Anybody using one of the two kits he sells??
Was wondering does this make the clutch (lever) feel more like a cable?
And since were adding more pressure what's gonna fail sooner? Clutches/steels/plunger???

... does this make the clutch (lever) feel more like a cable?

... what's gonna fail sooner? Clutches/steels/plunger???

You have to ask yourself:

1. Am I going to race this bike every weekend at the track? Then, yes.
2. Am I going to have any gain in the street? If you went up against Mav with he on a stock bike and you with some spring tension, who would leave from a dead stop quicker? Then, no. My money is on the rider not parts.
3. Am I doing this for a psychological advantage? Then, yes. Whatever beats Mav or the RG's of the 1/4 mile.

Gotcha ...
I'm just looking for something that will give me a bit more feel in the lever... Like a cable has ..? Any suggestions?

Seems there only made for Zuks....

http://www.orientexpress.com/p-1471-orient-express-cable-clutch-conversion-kit.aspx

I tried a few things but gave up. Now, I wouldn't convert back to a cable. You find its idio or you'll fight it thinking it's ever going to act like a static pull, rather than a liquid pull. That's how I forced myself in the position you are in, is my guess. Especially with a back-torque clutch basket: the drive chain has to have that happy slack so you do not feel the clutch basket but rather the plate feed, which transmits to not feeling anything but a smooth transition of no plates, not back-torque at all.

That's how liquid feels theses days. To go cable, you'd have to use way too much money. Casting is one example where the money is going. See where the setup is: the left side is pushing a rod, right? Whereas, we cast a new clutch cover to setup an arm and pull the pressure plate away with a cable and an arm for leverage, like the zx-10 for example and that cable pull arrangement.

Then, back to machining a block of aluminum, use harley's ramp and ball for available parts... I could mill that block, install the harley OE, solder a cable end for 7/8" cable perching, not 1" lever perchit. You get the idea. Back to shelling out shit loads for R&D and some machinist willing to take on the one-off.

So, are you going to drag your bike over with all the liquid parts out of the way, the machinist takes some measurements off the slave mounts to centering the push rod to harley's center ramp hole and some ball bearing in the middle is the throwout bearing setup say?

Piss my money away or can humans adapt to change, yes or no? Your wallet, your call. Think I want cable brakes back? LOL Not on this bike!!

I'm goofing wit chew.

Parts. Doable for sure.

See the leaf springs Brock zip-tied? This ticking noise is when the clutch basket rides up on the ramp behind the basket you can't see. The leaf springs are the tension holders of that basket if say you lock the back brake, this guy is going to freewheel. Same as if you shifted way too low for engine rpm, this does not hop the wheel so harsh like the old days.

So the leaf springs were the give to break the clutch loose on that racing trickledown you just eliminated. Happy wheel hop in the streets if you are not full out race setup like the video shows. This now stops the basket from riding up the ramp, thus breaks the clutch basket in the opposite direction, meaning, no way to actuate the push rod on the same side as the lever; to get at the pressure plate to break it loose that way.

Stock = Road race entry or hard braking is that breakaway device motogp uses.
Washer = Locks the basket from breaking the plates loose, so heavy wheel hop is back to the old style of slowing down fast.

1st gen did not have a back wheel hop device as the gen 2's have. So liquid remains liquid no matter the pull/feed.

Signed,
NOLTT

Hub u da MAN!! Lol

Guess I'll abandon that idea, and go back to my QS studies ...

Ride it rather than mod it.

Anybody using one of the two kits he sells??
Was wondering does this make the clutch (lever) feel more like a cable?
And since were adding more pressure what's gonna fail sooner? Clutches/steels/plunger???

I am using kit shown in video above. As for what fails I have heard of no one having any problems.

Click Here more info

I'm using it too.... clutch pull is harder and noticeable if riding in traffic jams.... you will feel the difference.

If you gotta have something. I would get an RCS16. You have two different settings (16x16 & 16x18) and more feel but like Hub says it won't make you win races. Looks good on the bike though!

what do the measurements mean? 16x16?

what do the measurements mean? 16x16?

Click Here

Thanks for the info. Guys!!
I will just hone my skills with the hydro.
I really only wanted a better feel of when the clutches engage.. No racing or anything just more feel of what's going on... This is like work boots vs sidi's for me ... Would rather have sidi's but they don't make em.. Lol

what do the measurements mean? 16x16?

And more Explanation!

thanks for info on MC ratios.

drag, your link goes to this: "The page cannot be found

The page you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.
"

This is an awful lot to take in anyway. When the time comes, I'll start a new thread since my main concern is the front brake MC.

ooops

try this

This is the dumb down version but I sense that that guy is not even sure about all he's saying lol
He did get the end wrong! 19x20 less modulation, more power but you have to apply more pressure
19x18 more modulation, less power but easier to squeeze
If you're in doubt don't go with 19x20, go with 19x18.

My apologies to the OP.

* Last updated by: dragking on 6/4/2014 @ 6:07 PM *