Here are the answers:
A. This is a continuous link chain. If stock, the OEM chain is 116 links. Yes, grind out the link and not count but lay it over the other sprockets, push the axle forward and all that, find where the master will hole link, no winding up using a master and a half link. This is a powerful bike so you take your chances with masters not continuous links.
B. This chain is pre-white-greased. No packing needed, just install grease off the plastic to an the master's pins with it. This is not an OEM chain, correct? Those seals may be for the swing arm of another bike. See how that swing needs lubing?
C. The master pins and link holes need the lube from that package. Squeeze in the holes, rub on the pins and o-rings.
D. 116 is for the 14 and 118 is for the 14R. This would mean, install the new ground off link pins into the new ground off chain and old ground off chain link. You have on continuous open chain, now begin to lace the old chain out and feed the new chain in. Do not make the pin fall out or it won't clear coming around and such.
E. Torque is for thread pitch. On a chain link, it's how wide did I squeeze the pin as it mushrooms out but has a limit before the pin cracks around the limited crush or spreading out of that diameter. As far as the push of the plate in, this is a feel fit because you do not have the link that may read how far the pin comes out of the plate? But if you take the link and move it as like the other links and feel that drag, no hanging up, that is where the plate rests, not collapsing the rings over the rollers in other words, look at the parts and study it.
F. Look at the concave tip at the end of the master's pins. That is all that mushrooming out and it's just enough not to make the pin slide out. The plate shows no excessive-drag against the o-rings and rollers. This will take that whatever that pro-something or something-pro tools have that pin crushing tool.
G. I'm going to force you to step on the squid carpet all red and in the face.
a. I look the squid when I change a front tire and leave the bald rear tire on expecting the same mileage from the front is equal to the rear (baldy). I don't get it or you are thinking like a squid even if you swapped back and left the front alone, it still says I rolled out the dealer door spinning both tires at the same time means equal wear, or STEP to the music with equal miles prove me wrong, see me stepping a toe on that carpet.
b. I am going to rub my hands together, can't tell the other hand was warming up equally with the other, but I'm too much of a squid to think I did not rub down the sprockets equally, now I wipe only half of my ass, here comes the new undies, the shit was I thinking like a squid?
c. I am stepping away from that carpet, I better order new sprockets, I question the chain.
H. If I have the manual, I know my pin to pin measurement stretch, correct?
a. I guessed at the chain, no measurement, I just have this 'feeling' of abuse or I assume you can see something going on there.
b. I did not check. I've ridden enough and seen enough chain wear, don't assume, I didn't think of wearing the chain out, causing a whaa-whaa-hi-low wear effect, my chain should run like a round wheel, not an egg shape spin.
c. I need to sell the chain in this package, eat this as experience, I now waste tool money on sprockets, and if I have the book, I want to buy a torque wrench all in the cheap seats so I get this swing arm back on, no grinding, no special tools but maybe the locking nut, but I have a brass drift and won't miss or I find one by pro-something and use that as the torquing the frame against the swing arm tool, [I don't have the book open].
Signed,
NOLTT (you are half way on that red carpet with the chain alone, nice shoe)
* Last updated by: Hub on 7/5/2014 @ 8:59 AM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time