Here is a link to my old thread from a year ago.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=228CC48B-D56B-84E2-10BFC7D9457F0EA1&searchTerm=Carros&page=1

Sprocket Studs
The latest is the sprocket. I painted it orange and got aluminum nuts for it. The AFAM sprocket fits fine but there is something weird about the sprocket studs on the Carro. It comes with M10 x 1.25 thread nuts which seem to thread on the studs quite stiffly. Not quite binding, but not even close to smoothly turning on the threads. I could NOT spin these on too far with my fingers. I'd need a wrench. CZ tech said that the studs are made of very hard steel. That may be so but seems to me they should still thread smooth enough to draw the nuts up by hand.

The Pro-Bolt Sprocket nuts I got for the CZ rim were so hard to start on the threads of the sprocket studs that I decided it better to not use them. Pro-Bolt sprocket nuts are high quality and they easily thread on a 1.25 pitch bolt. They will not even start on the CZ sprocket studs. I forced one just a bit and discovered some tiny steel flakes that were sheared off of something. I ordered Driven Sprocket nuts which are all aluminum but I do not know if I can use those with the CZ rim because the CZ torque spec is 70 - 80 ft lbs which is too much for aluminum threads. That torque may be required for proper functioning of the CZ cush drive or some other aspect of performance. I'm waiting to hear from CZ Tech help. They have been very good about giving advise and info about their product.

Here is my problem, the Pro-Bolt sprocket nuts have a helicoil insert made of steel so that they will withstand high torque. As you can see, the steel threads have a sharp step that will not easily start into the threads on the CZ stud. I will be attempting to dremmel the step smooth. That was what was suggested by the CZ tech and it might solve the problem.

CZ nut and ProBolt nut

Aluminum Pro-Bolt nut with steel heli-coil insert

Here's a pic of the sprocket and wheel. I'l post pics and explain the painting process after this nut deal is tackled. Also, i have been doing some very delicate dremmeling to make Bridgeport valve stems seal properly on these rims and I'll post an explanation of that or an admonishment based on how successful I am in getting that to work. Think it will be fine.

CZ rim with painted AFAM sprocket and anodized gold sprocket nuts (that I dare not thread on).

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/13/2013 @ 2:51 PM *

lookin good rook. youd think cz would market their own sprocket nuts for their wheels. ok so whats the thought process for the orange sprocket? wont that be the only orange on your bike? must sat though it does look good against that blue wheel. youll have to put a few more orange accessories on that baby now lol like a orange stabilizer

I am ready to get these babies on the 14.

Rook I'm going to install while you sleep,,,, Address Please

youll have to put a few more orange accessories on that baby now lol like a orange stabilizer

Rook I'm going to install while you sleep,,,, Address Please

First things first. sprocket nuts. Next, valve stems.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/13/2013 @ 7:39 PM *

Thing that really sucks is if they don't hold air well enough, I'll have to tear the brand new tires off to replace the valve stems.

I jammed a balance bead in one of mine, tire went flat 150 k later, schrader valve leaks slowly to this day. Point is I feel your pain. You have had those puppies a long time, can't wait to see them installed.

You have had those puppies a long time, can't wait to see them installed.

Looking forward to seeing this finished project!

C

1 YEAR! WOW I'm so impatient with mine, the wife said my mood did a 180. I was happy like a pig in Doodoo when I clicked on check out. Now I'm like where are the rims lol
I'm having the OEM one removed from the bike on Tuesday though I should probably get the tools to do the job myself. They're will be for sale next week even if my BST's are still MIA.

By the way Rook, for $150 you can get a custom made supersprocket @motowheels.com. I went with Renthal.

By the way Rook, for $150 you can get a custom made supersprocket @motowheels.com. I went with Renthal.

You mean SuperSprox? Nice for ware and pretty light weight

hmmm, I have two of them. First thing I thought when I picked them up was Heavy.

^^^Oh? I was just assuming they were on the lighter side. I hope they are at least middle of the road between OEM and the all aluminum sprockets.

