If you want to play, "The Shell Answer Man" it was known long ago to just throw it in gear and take off slow. I slip it in 1st before I start up. I then take off as soon as my finger is off the starter button. So, if you want to loophole this, you pull that clutch in way before you are ready to take off.

This slows down the freewheeler gear and there you go... Usually clunk-free once you get either routine down.

Thanks for the feedback. I found this subject on the other ask Hub section. Please accept my comment in good humor as it was intended.
Sharkey

Situation normal and nothing to worry about.
Welcome to Kawasaki.

Haha, that's how you know you are on a Kawi! After break-in and a couple of oil changes, switch to a high quality synthetic and you will be amazed at how much smoother the drop into first is.

Bleed the clutch

"bleed the clutch"-mmm....you may be on to something ZX.I lowered my idle to 9 ish,has changed the clunk nicely(upper 9's).

mine used to clunk really hard. then my dad told me to bleed it. and low and behold it helped alot

I found mine used to clunk really hard but it has setteled down with use... or maybe i'm just used to it?

change to a fresh, hi-quality Dot4 fluid!!!& bleed the clutch for good measure, you're not going to lose or hurt anything by going ahead and bleeding the clutch...
Also make sure that you are not idleing at too high an rpm.(1050rpm +/-100rpm)

* Last updated by: 1minerman on 5/29/2009 @ 8:37 PM *

+ 3 on lowering the rpm

When we are saying "lower the RPM" or "idle", are we saying when the bike is first started, or after it warms up at idle, or after a ride, or during a ride? Which idle are we talking about?

I took my idle down to ~1000 RPM after the engine had warmed up and revs had dropped, but then when I'm at the light during a ride, I notice the idle sitting higher up.

You have to let it warm up real good, or it may stall on you sometimes to keep it at 1000 rpm.

I lowered mine after a complete warm-up.It does change "a little" while riding(in my experience),so I just readjust slightly.She stays virtually at the same idle I've set though.But the shifting to first is A LOT better.

Always let it warm completely up, maybe even after a ride, before you adjust the idle Aussie. You need the bike up to operating temp before you adjust the idle...

And if you have never bled the clutch, definitely try that.
Remember that we have 2 bleeder screws on the cluch, one at the lever, and one at the actuator...Just one little bubble at the lever will cause problems...

Thanks for the responses guys!

Yes, thanks as well - the clunk is really annoying me.

Will warm her up tomorrow and drop the idle to 900.

Troppo, I'm at 900rpm and she clunks, she clunks cold or hot. Rolling gears is one has to stop is mis-meshed is mash it in gear.

Look, If you are good at the levers, you can stab first gear, pull the clutch in and by the time it happened so fast, you have the slightest clunk is a lot less bang, than sitting there is pull in the lever/stab and go scenario.

If you pull in the clutch, adjust your junk on the seat is get comfortable is now step on the shifter is tell me now hot or cold is I need a hank key is I may have caught a code in my doze.

<<< Oh L@@Key Ear... Azz Lame as I heard these chopper guys have a "Kick Off Contest" You have got to be kidding me there is never a catch N or bang 1St Contest is double nick kill you a cup pull of ways.

In my case,I lowered the idle-yes,she still clunks(some)but not nearly as hard as in the upper idle settings.And you have to have her warmed up good to get a consistent idle set.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/20/2009 @ 12:08 PM *

Aussie wrote:

I took my idle down to ~1000 RPM after the engine had warmed up and revs had dropped, but then when I'm at the light during a ride, I notice the idle sitting higher up.

I have noticed the same thing with mine. It seems to idle 75- 100 rpm faster when in gear. Put it in N out of first and watch what happens. It's very slight but the motor slows down a tad.

Mine always clunked. I've heard this so many times I think they should just put a sticker on the tank that says. "Don't worry about the clunk!"

Changing to synthetic gave me a nice sharp CLACK which I liked but that didn't last long. It was back to Klunk in 500 miles. I just changed oil. The klunk is softer now. I think that's all you can do is keep your oil fresh and don't worry about it too much. The other 2 Kawis I have ridden, 1500 and 900, did the same thing. End o' story.

Yeppers!!