And oh, btw, I think I messed around with the shift light? I can bark up shift [rpm] increments over redline? If flash can step up the rpm, wasn't that the same operation with a mode button right there in front of you? I might be wrong on this. Seems once you are inside, there is so much you can do, so much you can't.

Man, I am still trying to gain a handle on this flash stuff:

1. I go in, see the software, I can only touch so much on/off.
2. Look at my blue/red line follow each other. I am same map scheduling.
3. I still have to map my own map, ridgeracer did not call Jeffo and redo dee do me.

Dishit is watt I get signing onto the net. More questions...

Sorry I can't answer your q's, Hub... You know I'm just a dummy.

For street riding and dragracing, there's no substitute for the torque of a big bore... not to mention the smoothness and stability.
... but if you're wearing your tires to the edges and/or dragging hard parts on your zx14, you'll have a blast on a litre bike.

my 14 is going the touring, commuting, and 2up duty route, and using my 600 for the twisties and track duty!

my 14 is going the touring, commuting, and 2up duty route, and using my 600 for the twisties and track duty!

That's what the 14 does best, IMO... I'm torn whether to make my 10r a designated track bike or pick up a 600 for that.

"my 14 is going the touring, commuting, and 2up duty route, and using my 600 for the twisties and track duty!"
That's what I was doing with mine also.Now the Connie has that duty.The 14 is really close to being a R.

BTW, isn't the variable cam on the C-14 controlled by oil pressure rather than the ECU?

I'm in Bellevue Washington and am taking my bone stock 2008 ZX-14 up to Woodinville to see Nels at http://2wheeldynoworks.com in a few weeks for a dyno run and then a reflash. But now that I've just finished reading this thread, I'm not so sure it's worth the money. ($50 for Dyno run and then $350 for ECU re-flash)

Any chance that the 2008 ZX-14 is a more tunable beast or that ECU re-mapping has gotten more effective since 2011 when this thread was started?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Vulfie

Lol!

"A guy walks into a forum with a tin labeled "worms" in one hand and a can opener in the other..."

2006-'07 = Slow moving subs.
2008 - 2015 = Can't tell from year to year.
This is sub moving speeds, not new engine family and the rod change.

Subs out = Not that much of a gain.
Subs OE = Smoother, better shifts than a modded [flies out] or locked open fly; as I had done.

OEM AFR = 13a or there about is rich.
Flash AFR = Your buddy Nel will use a 13.5a is lean it out by .5a

Performance wise:
OE = Pretty hard to find the better overall when you mod the sub, flash the ECU, find there is not that big of an advantage... See Smoke's and Vic's results.
Flash = Very expensive move for no gain, but then again, are we going after what here? Lets logically figure this out.

I want a dyno run so I see the size of my bike's penis? And now what are you going to do with the number? How important is that number, lets dyno the family car too. Penis my 2 and 4 wheels, let me drop my zipper down, look ma, Dick Dangling in the Lake I jumped in with both feet! And then it's some punk on a 600 that just blows you away, places you right back to reality, what a waste, you couldn't do anything about it stock, now you think a hot rod will help?

See it yet?

Hopefully getting my 14r re-flashed and tuned at 3rd coast speed in La. on Thursday. I have a BMC race filter and muzzy M-10. Sounds lean when revving it on a rear stand when compared to my sons 08 busa with a pipe and a pcV. Going to get some before and after numbers. Hoping for at least a 5-7 hp increase with some more fuel.

I took my stock 2008 ZX-14 for a dyno run at http://2wheeldynoworks.com in Woodinville Washington this week and am glad I did. Here are the results:

I was under the false impression that I had a lot more HP than 162, but a quick stats search on the net shows that this is about average for the stock 2008. Nels Byersdorf, the owner of 2wheeldynoworks, said that he could coax, maybe, 3 to 7 extra HP with an EC reflash but said it would really be a waste of money without replacing the pipes first. He said he could easily get an extra 20HP by just swapping the stock pipes for some Yoshimura slip-ons and then doing the reflashing and mapping for best effect. He said that the best pipes for my bike would be a set of Brocks.

Bottom line, getting the dyno reading was a nice fact-check on what the bike is putting out. For $50 bucks, I'd heartily recommend it.

* Last updated by: vulfie on 8/7/2015 @ 11:46 PM *

said he could easily get an extra 20HP by just swapping the stock pipes for some Yoshimura slip-ons and then doing the reflashing

20hp gain from only slip-ons and reflash ? 20 is one really Big number.

Bottom line, getting the dyno reading was a nice fact-check on what the bike is putting out.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Vulfie, important to remember a Dyno is a tool only. It's Best used to compare "The Before Mods" and then "The After Mods" with tuning to insure your mods are going in the right direction. Concentrate on this number.

Your gains here are what's important. The rest is by design to build you up or tear you down. Lots of BS here as you will soon learn. Keep reading. lots of good info on here once you wade through the Mud. Welcome to the site.

