tube is flexible enough.

blue and dragking,

Wouldn't it be okay to just dremel off a "space" for the brake line to sit in as it goes past the rearset there?

That would prolly help. May not solve the problem entirely. But the key to solving is do what darryl did. Idii not know how brake line fitting work. They have a hole that goes to the line, yes, and a hole that goes to master cylinder but alignment of these holes is irrelevant. There is a channel around the entire inner circumference of the fitting that will allow fluid to flow regardless of hole line up. Same with my Goodridge lines. It's how they work. I also turned my goodridge upside down so the line is directed down rather than up as it is with the stock hose. Have to show pics. Whole nother topic, I know but closely related.

Are SS lines the only way to avoid the reservoir tube pinched? Good idea Edge but I wonder if the res. tube is flexible enough.

The heel guard on the brake side does compress the reservoir line,that can easily be corrected by moving the brake line between the two tabs.

According to darryl, you just loosen up the banjo bolt and turn the fitting 45 degrees so the notch on the brake line fitting sits between the two notches on the master cylinder. Doesn't matter which way you turn that thing as long as the hose does not rub the tire. The inside of the fitting is designed to flow no matter which way it is turned.

You will lose fluid if you loosen the banjo bolt. I chose to NOT drain the whole rear brake because that would def introduce more air that would need to get bled. When I switched my brake line from stock to the kevlar, about all the fluid drained out above the master cylinder but the MC itself stayed full so no air. It was no big deal. The filler cup went dry a few times and a lot of air got in. I don't think that matters too much for bleeding. Was very easy and routine to bleed even with the new dry kevlar brake line. If the MC gets air in it, I THINK that is the bugger rto get bled. IDK, never tried.

Just have a bucket of water and a rag to slosh the parts that get brake fluid on them (keeping water out of the brake system, of course). Take off your belly pan and I don't think there will be much to worry about if you wash it up right quick. I had 0 problems with painted surfaces of frame MC and other parts down there. Looks like new.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/29/2011 @ 6:32 PM *

Here is what we are talking about. If you have OEM brake line, you can turn the nib on the fitting so it is between the nibs on the master cylinder. That should give plenty of space for the filler tube that is getting squeezed by the heel guard.\\ Hopefully that does not direct the line too close to the rear tire. If it does, cut the nib off the line or just go with aftermarket line without nib.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/1/2014 @ 4:34 PM *