I have a 2008 ZX, lowered 2". I recently put my oil plug through the bottom of my pan for the second time within a year. I sent my oil pan off to get it cut down. I re-installed the new shorter oil pan, decided to go to a 16T front sprocket and a new back tire at the same time. I grabbed the clutch while the sprocket cover was off. After it was all re-assembled the clutch was very stiff. Figured out it was the slave cylinder causing the problem. Collapsed it with a C clamp and all seemed to be well again. Wrong, clutch feels great but now I can't get the bike to move in any gear. Did the poor mans bleed on the clutch and still a no go. I can't guarantee I did it correctly. Need some help from you guys who have some experience unlike myself. Thank you for any help you can provide. -Pat

Sounds like you know how to work on the bike. I would take the oil cap off and see if the clutch plates are disengaging when the lever is pulled. If not work back first from the slave then the master cylinder and see what is not correct. Did you bleed both master and slave cylinder?

Good luck ... R

I did bleed both the slave, then master but I can't say for sure that I did it correctly. I didn't get much out of them and the tube I used on them wasn't the best fit even though I tried to zip tie it on. I may need to buy a pump...
Anyways, I took the oil cap off and it moves a very small amount. Maybe an 1/8". I also added a little oil because the initial oil fill was a little low as it was sucked up by the empty filter, etc. I pumped the heck out of the clutch and it moves a little more in first gear but it fights going into second. It tries but clanks, etc. I removed the reservoir cap on the clutch and it spit out some fluid. Cleaned that up, tested again, same results. Should I still attempt the bleeding starting with the lower slave cylinder or is that amount of movement to little to proceed?
-Pat

I can't get the bike to move in any gear.

That means?

1. Running? It grinds if I try to step on 1st or move to 2nd while it idles?

2. Not running? I'm pulling the clutch in but can't get into 2nd with a dead engine?

3. Shorter pan? My pan is touching a gear, but I can't hear the grinding it's that close?

Master bleed. Go up and bleed the top nipple. This gives more lever, which then pushes the rod out farther, which right now, you are touching plates even at that minimum pull. So that's how short a throw is without bubbles in the line.

I would say 1. It is a lower pan but I'm leaning towards more of a clutch type issue vice the lowered pan and 1 describes it very well (although I could be wrong).

Cool. I will try the master bleed.
Man you guys are fast responders!! Thx!!

Buy the Mity-Vac bleeder, for $30 it's a no brainer and you can do the chuth and both breaks in minutes.

I will buy the bleeder tomorrow and hopefully have her back up by the weekend. Thank you all very much!!! -Pat

According to the manual, the procedure is to attach a clear line; open the nipple; pump the lever until there are no more bubbles shown in the clear hose. Then it kind of says, with lever at grip, close nipple.

Titty Tool: I'm going to run around town and waste my money.
Mr. Nipples: I'm going to open my nipple and remove all the queef out of the master.

Titty Tool: I'm going to run around town and waste my, where are my car keys?
Mr. Nipples: I'm all dequeef'd. What did you say? You haven't left yet and I'm done?

Titty Tool: I'm going to run like a bat outta hell and high water I'm going to get me one.
Mr. Nipples: I'm going for a test ride, you need anything?

When you say "Titty Tool" are you referring to my tongue?

Fair warning: my "Titty Tool" doubles as a "Clitty Tool".

When you say "Titty Tool" are you referring to my tongue?
Fair warning: my "Titty Tool" doubles as a "Clitty Tool".

Or the meat hammer can be used as a "Titty Tool".

So I did the bleed. It changed the clutch a little. It moves in first go but really won't go over about 10-15 mph. It has a hard time (clunking) going into 2nd. Any other thoughts besides the clutch/bleeding?
Thx, pat

It still sounds like you're pressure plate isn't disengaging completely. I think there's still more air in the hydraulic circuit. That assumes your seals are viable.

^^^^what he said;)Those Gen1 hydraulic clutch components CAN be finicky sometimes...amazing what a teensy bit of air will do in one of those lines.If what you did is making it better...you're going the right direction;)Remember...when that motor and all heats up...any air is gonna expand in a line...it will(can)effectively work somwhat 'fine 'at a given temp,then go koo koo at another range...just an idea here.I think Hagrid's right on with his comment.I've gone so far as to lean the bike over towards it's right side(against a wall or something...then work the clutch(at operating temps)and rebleed.It did actually work for me doing that once.Got those trapped bubbles up and out of the slave...Might try that?

The book is correct on how to bleed this system and refill and such...BUT...they say to remove the piping to the slave(and remove the slave itself from the sprocket cover housing)...I'm not sure WHY they say to do that..but that definitely has the potential of getting air pulled in behind that seal as you're working on that gear and such.I stopped doing it like that.I just removed the whole shebang and left the slave attached to the cover with piping connected.Once you change that gear out...it becomes very easy to change again without spending a lot of 'extra time' trying to 'get things 'right'.It's quite easy actually...that sprocket change.Only takes several minutes to remove and install once you've done it a couple of times.Having that slave piston sit there free of the cover is a problem waiting to happen.They say to clamp it off.You don't need to do anything with the lever OR clamping that slave piston if you get in there and 'get er done'...All that can stay untouched(the lever and slave piston).NO pumping,no 'banding the lever'...none of that.No opening that line to remove from the slave unit.You find a spot where you can hang that slave/cover unit just out of the way,and ziptie it...then proceed with the sprocket change.No fluid is ever moved or messed with.The line stays full and working.

I don't think your 'pan' has anything to do with your now clutch action.It was created by removing that slave off there to change the gearing.That's MY opinion.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/18/2013 @ 12:27 PM *

I will give it a shot tonight or tomorrow. Thx much. -pat

Just an aside here...the 2nd Gen 14R's...DO NOT allow for the tech to access that slave piston(without removing the inner cover over it)....I took mine off to change the gear...I did NOT see a slave piston anywhere in that case.It's behind an inner cover mounted on the case half itself.I never touched it.It will be visible on your Gen 1 however.