If you're going to do anything most of us will change oil. I have my list but I thought I'd ask you guys. Maybe I'll write a little list and post it in How Tos. So what do you do before putting your baby to sleep for winter?

If I think it's gonna sit for more than a couple of weeks, I'll add some Sta-bil to the tank and run it to get the stabilized fuel into the system. I might hook it up to the trickle charger, too.

Now that I'm gone for months at a time I actually store the bike.
wash and fresh cleaner wax.
Clean exhaust with stainless cookware polish
Fresh Oil
Lube cables.
Green Stabil,
Put it on stands
Clean and lube chain
Cover with flannel sheet.

Used to be I rode all through our rainy winters here in Wa.

Clean completely.Lube chain(after cleaning)...fresh oil..run for a minute or so.Fresh filter.Stabil added to full tank...let run for 2,3 minutes.Put carpet under tires.Connect battery tender to pigtail intermittantly throughout storage.Move bike several inches on carpet(s) during storage.Cover with large 'to the floor' bike cover.Go out and look for signs of clear weather.Read Rook's How-tos.Wish it were Spring.NEVER EVER start bike after the real cold sets in....Periodically go sit on bike...Enjoy the idea of owning such a bad motorcycle;)Think about the upcoming season(s).

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/17/2012 @ 10:04 AM *

I'm a believer in Seafoam fuel stabilizer because of the recommendations I have gotten but seems the overwhelming majority use Sta-bil. Seafoam is a powerful cleaner so it keeps the juice flowing through the tiny injectors but don't overdose it. It's powerful stuff. I use a little bit in my tank now and then throughout the riding season. Seafoam also has a desiccative effect. Keeps your system dry of water and water vapor. IDK, maybe Stabil does all that too. For storing longer than a year (thank God I don't have to) I would only use Seafoam.

Trickle charger, I use a Battery Tender Junior for the busa and a Shorai maintainer for the 14( IDK if the Shorai maintainer really is needed but I trust the co so I got one to optimize performance and life of the Shorai battery in the 14). Some people take the battery out thinking it is better to keep it indoors...IDK? Little extra work. SHould prevent any possible damage if the battrey DID freeze and brake open. That is not a concern with a Shorai, though. No liquid in there.

Wash and wax. Yes.

Clean exhaust. Like the idea of using the stainless steel cookware polish. If had a plain finish exhaust (which I do on my busa), I would use anything that was made for stainless steel appliances, definitely. Mother's Polish is an old reliable product (like Seafoam) which is supposed to be very well liked by those who have chromed out Harleys. I might check into that stuff this year and find out if it is for use on SS.

Speaking of exhaust, some people remove the muffler altogether or stuff it with a rag to keep stuff from crawling in. Personally. I think it is better to leave on. Stuffing might tend to trap condensation if it develops. Removing is just unnecessary ware on the pipe joint.

Throttle cable lube/clean. Great time to do it. I found a build up of water in the cable tube to the throttle bodies assy when I removed the cables. I suppose that collects after the bike gets washed. perhaps it sits in there a long time before it evaporates otr maybe it doesn't evaporate??? IDK. Good thing to remove cables to check on that and juice them up for storage. I have a tutorial in HOw Tos about throttle cable cleaning and lubing.

Put on stands. I always do, primarily to prevent flat spots on tires. Some have suggested inflating the tires extra hard and roll the bike periodically to prevent a large flat spot from forming. Also put blankets under the tires.

Clean and lube chain. I use Kerosene to clean. It's cheap and suggested by the manufacturer. Also works great. SOme use WD-40 but there is a lot of controversy about wheteher or not it damages Orings. I just use kero and don't think about it. For lube I put a heavy coat of high temp grease on the chain for winter. I wipe off teh excess before riding. I think grease is a good lube for cold riding in early spring and I continue to use it until summer.

Cover with (flannel) sheet. That flannel is a nice extra touch for winter skiffman. I like flannel sheets when its cold too. LOL IDK if it must be flannel but I think it is very wise to only use a natural fiber for extended storage. With temps going up and down between 0-50 F, there will be visible condensation if you have a humid garage. No sense in trapping it under a nylon like cover. I use a cotton cover for indoor storage. It is what I use in summer too. One thing, natural fibers do create a fiber dust of their own. I think that is better than letting all the other types of dust collect. It is less dust at any rate.

