I see this tool for sale at $108.00 here:

http://www.motoparthub.com/KM500R_DID_Motorcycle_Chain_Chain_Cut_Rivet_Tool

I think that's the one I want for this 530 chain (X-Ring), and a good price for it.

Yes?

Meb,

For aboot the same price you can have the Motion Pro Jumbo on Amazon.

I strenuously recommend it.

i paid 200 for an EK chain tool. that motion pro jumbo looks just like it. i like this design because of the handle. i hear the DID works just fine without the handle because you use a wrench to hold it. I can't figure out how the DID compresses the pins. How does the chain pass through the tool? That's what makes me a little apprehensive. I heard the DID works well though. just stay away from the little light duty chain tools. they break. takes a lot of torque to press a rivet out.

D: look at the picture of the DID tool. The part opposite the screw slides out of the part with the screw.

The DID tool is a closed press whereas the Jumbo is an open press.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 11/11/2014 @ 6:40 PM *

YA, hag, so I see. I still don't get how a chain passes through a closed press.......aahhhhhhhhh...eureka! now I see how it works! SAme way the closed press works. But after you get the chain rivetted, how the heck would you remove the tool now that it is enclosing the chain? I guess screw slides away from the press. I think I like the open press better. It's all one piece and it won't fall apart while your holding the tool in one hand and the wrench in the other. That's how it seems to me, anyway.

Thanks, guys. It's the open press for me, then.

Seemed to have been the most popular choice when I researched this. Apparently, not a lot of people go with the DID tool but the one comment about it I remember was positive.

Hey Meb I have a chain tool, ek or rk can't remember which one, heavy duty and works great. Anyway your welcome to borrow it if you like. Let me know and I'll have it on it's way.

Have you ever replaced an endless master before Meb?It can be tricky.There's a line imprinted into the link that the plate goes over...before you tighten to mushroom that link,You tighten JUST till the mushroomed part is starting to 'widen' at that line.BE CAREFUL...DO NOT keep tightening that mushroom arm...watch it carefully.The link MUST move freely inside the roller(s)(X ring,and plate surface).Test it with the tightener still attached...grab the links and make sure the plate surfaces are NOT binding against the rollers.That X or 0 ring MUST NOT BE squished in there.The plate must slide freely against that ring.You feel how the other links are free to move...that's how that master must feel.You go too far with that tool...you will crush that x ring...you'll have to replace the link...and start over.

This is 525 chain...but the 530's also come with these parts...see the two double 'U' shaped deals?Those go between the roller surface and the inside of the plate surface...over the o rings.They stop the tool from squishing the rings....this is you best bet for getting this tightened right the first time.You can't damage the rings using these little spacers.You remove them once the line in the link is correctly mushroomed...which it will be using these.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/12/2014 @ 10:01 PM *

^^+1 on the rivet spacers. That handy lil contraption is enough reason to buy an EK chain all by itself. My EK ZZZ also came with a feeler gauge to test the diameter of the mushrooms. Using both of these, you CAN'T get the rivetting too loose or too tight. If you haven't looked at my Sprockets/ Chain replacement tutorial, check it out. There's pics of the spacers and the gauge so you can see how they work.

Hey Meb I have a chain tool, ek or rk can't remember which one, heavy duty and works great. Anyway your welcome to borrow it if you like. Let me know and I'll have it on it's way.

That's very kind of you, very generous. I love you guys...

I own 4 chain drive cycles. I bought a tool. (My wife says I *am* a tool, but thats another thread ;)

Have you ever replaced an endless master before Meb?It can be tricky.There's a line imprinted into the link that the plate goes over...before you tighten to mushroom that link,You tighten JUST till the mushroomed part is starting to 'widen' at that line.BE CAREFUL...DO NOT keep tightening that mushroom arm...watch it carefully.The link MUST move freely inside the roller(s)(X ring,and plate surface).Test it with the tightener still attached...grab the links and make sure the plate surfaces are NOT binding against the rollers.That X or 0 ring MUST NOT BE squished in there.The plate must slide freely against that ring.You feel how the other links are free to move...that's how that master must feel.You go too far with that tool...you will crush that x ring...you'll have to replace the link...and start over.

No, I've never done this before.

This is *great* advice. I would not have known this otherwise. Thank You Vey Much.

Rook, may I suggest this become incorporated into the sprocket / chain replacement How To? I dont remember reading this particular point, and Grn makes the point crystal clear about what to do, and why.

Excellent work.

* Last updated by: mebgardner on 11/13/2014 @ 7:53 AM *

^^+1 on the rivet spacers.

I see the spacers. If they come with the chain, then they're probably re-useable.

Wanna sell me a spare set of spacers?

"If they come with the chain, then they're probably re-useable"...yup...they are;).IF you have these spacers...then my advice about tightening and squishing probably doesn't really apply...The mushroom width is really only about 20 thousandths across.The link unworked is about 200 thousandths across.So your total width when mushroomed is right about 220 thousandths.You DO NOT want to go for.."flattened mushroomed pin tip".Like you see with the other links...Only that small amount of flare.There's a VERY GOOD video on Youtube about using the Motion Pro chain riveting tool.

He mentions about NOT grinding off the factory link tips to remove that outer plate.I grind mine off...makes getting that link pushed through and out MUCH easier.Once ground off...tapping the inside plate with a screwdriver will be VERY easy and you can pull that link out with yer hands.But to each his own;)You won't be using the link(or plate)again anyway.

IDK where other guys place that tool along the chain run to do this...but I've always put the chain on the sprocket,and worked the tool from the top and a bit rearward.I guess it's a matter of preference really..but the sprocket way eliminates any flexing of the chain when yer torquing down on the rivet tool.You can do this with the bike on the sidestand placed in 1st gear to avoid any moving front to back of the sprocket coupled with a wheel chock(piece of 2X6 or something).Roll the bike till it stops(in 1st)..chock the rear wheel(at the back)...and go for it;)
NOTE: apply the link grease liberally on the link pins before installing!!!!!!This becomes your "factory sealed" lube when assembled.

It's VERY IMPORTANT when flaring the link tips...that the rivet pin is NOT sticking out past the pin holder piece(the part of the tool you have the hex flats on for tightening).That(pin tip) should be almost flush with the last thread on that barrel.That's your depth thing(you'll see the the ID of the barrel allows the link to go 'in' further than the OD threads...the barrel will stop the pin from going in too far and getting too wide a flare.Sounds 'complicated' maybe...it's not once ya see how the tool is set up.You do NOT tighten the pin(some have a hole for inserting a small bar(or screwdriver shaft)for adjusting the pin length(for pushing the link out).You adjust the barrel(tighten) with the hex(open ended) wrench to flare the link tip.The pin stays where you set it.The pin is strong but BRITTLE.It can snap...so get it adjusted first before tightening the barrel.You flare it but turning THE BARREL...NOT the rivet pin.You'll be torqueing pretty hard it'll seem...that's normal.

I know...I'm long winded;)Just don't want to hear you snapped the pin or flared it too much...that's a PITA to have to do all over.Once ya do this deal...you'll get it totally.

this is the one I use.It does come with a pin and the flaring anvil.50 bucks at MotionPro site.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/13/2014 @ 10:15 AM *

The spacers with the EK ZZZ should prevent squashing the plates together too tightly. The gauge prevents undersquashing of the rivet head. The difference between the diameter of the pin before and after squashing is pretty noticeable from what I recall. It's got to be more than 20/1000 inch increase, I'd say.