Has anyone here removed their secondary butterfly's for faster response ?

* Last updated by: Hvydrp05 on 2/12/2011 @ 12:40 PM *

Yes... most guys remove them.

Sure. There must be a How-To on here. IMO....not a real necessary n mod with a gen2 but I did it and I'm glad. No harm at all. Once I got the proper mapping, it was a nice improvement in the lower revs.

Can't believe it....there is no simple How-To on flyectomy! There is this

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=9C55AB8E-1372-66AE-3BB688A848CA0540

If you want to remove flies, step one is drain gas tank to reduce weight. Some have just propped the tank or tied it or spun it around backward and set back on frame. IMHO, it is safest to just remove the gas tank and put it somewhere wher it cannot fall. You will need to disconnect two electrical snaps on the back and the fuel line from below.

If you wish to receive further guidance just let me know. I can post here. You will need a brand new #2 phillips screw driver (mine had a black, grit coated tip which helped a lot to grab the tiny screws) and a burnsomatic torch to heat it up. A telescoping magnet tool may also be helpful(but it will stick to the plates and shaft too).

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/12/2011 @ 1:30 PM *

There's a How To with pics HERE.

I ran my bike until it was hot enough for the fan to come on... screws came right out... no need for a torch.

^^^Unless you are a total Newb like i was. If so, there is no way you will get the tank fairing off and the gas tank and then the airbox covers before the motor is cold. No reason not to try but I would advise anyone to take it slow on this. The last thing anyone would want to do is drop a screw down the throttle bodies. If I were to do another flyectomy, maybe I would stick something around the edges of each fly so nothing could fall past the plate. Maybe some light tack tape. Retrieving the screws was very delicate work.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/12/2011 @ 2:23 PM *

I coated the barrels with grease,and had a small rag stuffed on top of each primary.Worked okay for me.

Well actually.... My first attempt involved a couple of soldering irons to pre heat the screws. First screw started to strip. Moved on, second screw same thing. Had to walk away. Did some Googleing and came across the "warm up the bike" suggestion. Hooked the fuel line back up, set the tank back, warmed the bike up, and they all came out like butter. When I removed the secondaries on my 10r, I had everything ready to go except for removing the tank and disconnecting the fuel line... again, butter.

For keeping shit from falling down into the TB's, I just stuck a really strong magnet to the shaft of the screwdriver... and for actually removing the plates, one of them long/flexy magnets worked great.

One more tip... "reset" and give the screwdriver a firm tap between turns.

Flyectomy talk. ... feels like "old times".

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 2/12/2011 @ 5:04 PM *

Mine didn't do what they were SUPPOSED to do.You know,slip right out with the Hot Screwdriver/warmed up engine thing.I warmed the engine...yes.Removed the first 3 screws...carefully yes...then...when Victory was just within grasp...I friggin stripped the last one...it wasn't gonna budge no matter WHAT I did.Out came the drill...yes...the drill.Drilled that last screw head off there(hence,the grease in the barrel(s)).Plate came right out after that...BUT...the teensy tiny shaft of the now cut off screw remains to this day "securely" fastened to the shaft.I quit worrying IF it was gonna fall into the barrel.That was about 40 something thousand miles ago!I did however at one point...when I accidently pushed one of those well nuts into the air box...happen to glance at the rear corner in there while looking for the rubber nut,and noticed a small,amazingly similar looking screw as the fly screws.Surprise surprise!I've NO idea to this day HOW it ended up in there!A tad worrisome at the time,yep.No idea how long that thing had been sittin in there.You know,it COULD have gotten sucked into the throttlebody under the "right" conditions I suppose.

Flyectomy talk. ... feels like "old times".

No idea how long that thing had been sittin in there.You know,it COULD have gotten sucked into the throttlebody under the "right" conditions I suppose.

My bike was out in the unheated garage and it was about 20 F outside. The bursomatic heated up the screwdriver for about 2 minutes...not so that it glowed but so that I could feel the heat in the 9" shaft down by the handle (the #2 phillips should be a 9 incher to reach down in there). That would stay hot for a long time. I just set it in the screw and counted to about 60, I think, and they came out. I started getting bold enough at the end that I even unscrewed 2 on a single heating.

I have heard the recommendation to tap the screwdriver into the slots but I was afraid of bending the shaft. The brand new screwdriver with grit coated tip grabbed very well. No hint of slots stripping at all.

The heat is for softening the locktight on the threads, hvydrp05--if you do not already know about that.

I had one of those flexible shaft magnet tools but found that too be too strong. It stuck to everything including the shaft and it required a bit more force than I wanted use to retrieve those tiny screws. I used the magnet tool on the screwdriver shaft and that made the magnetism more manageable for delicate work.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/17/2011 @ 9:36 AM *

Black1 says: "... it's when you own one then you will understand what it's about."

You need a #2 JIS screwdriver - not a Phillips.

JIS looks much like a Phillips screw, but is designed not to cam out and will, therefore, be damaged by a Phillips screwdriver if it is too tight.

* Last updated by: zoldar on 2/21/2011 @ 9:24 AM *

You need a #2 JIS screwdriver - not a Phillips.

JIS looks much like a Phillips screw, but is designed not to cam out and will, therefore, be damaged by a Phillips screwdriver if it is too tight.

Good info right there!

Yep...Japanese Phillips..yep.

Pulled my flies out on an '07 two days ago. Can;t believe the previous owner never did. Installed the PCIII and had a custom map done yesterday, now rides great, pulls through the range. Still very ridable round town, just more predictable at roll on. The advice on here to remove the flies worked great, only stripped one and had to dremmel which was no biggy and I can;t even hammer in a nail straight.

Good for ya Matt!Now....let's move up another notch,shall we? First off....gearing.16/43.You'll lose some cruising miles...but you'll love the transformation.Very rideable.Second...Rifleman's 1/5th Throttle Mod.Now yer thrust is gonna be virtually immediate,so keep that throttle play there,but not as much as the manual states.Only a tad.Ride er like that for a bit...see what ya think.Simple mods...can be done in just a few minutes.(well okay,perhaps an hour).Worth it IMO.You can easily go back to yer previous configuration if ya don't like it.

On a side note, I recently was in my airbox while removing my TB's for a valve job and noticed a foreign object laying there next to the airhorns. It was the shaft of one of those rubber pluggy thingies they use in the frame like the rubber bumpstops in the frame infront of the tank. I'm not sure if this was sucked in if it would do any harm, but it still terrified me to think that thing had been there for at least 7K miles! So a little look-see just for the hell of it may not be a bad idea if you ever find yourself removing the tank. You just never know what you may find in that huge shoe-box of an air cleaner. The good thing is the airhorns would prolly block anything from just rolling down the bores.

..Crusher! What's up, bro-

It was the shaft of one of those rubber pluggy thingies they use in the frame like the rubber bumpstops in the frame infront of the tank.

I had one of those big well nuts split on me. It's from overtightening the screws that hold down the point of the tank fairing. I've read numerous posts about this. Fortunately I was able to lube with silicone and pull the well nut out without tearing off the interior portion. I ordered a new one and have kept those just almost snug. No more splitting well nuts.

There is stuff that gets in there past the filter somehow. Maybe bugs manage to crawl in and die before they end up inside the motor. There is a small divot behind each inlet duct in the airbox. They seem to work pretty good as a collector for small post ram debris.

I did a little house cleaning this winter. The only stuff in there was in those two pockets. Good design, kawi.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/23/2011 @ 12:45 PM *

yeah the rest prolly went out your tailpipe! lol JK

bio fuel.