We forgot the MOST important (and perhaps most obvious) thing of all. Test anti-freeze!

Is there anything else?

Well...I'd never test antifreeze...that's just me...if I'm gonna remove any fairings to get to the access of antifreeze,I'm gonna just drain and replace.Maybe someone knows a way to get in there without removing panels?I don't have a bike right now..so I've kinda forgotten what's required to do it.My philosophy is if I don't NEED to remove stuff...I don't...but whatever is cool with a guy...eventually...everything is gonna get removed at some point.

I actually wish it NEVER required any removing of stuff...I'd like to see just how long one of these could go with all the factory settings never changed.(well-nuts...body panel seams...all that stuff I mean).I really like the new bike's layout however...for removing and reinstalling things.Seems much simpler than my 07 was...IDK exactly why...but things seem to go back together with less drama on the new ones.

Especially removing that upper inside fairing piece...up above the fender...man...that used to really be a chore lining everything back up on my 07...and it never really fit quite right ...even trying to tweak stuff to get all the seams tight under there.IDK what was up with it...just wasn't something I ever looked forward to removing.The new one...that piece and the seams and all...they slip right in there and mate up nice and factory looking.

I'd like to know for the new 2012's and on...anyone having one...and removing and reinstalling the midfairing on there...do you have a particular way of matching up that front side nose seam...on the midfairing as you're sliding it back into place?Mine always seemed to hang up right along the mating point right at the nose on both sides(not the curved angle area...but just aft of that)...scarey...always felt it was gonna crack or something right there trying to slip and push in under the cowl edge.Any ideas?Other than that...it lined up perfect..nice and 'seamless".The new bodywork takes a bit of getting used to...but it's much more refined IMO.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/17/2012 @ 11:06 AM *

Should be said, top off fuel tank to restrict any condensation to the top of the tank which would be easily reached if necesssary to repair rust damage.

Some top off oil too so that any possible rust is avoided in the crancase. Suzuki recommends this. I have not done this because some have suggested that seals might be damaged by immersion in oil above the FULL mark.

(one of Hub's recommendations from a storage thread from years back) "Wipe ATF on any chrome bolts or hardware that you want to keep looking fresh."

also:
"7. Keep bike dry and open. Keep an eye on rats nest droppings. Anything looking dirty or has a trail of debris.
8. Remove/replace levers; to grease pivot swing areas. Same goes for foot peg rider/passenger pegs. That or spray lube." (Also kick stand pivot and rear brake mastercylinder linkage pin- Rook)

Well...I'd never test antifreeze...that's just me...if I'm gonna remove any fairings to get to the access of antifreeze,I'm gonna just drain and replace.Maybe someone knows a way to get in there without removing panels?

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/17/2012 @ 11:26 AM *

...I might try the oil in the cylinder/turn motor by hand trick this season. Squirt some oil through the spark plug hole and turn the motor by hand with the bike stored in 6th gear turn rear wheel. glugsuckglugsuck... IDK, have to think on that. Removing spark plugs once to squirt and then again to clean or replace them because they will probably be carboned up on the first start. I guess it is possible to squirt through throttle bodies but the spark plug is right at the tippy top where you want to start the oil coating.

Maybe I am too anal about this. Hey it's 45 F...think I'll go for a ride!!!

well daMN!!! here is the list I made last year.

"winter storage
Check anti-freeze protection.
Long ride to warm up drive chain, clean chain with kerosene.
Long ride to fling kerosene from chain and stir up motor oil.
Fill fuel tank to neck with regular gasoline.
Add 1 oz Sea Foam/gallon of fuel to fuel tank.
Lift the bike on stands.
Reduce tire pressure.
Top off fuel tank if necessary.
Change oil and filter
Run motor for 1 minute to circulate the fresh oil and treated gasoline
Shut bike down in 6th gear.
Stuff muffler with cloth.
Squirt oil into each cylinder through spark plug holes and turn the engine by rotating the wheel.
Connect battery to maintainer.
Grease the drive chain heavily and any other corrosion prone parts.
Remove fairings, wash, buff and wax.
Check all bolts for tightness."

