Jlewis02, maps have been sent. Please DO NOT RUN AUTO TUNE with stock AFR table if you do

You will see in Map # 2 the AFR table is of my own design and will put you in the Zone. This is the most important step right now. More work to follow later.

The object for you wright now needs to be keeping the sensor in the Zone. What I mean by this is if you see 10 or 18 Auto tune will not be able to adjust,,,, it's blind. Get Out of Throttle and adjust manually.

Keep me in the loop we fix as you go. Have Fun, cheers.

Im running 7psi and 54psi of fuel pressure as my duty cycle was over 90% with 42psi its at 84% duty cycle now.
I have the auto tune set at 13.5 off boost and 11.8 on boost.
I started with my brocks map and added 20% to the 60-100% TP and it has added even more as I ride it afr has never gone over 13.2 on boost as soon as I see it climbing I get out of it so I dont hurt the motor.
It is at 11.5 afr at full boost and injectors are at 84% stock 330cc for now I have 725cc injectors ordered.
I took your ihi map and loaded it and all it did was sputter at any throttle over 60% so I mixed your low and mid with my high and its alot better its still stuttering but not near as much.

* Last updated by: jlewis02 on 4/22/2012 @ 6:33 PM *

Im running 7psi and 54psi

Do you have a rising rate regulator or constant 54 psi. Keep in mind My Fuel pressure is much higher so map will be off.

I have 725cc injectors ordered.

725 cc injectors, Huge, may not idle.

so I mixed your low and mid with my high and its alot better its still stuttering but not near as much.

When bike sputters what is your AFR. Send me your Map after a run. Do Not except changes. I need to see what Auto Tune recommends and where. This Tells me volumes.

Any pictures ?

* Last updated by: Romans on 4/22/2012 @ 9:50 PM *

I have a turbosmart fpr 800 its a 1:1
725cc will be too big for what I have at the moment?
I will get the map tomorrow after work it should have alot of autotune stuff on it.

Jlewis, got your Map that you are tuning from. You must STOP at once. I will send you PM as well, not sure where you will look first so I will try both.

There can be no 13.6 AFR #'s in you table while in boost. At least install my AFR table or make all AFR # s 11.5 above 3500 to get you started. Don't ride it any more like it is. Map is way too lean.

I have your afr table loaded

Looks like you need to kick in the accel mode with a constant 13 afr. It should plunge like an old accelerator pump, smash that afr number to 11.5 afr, or at least to that number.

I have your afr table loaded

It is not shown in the Map you sent me. Did you just do ? Your bike will be in boost at 3500 to 4000 RPM and Auto tune is already removing Fuel from the Brocks map due to AFR Table. Brocks Map installed is crisp already.

that afr number to 11.5 afr, or at least to that number.

Hub, if jlewis makes all numbers 11.5 in his AFR table Auto Tune will get him to safe Zone. Currently, most def is not the case. with our bikes RRFPR is not increasing pressure as fast as boost rises. So the 40% Throttle Position colume needs big #'s added in this area then drops as fuel pressure rises.

I sent you my newest and its still too rich down low but it is almost perfect everwhere else.
Fuel pressure is at 58lbs right now

* Last updated by: jlewis02 on 4/23/2012 @ 8:19 PM *

I also have a busa and hang out at hayabusa.org. Frank from Powerhouse over there who's a pretty good turbo tuner who sells and installs turbo's, said not to use auto-tune on a turbo bike...its a big no-no? I just assumed trying to use an auto-tune to tune something as fast changing as afr's on a turbo bike would be trouble, so I never even considered it. I think he said something similiar about their ability to adjust efficiently. I've also heard from others auto-tune is a no-no for a turbo bike?
Also Romans do you think we could swap maps between 06-07 and 08-11 14's, and between pcv's and pcIII's? You've really dived into the turbo tuning, I respect your go for it attitude I haven't been quite as brave You are inspiring tho....

said not to use auto-tune on a turbo bike...its a big no-no? I just assumed trying to use an auto-tune to tune something as fast changing as afr's on a turbo bike would be trouble, so I never even considered it.

Here is my thoughts on this, people believe Auto Tune is plug and play and it most certainly is not. That's where the trouble comes in. From all accounts if jlewis can get my AFR table to Repair his map then the map becomes his own made by him, at his sea level, for his set up, on his bike. What could be better ?

Ok, next the 02 sensor,,,, is it different than the ones on the Dyno ? Software from the Dyno's computer, is it different ?

So, now comes down to the tuner or user with little or no experience with his new toys(me). Danger zone. From what I can see 4 sure is the RPM climbs to fast for the Bosch sensor to see the readings it's looking for. This becomes clear in the recommended trim values. It's Blind. ZERO is Blind.

