No, sadly, there is Zero real time access available in Woolich software.
Thanks. The answers I'm chasing will not help if I Wooly up. I can dup from the outside if I need fork dive.
Think how I feel... ((((Sniffs/Blows)))
Dyno Jet had no real time ignition that I could see.
AFR wise, I can watch watt little I see change on the needle swing. That lookup happens as fast as I toggle to ground, i.e., I see the needle's dump rich. I'm just saying, I'd have to run my video, see who I popped on, N or 6 that triggered some AFR swing?
With the MSD SB6 Ignition is visible in real time.
Are you saying the MSD swaps lookup maps as you watch the ping 3-D sort of? Because ping means to me, I watch [pick a number] 14.7 ping at cruise. Then, I WOT the throttle, watch the ping go from 14.7 as a 1. The TPS ratchets open. the 1 turns to 0 and 0 reps 11 AFR as in the accel mode map or say that 3-D map has a ping going from X down to Y on that layer after layer is the 3-D map getting ping'd with 1's and 0's so milli fast are the seconds. So in a way it's a math calc finding 0 from 1, or say it needed a 1-1-0 kind of computation and the walk works something like that... Mathematically.
In our bikes All timing is RPM driven.
Correct. Weedout don't need no stink'inn sensors. Those are more called [Open Season On Linears], because of the backups to most every sensor, sans the crank. So technically, yank all the sensors off and she still runs. It's down to the crank/ECU/cam's last good known signal saved in RAM. You stall or key off one time = Boat Anchor!
Only the 14R has a different Neutral Ignition Mapping OR it's missing from software in Gen 2006-2011.
I'm going to have to narrow that down to watching the idle cable disappear. Idle is more like fly by wire = RPM Driven. Right? I need to see those maps so I can run it down to 9-850rpm. No wheel chatter if braking deep.
I can find no evidence with what we have in our current software of your fork dive in the flip of the resistor.
You should feel it when I do it to the R. Thing is, I'm not going to touch this bike until warranty is up. I broke it in per book and I still haven't seen redline yet. Amazing how the tire is lasting longer than the other two bikes I broke in: much harder. I'd be going thru tires buy now.
Yet, there must be a signal for clutch pull or (N) or the backfire cure of the TRE006A could not exist, Correct ?
Correct.
[6] plays the hard set. It richens on lift. (N) also affects a safe mode and I think it's more the GPS maps are ign driven. And with ign change you get fuel change. Correct me if I am wrong, but [6] stops or helps a little on the decel = Turns 16.5, kills the 2.4 degrees for it kill the smooth transition of stock. [6] being more abrupt, more responsive, the transition from accel to lift dives the forks = Transition 2.4° Removed?
As far as clutch pull, yes, there is no longer an idle cable. I think we need a map if we want the bike to idle. And it seems clutch pull is tied in with idle. So with most every sensor there is a backup. And [6] having that dive to it, we can't see where the [real time] timing goes? Does it go full advance or kicks back to retard?
Were you using the N resistor for sure ? or the 5, 6 resistor for faster fly opening. I'm still working on this but can not duplicate,,,, how you do disssss ?
Yes, same old 220 ohms resistor but guess watt? Any dab'ill do. You can use a 100 ohm, a 2 ohm, any resistor that goes single is the signal is no longer analog. You shift the trans, the GPS has 7 positions = 1-N-2-3-4-5-6. So the ECU is looking for 7 moves and you keep throwing in the one resistor [pick] and it still says 1 resistance entry over and over, whereas the ECU says, I need more data, watthell? That's enough clock time, time to set the limp.
So are we setting the ign @ full curve or do we lose 6.6° and run on that 30 degree setting? With the fuel knock and the fast ign curve, it's hard tell. Then again, heat causes knock and retard causes heat. So are we diving with retard in backup? And yes, I could toggle both the 6-N separately. You can't use both at the same time, right? The subs close down like you can't even rev it to get home.
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