Congrats on the new bike.

Hi Romans, Nels said that the 20hp gain would come easily with just the aftermarket pipes which would massively reduce back pressure, which could then allow for additional fuel mapping with the re flash to coax out extra performance. He was adamant that the reflash, without changing the stock pipes for a higher performance set, wouldn't do much for me beyond remove the rev limitations and maybe give me some snappier mid range performance. Without the new pipes, he said, the reflash would be a waste of money.

He also made clear that the reflash process comes with a detailed tune and remapping on the Dyno to get the max performance for the bike possible.

* Last updated by: vulfie on 8/9/2015 @ 1:30 PM *

Vulfie,

Where you ride out of? I'm up in Snohomish. I have an 06 that was stock when I picked it up last year. I did the Yosh slip-ons and a flash from Nels this summer. I didn't do a dyno tune. Just his flash and the slip-ons. I am very happy with how the bike rides. I am thinking about going back in now that I have had a chance to ride a few mile and have him dyno and tweak the tune as needed. Since I didn't dyno before the changes and I haven't done a post dyno I can't speak on the actual gains but I can say with a big grin on my face that my bike woke up and rides much better.

What kind of riding do you like. Ever been out to Hurricane ridge?

Dave

He said he could easily get an extra 20HP by just swapping the stock pipes for some Yoshimura slip-ons

Nels said that the 20hp gain would come easily

Vulfie if it were me paying to get this done. I would go to Dyno shop of my choice with bike and pipes in hand. Strap bike down. Warm up and make 3 New pulls. Never would I go by old sheet pulls. I would insist on the honest man's Dyno Scale "SAE Smoothing 5"

Then install slip-ons, make 3 pulls again to see what my gains were from just the addition of pipes(These pipes will install in roughly 30 mins, cheap labor)

Now begin with Flash and tuning.

This work all being performed in your presence with The Same Bike, Same Dyno, The Same Day will yield "Your bikes" True gains. This will and should be the only number that matters to you. From here you will have the ability to look at overlays of your runs to insure gains are everywhere.

Afterwards if Dyno Bragging rights are what matters to you, for fun flip scale back to STD on the computer screen. Expect numbers to jump anywhere from 2 to 4% Dyno depending. Paper gains are just that, gains on paper.

If done exactly this way and you pick up 20hp you have done very very well. Like I said 20 is a big number, especially with stock headers.

Gains of 10% always sound a bit fishy to me. More than 10% you will have to prove to make me a believer.

Remember I said if it were me. The paying customer should have his way.

I hope this helps you in some way.

Cheers

ECU Unleashed 14R Gains Shown, Click Here

Romans,

I'm new to this whole tune and flash business too and just trying to learn and understand. I am very detail minded and try to read carefully. The link for the 14R Gains you posted. Is the 8hp gain from just the flash? Maybe I read it incorrectly but it looked like it was a 2012 with Brocks implying it already had the pipe before the 200hp run. How much of a gain would you expect to get from the exhaust upgrade? I understand it is a full system and I only did the Yosh slip-ons but if you get 8hp from the tune and X amount from exhaust would it be maybe 16hp total gain?

I really appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share it with us here.

Thanks
Dave

How much of a gain would you expect to get from the exhaust upgrade? I understand it is a full system and I only did the Yosh slip-ons

David if you go through the threads you will quickly see hp numbers are all over the map. Many guys have been saddened by low low hp #'s while others have been inflated to believe in Magicly high #'s.

I have read numerous threads where one particular bike is making 213 hp with a flash. Yet when others test the exact same flash on their bike are getting in the 190s. You need to ask yourself is it possible that a 22hp difference can really exist. The Answer is No. of course not. This ignores all science.

What gets to me is, the poor guy with the low 190 hp gets lulled into thinking something is wrong with his brand new bike. Now of course this crap gets into your head. No one wants to hear their baby is down on hp. Ugh !

Lol It has even been suggested that throttle bodies were not sinked properly, chains were to lose, wrong octane was used, spark plugs were gapped improperly bad break in etc. These are Brand new bikes ????

This is Wrong and it cost Good People who are trying to learn lots of Money needlessly.

Dave, 4hp is a realistic high number expectation from slips-ons. With a Full pipe and tune anything over 13hp gain from a Gen1 is a Bonus. Once again the number is Dyno dependent. If your runs are being made on a Dynojet 250I with all the updates prepare to have your heart broken. The total peek hp numbers will be down roughly 10hp from the older dynos. Once again do not get caught up in this. Concentrate on the before and after gains. The rest is a game for your wallet. Don't fall for it.

I hope this helps in some way

Cheers.

I remember a while back a guy complained about his dyno numbers. So I readjusted them using another algorithm. I think he ended up making 1800 hp or so, up from like 185. Now that's a damn nice gain!

Lol, I am assuming Lazer Fuel was used. Nice Gains for sure.