Okay...there ARE a few tricks you can do to pull that rear part down closer.It's a Connie seat...'slightly' different at the rear there.1)..you can remove the rear bumpers on the sides and very tail.2)the latch mechanism...you CAN(be patient...I actually did this and it will work)...remove carefully that rear hook from the seat pan.Now....carefully take a hammer...flatten that hook out straight(on the cement or floor...whatever)Now....CAREFULLY....rebend that hook..this time...you want the bend to be DOWN farther on the body of it(this raises the eye portion).When your seat is factory installed,the hook rides below the latch when it's on there.It may pull up against the latch under there,but there's still "slack" in the hook eye.You are removing that slack and forcing the hook to always stay tight against the latch.Changing the depth of the eye will effectively do that,and the seat will be pulled down closer.Okay....NOW...take a dremel....grind off the forward plastic "stop" ridge on the hook attachment point on the seat pan.That square area where the hook goes.Now.....check where the hole is on the newly shaped hook.Okay...You want that hook to drop right where it was originally.Since you've now rebent it,that hole is gonna be farther "up"(forward)on the squarish mount point.The removing of the 'front' ridge there will allow you to reposition the hook,a tad bit more forward.Remeber..you need to have the hooking part going back down where it was originally so the latch will catch it just as before.You may need to slightly bend the hook forward or backward,so it will slide into the latch correctly.Doing this will effectively pull the rear portion down.It MAY NOT clasp as the stock seat latch did.You MAY have to lightly but firmly 'bump' the rear part down when you put the seat back on to get the latch to click home.You may have to do this EVERYTIME you reinstall your seat.But it won't hurt anything.You'll hear and see it click home...your rear portion will be snugged up against the fairing work there.It'll look fine.But like I said...the design of the rear pillion IS different with the Connie seat,so it may still have a slight gap right there.
Let me say this right here....BE CAREFUL about installing your seat now with the shorter clearance going on.You do NOT want the seat pan at the center line pushing down hard against that side fairing.Look under your seat there,on either side.Those screws and that tab that connects the front of the rear side fairings on there.Pushing on those(like when you bump the seat into place)could possibly snap that tab at the screw under there.Just be mindful of that.It should be just fine.Just give it a couple of trys,and see how much the pan is touching that area as you reinstall the seat.You shouldn't have any problems if your pan is modded correctly.
You can also do this to help bring it down closer....I did....it will work.You remove the seat.Get a heating torch.DO NOT GO KOO KOO WITH YOU APPLICATION OF HEAT...especially staying in ONE SPOT.Keep a good distance from the underside pan,but heat the rear portion like about a little over HALFWAY back on the pan.Now...Go ahead...with a good grip or whatever,BEND THE SEAT PAN (DO NOT BEND SO IT CREASES OR ANYTHING).But bend that rear part down and hold it.Till she cools off.Then install.See how that brings the rear down some.If not enough..repeat.USE CAUTION WHEN HEATING...you do not want the vinyl on the seat sides melting.Just be careful...Heat till she's pliable,then bend and hold till she cools down.This and the latch mod should give you a really nice looking seat/fairing interface.
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/4/2011 @ 12:39 PM *
here ya go....That first step...that's the pan where the bolt/plate is attached...that plastic square.(looking at it while holding the pan towards you)