... the bike is broken in. Dissected the oil filter this morning. Found so many pink flakes. Where you see thread locker, it's filling up the pleats and I cannot find too many shiny specs. Way less specs than if I hammered the bike from day one.
This time around, I wanted to play with the break-in procedure and followed book to the letter. One reason I stayed in low mode settings was for break-in. One way of finding out how well this bike broke in is to take a compression test.
173 ~ 261 PSI = R
149 ~ 228 PSI = 14
Say I spooled the 14 more than the R, we match about 3,400K miles that I have on it now. Say I would change the diaper [paper towel] catching the filter's spew. Say I cut up a plastic cup, cut it in half, then down the middle with the bottom having a hole the diameter of the hose. My little water bottle catch tank had a paper towel sitting around the hose, under the breather filter off some car. The ones they use for the pcv on top of the old style valve covers.
Now, I just find a drop sitting off the exposed filter. No cut up catch tank this time around it. I haven't filled the crankcase once since the first oil change or monitoring the original level. Buy this time, I was filling the crankcase up between oil dumps on the 14, and this was dumping the oil on average at about 2,700 miles.
That's when I found out how the pep was gone from the bike somehow? Keep it to yourself, but I said, let me check the oil level, something is not right? Sure enough, I had an oil tight engine and not a drop on the ground, sans the catch tank. And I was monitoring that puppy being it was soaked when Cody and his buddies wanted to come out and play.
So the daily spooling there of at least a T0N+ a few times, or at least once before she is sent in the stall all wet, the hard break-in, the loss of oil at the crankcase, the catch tank loss too, I'm about to set the valves. I come away with a cold check of 220-220-210-220 psi. Great numbers against the book, but at what oil loss is that hard break-in cost?
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Segway to the R. No hammering like before. No tons but some you can count on one hand. No oil loss. The original rear tire is not even close to showing a flat spot it needs replacing. I don't know if the drops leaving the breather filter is from the 14 and that [old] oil is being pushed out out of the pleats, being at the angle it is at?
How could I compare if the hard break-in is any stronger than a book break-in? I can't. But the compression will tell me soon enough. And to mix it up a little, today's flavor of the pour into the crankcase is a little left of mobil syn 10w30, a quart of chevron 10w30, a quart of 36yr old vintage torco 50w racing, topped off with delo 15w40. Last pour was straight delo and clutch drag will not be as pronounced. Funny how that goes, but once I fumbled a shift, it's time to change the oil.
My point of this post and thread is to show me how both bikes are broken in as per hard and as per book. I don't know about you, but at plug change time, home he will see how book fares against the book. If I am 8 or 9 pounds off peak, I'll stick with book and stop topping off between rounds. Stay tuned.
wooha'ing it up. What a slag of a bike but still underneath some hidden ponies. 
Was I surprised to see that number. 