On the Dyno, the operator goes to 4th gear and holds it to wide open throttle. This slows down the RPM climbing rate & allows the 02 sensor to get good readings as he performs multiple runs to confirm the different throttle positions.

OK, in comes Auto -Tune, what we do on the street is gas on gas off at all TPS positions. Then go in and except Trims,,,,Now your Map is Junk. Look yourself at the green TPS highlighted block in the software as it moves across the board,,,, Mapping like this will give bad results.

If you go to wide open throttle then to 80% 60 % 40 % to all TPS positions in a taller gear this will slow down your RPM climb rate and you can open the Eyes of the sensor.

But if you touch the throttle just once on the RPM wind down the readings you have just made will be changed and all you have just made is lost. Make sense ? I have hundreds of tests to prove.

So who goes from wide open to zero ????? No One, so the maps made are crap. IMO, I would take a Dyno proven map any day. But if you use Auto Tune exactly as a Dyno Operator does, Results are Nice. Proof = My AFR Gauge matches my Auto Tune trim #'s. I have found a way to make it work, this means anyone can,,,, baby steps think and study.

This is how I'm doing it. Please add to thread if anyone has more to offer. I'm only trying to help, no flaming please lol.

I sent you my newest and its still too rich down low but it is almost perfect everwhere else.
Fuel pressure is at 58lbs right now

I will study when I get home from work. Cheers.

Also Romans do you think we could swap maps between 06-07 and 08-11 14's, and between pcv's and pcIII's? You've really dived into the turbo tuning,

The map I began working with was the imported PC3 Map for your VF22 as the IHI VF34 map I had been given would not run off boost. Extremely lean, So after many hours playing gave up and just built my own. It still holds true that what works for one does not work for the other. Your welcome to take a look and do a map compare if you want. All you need is to down load the PCV software.

Romans thanks for the explanation on the auto-tune...makes perfect sense If you don't mind sending me you're latest map I'd love to compare. I'll download the pcv software. My e-mail is sir_chatalot@msn.com

Romans, would you mind sending me the map you have for the vf34 mine seems to need to be far weaker than wirh vf22 map thanks
Grin
adgrindrod@aol.com

Maps Sent

Romans thanks for the explanation on the auto-tune...makes perfect sense

Tried to say the most with the fewest words. Big subject. Bad what sea level are you at ?

mine seems to need to be far weaker than wirh vf22 map thanks

The PCV has the ability to remove fuel in large sections of the Map. Under Map Tools,,, I think. Great feature for cleaning up the bottom end of a bad map. Take a look

I got the map decent its showing afr all the time now but I cant floor it with out it stuttering like crazy till about 4k then it moves out good.

I got the map decent its showing afr all the time now but I cant floor it with out it stuttering like crazy till about 4k then it moves out good.

Yep, I know. All good. Now we start over. All info I have 2 go by is what you tell be so we must go slow.

If you are now between the 10 & 18 in the AFR scale lets pull down your Fuel pressure. Send me your last run.

* Last updated by: Romans on 4/26/2012 @ 7:04 PM *

I will need bigger injecters if I lower the fuel pressure too much thery are already at 84%
I will send the latest map probably saturday as I have alot of stuff to do tomorrow and the bike is locked up already.

Romans sent you an e-mail

Sent reply with another map for your set up, let me know what you think

Romans, one for you again.
Whats new ?,
Ive been a bit busy lately, ridden the bike a bit but not alot ,and certainly no time to look at the mapping.
We spoke some time ago about reducing fuel pressure to 35psi, have you continued with this pressure or moved on again. Have you had any success with it?

If so what map did you start with and would you mind sending it for me to look at,maybe try.....please
(second back tyre almost done...........:) )
Cheers Grin

We spoke some time ago about reducing fuel pressure to 35psi, have you continued with this pressure or moved on again. Have you had any success with it?

Long story in playing, but the coles notes is Yes, lots of success with 35 psi in bottom. Smookin fast and smooth with no more little studders in the bottom end. AFR in bottom perfect. Bike runs exactly the same as any other ZX14 street bike off boost and is a beast when turbo hits. Finley, best of both worlds. First gen Fuel pump played a big role in making me nuts but all good now. Always learning.

If so what map did you start with and would you mind sending it for me to look at,maybe try.....please

Sure no problem. I just moved so I still have do not have my email working but soon.

Keep in mind My top end is all diff now as my fuel pressure is over 90 psi, so top end will be lean.

No worries, I moved not long ago and the jobs are never ending!
I am currently experimenting with a 1bar barometric pressure sensor that we use on our aston martin race cars.(magneti marelli)
As I am only boosting to 6psi and may choose later to try 8psi its only at 0.55bar a 3 bar map sensor is only at 1/6th of its max ie a very small portion of its total capability and not too acurate......
Hence I would like to use a sensor which uses more of its scale to get a good change in voltage and hopefully a better map.......what do you reckon ?

Grin