Got a question for you guys, my cam chain is making that slapping noise. I ordered a manual tensioner from ape, but after reading a few post i am questioning if uts a good idea to put the manual one in. Any ideas????

Do it....you'll be happy...so will yer cam chain shoes;)

Word of caution.........too tight and it will eat itself up.

It's sorta one of those things you set by experience. If you don't feel confident in your judgment of the tension then get someone who is.

I used the APE on my 06 and it was perfect.

"I used the APE on my 06 and it was perfect"...yup....my 07 went 51K without an adjustment...ever.Was still quiet when I traded her up;).

Rook did an excellent tutorial on this forum, i think its in the how to section but it walks you through step by step, you will not go wrong with it

That would be good..............I've not seen it yet.

After 30yr of wrenching I can take anything apart..........can even put some back together.

So far...I haven't found any 'extra' pieces sitting there after any work I've done....LOL!!!Guess that's a good sign;)

I t is easy to set. Use common sense. You stop when you feel it hit the chain....there is even a way to measure the adjustment before you do it. (see the dowel trick at the end of the tutorial)

APE MANUAL CCT INSTALL AND ADJUSTMENT]

All you have to do is start the motor and listen for the rattle. If you don't hear it, turn the adjuster out until it starts. Then turn the adjuster in until the rattle stops. Back it off a hair and blip the throttle to see if any rattle comes back. If it does, twist it back in a hair. If not, tighten the locknut and you're done.

I'll take the argument of running vs. static.

1. Running* = Pulse adjust ~ Says loose is the final goose ~ Funny Noise Is!

2. Static = Turn the engine in 6th** and hold the back wheel so the crank does not turn in reverse, you have a cam lobe about to be pushed backwards [via valve spring] and cause a loose tensioner side to tighten up, not loosen up.

3. Kiss the slipper arm with the tensioner rod/screw, then turn 1/8th more = This is where the loose side is at the most loose, you didn't tighten down on a pulse that pushed the rear chain back to a tight side as it pulls on the rear side of the cam chain.

* When running, you back off of the tensioner, you have no clue how loose that chain will ride over the cam sprocket and slip timing.
** Spin the rear wheel in N as fast as you can. Simultaneously, pull up on the shift lever to 2nd. If fast enough, you overrode the centrifugal lockout so as to obtain 6th.

Signed,
Happy valve tag/noise is my running setting.