Anyone with risers route it differemtly when using higher bars? Mine is tugging pretty good with convertibars

The design was just enough for the low bars, and lucky you can mount the shims under the bars and still have hose remaining. But anything higher is going to go aftermarket brake/clutch hoses.

First thing for me is sit on the bike, move my fingers straight out, arms comfortable, my wrist to fingers are also relaxed. Where in all this is the lever(s) under my fingers. I now swivel the masters to said comfortable relaxed position are the levers.

That now says, where is my hose(s) in this relaxed or stretched position? Oh man, just a touch more and I am good, but I can't move the housing(s) because the hose is all she wrote. I think I have a Y fitting at the lower steering stem?

For the brake side: I'm going to remove the Y fitting off the stem. I'm going to now move my master in finger position. I now use 3 zip-ties is it? I zip the stem; zip the air gap; meaning I let the Y float between stem and air gap; zip the Y and that hoop made in the middle (air gap) is tight enough to float, not interfere with stem swing left to right, etc.

For the clutch side: I have to move the steel tube off its mount and air-zip that hose to frame rail to air gap so my clutch lever is at my position, not the hoses position that you are working with.

Sounds like it might work with very little hose needed is let the stock hoses now float off the stock mounts, etc.?

Perhaps an easy way out is to remove the top tree along with the clutch hose guide, and reroute the hose behind the tree instead of around the front of it. That may give you the clearance you need. Works with LSL kits.

There is a wire clamp on left side of tree, slide the clutch line out from this clamp, should give enough slack for the bars.

The hose didn't even need to come out of the clamp, it just needed a little more room.