And to avoid all condensation do it all on a dry day 50 F or better. Good luck if you waited this long.

Anything else?

Anti-Freeze check isnt on my list due to my mild temps but necessary for those who lie in colder climates.
Unless a person is using Engine Ice I would do a flush and replace it due to the small amount the 14 needs.

I also have had good luck with Sea Foam in my truck in Bristol Bay Alaska. It sits 10 months and has fired right up the past 2 salmon seasons. Its a throttle body injected truck that has had problems. Sea foam maintenance has cured that.
Have ran some through the 14 when I use it on autos. Noticed no change on plugs etc. It does clean up slightly plugged auto injectors. So I figured it wouldnt hurt the 14. Never heard of anyone having problems on 14s though.

A friend suggested the green (marine) Stabil that I use in my home generator for a couple years with no ill affects.

I also fill tank, didnt think to mention it.

I unhook the battery as the 14s computer will drain it. The riding lawn mower gets the Battery tender. I put the tender on before resuming riding. Rarely seen it charge very long unless the battery was in its 3rd season.
If I lived in a cold state I would use a tender on the bike though to protect from freezing. Or store the battery in a warm place.

I have a leather seat cover that gets cleaned and treated too.

Nice thorough and timely thread Rook.

* Last updated by: skiffman on 11/18/2012 @ 9:10 AM *

Damn, that's too much work. Better pack and move somewhere warm!

I can't believe it took so long for one of you southern boys to gloat.

lol I did my best to refrain lol

Wow,,,,, I use to do all that. No longer fog the motor, now just fill to top and seafoam it up,,,(Also love that stuff). If fogging no starting for 5 Months, boooooo.

Whenever possible, bikes get started & run up to temp. I have 2 hear her run, starring at bikes all winter with out the sound of motors running would be to much to bare. Long dark winter hear in the North You know lol,,, A man B needing something ease da mind. Burning fuel is a must. A little whistle from turbo is a God send around Mid February. Even the old whipper sniper gets started,,, more to smell that oil than anything else. Yep ,,, issues.

I can't believe it took so long for one of you southern boys to gloat.

Yep,,, glad there here. What would have to do ???

I put gas in it and ride almost every day.

Winter is always the best time for valve clearance checks, throttle sync and other necessary maintenance. Good tip about lubing the throttle cables. They're the only cables on this bike, so when I do the valves and check the plugs and synch, they'll get a squirt of oil.

Winter storage? What's that? Gotta love the South!!

Winter storage? What's that? Gotta love the South!!

Agreed ! ... Gotta love the Southern Rockies

* Last updated by: Werks on 11/22/2012 @ 10:43 AM *

hello all, new to the forum and has been helpful so far. first day i visited the forum
i found out there was a recall on my 06 zx14 i just purchased on 11/11. question is although
ive done it myself, why fresh oil at the end of the season instead of the begining of the
new season

* Last updated by: sixty40 on 11/24/2012 @ 6:22 PM *

Welcome, sixty40.

I would consider fixing your own recall on the 06. It was just a heavier torque spec on some bolt. Someone around here will know which bolt it is.

The point of changing oil and filter before storage rather than after is that used oil contains corrosive combustion byproducts. Fresh oil should be healthier to sit in an engine over 3 months of storage than the oil you have run the last 1500 miles.

I must wonder however, is it any different to run your bike just 500 miles over 3 months in the summer and not change oil? I doubt most would bother.

I am in favor of changing oil when air temp is a dry 50+ F for storage, then run the motor a minute to circulate fresh oil and do not start again until summer.

Main reason is to avoid condensation in the motor. That, we know will promote corrosion, regardless of what the oil might do. If you do not have 50F weather, I would wait until you do even if it means 2 months of storage on old oil.

I run the oil I store the bike on. Same as 4 qt, 10 oz of oil that might have been stored in a sealed jug out in the garage, as far as I'm concerned. Some dump their storage oil before running in summer. If you do that might as well use a cheap oil that is JASO approved for MC wet clutches.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/24/2012 @ 6:53 PM *

hey rook, thanks for the welcome and the info. look forward to being a part of the forum