Supersprox have a hardened outer ring attached to an aluminum carrier held together with stainless steel rivets. The were formerly known as Stealth Tri-Metal sprockets and the rivets were titanium. They weigh something in between a hardened steel sprocket and a forged aluminum sprocket. The one I had on my old ZZR 1200 (totalled) wore out two chains and still looked new with several thousand miles on the 3rd. Since the previous owner of this bike had installed a +3 rear (which made the throttle like a light switch), the first thing I did was cut and shorten the chain and install a Supersprox with the stock number of teeth. The bike may wear out before the sprocket does.

I think anodized Gold would be a better look. Anodized Gold goes with anything.

I agree, DK. But I had this afam sprocket and it had a gray finish. I am using gold paint on some of the bolts around the wheels but it does not look good enough to paint a whole sprocket, I don't think. Not nearly as rich and warm as anodized gold. IDK why they can use such beautiful pigments to anodize gold but even the high quality spray paint looks pale and dull by comparison. I actually am considering using faux gold foil to gold leafing the bolt heads. Paint is good on the bolts for now but perhaps not good enough for a whole sprocket. The orange is something I had to try since that is a new element I have going in the scheme. By my own admission, the bike is getting rather complex, asthetically speaking. Busy. Orange lines, sprocket and engine covers, blue anodized parts, those big bright polished rearsets, white stripes, Ford blue on the formans and fender plus gold bits sprinkled throughout. Thuis will be interesting. Tatsteful, IDK??? ...but interesting.

who cares as long as it is fast!@

I didn't know you had that many colors...
Look up the Viper ZX-14 on youtube. Think it would look awesome. The wife says, I just received the renthal, I'm going to weight it on Monday and see how light/heavy it is. I also went with a renthal chain, I already dropped it at the shop but if I have time on tuesday, I'll pick it up and weight it. When can get a really good/accurate scale for measurement? I don't feel like going to the Post Office for every parts.

drag on the wall at your local post office they have 2 different size digital scales displayed that they sell prices arent too bad either

usps scale

Thanks Scott, I'll be checking them out!

Look up the Viper ZX-14 on youtube.

Back to sprocket studs on the CZ rims. I just got my all T-6 aluminum Driven sprocket nuts. They look great but to my dismay, they are a little heavier than Pro-Bolt. More to my dismay, they do not seem to thread on any easier than the Pro-Bolt nuts. I guess if I have to force a nut on there, I would rather force an all aluminum one like the Driven rather than a steel thread insert one like the Pro-Bolt. However, The Driven nuts are l only good for a max of 29 ft lbs. I would not be surprized if I hit 29 ft lbs of torque just getting them started on these goofy studs.

Carrazeria did not reply to my last email where I asked if their 70-80 ft lb tq spec was for safety or for wheel performance. I'm guessing it is for safety and they do not want to discuss undertorqueing to avoid liability issues. [EDIT 06/18/13: the CZ installation directions recommend 35 ft lbs of torque for the sprocket nuts. I am not sure what the 70-80 ft lb spec is about. Perhaps that is the spec for the sprocket bolts that thread in from behind the carrier or maybe it was a typo. 70-80 ft lbs is much too tight for the sprocket nuts.]

I will contact Pro-Bolt and ask him if he has any ideas on hoe to make the Pro-Bolt nuts thread on better. I'm thinking about trying to loosen up the Pro-Bolt helicoil insert by cutting it with a a thread tap. I'd rather ruin the nuts than the studs. If all else fails, I can still use the CZ nuts....but that will be a BIG bummer.

Pro-Bolt, Aluminum with steel thread insert and 16mm hex

Driven, all aluminum but longer and thicker flange with 17 mm hex

Carrazzeria nuts, all steel

You know, I am having forum deja vu. I swear I read a thread about this exact issue back in 08. Some guy complaining because the sprocket studs on his CZ rim were somehow pitched weirdly. Could not fit aftermarket nuts. Now I am reliving the whole thing for myself. I think he ended up replacing the studs with other 1.25mm pitch studs. I'm not about to go that far. I have to ride soon.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/18/2013 @ 5:59 PM *

"Carrazeria did not reply to my last email"....you too huh?

I'll NEVER deal with them again.

they've been very good about other questions but I think this sprocket nut stud sitiation is a sore point....I'm guessing. Anyway, sent Pro-Bolt a message and will post the answer ASAP.

ROOK'S BIKELAND STUD THREAD THREAD

Looks like I will be just painting the CZ nuts gold and using them for the first tire on the rear of the CZ rim.

CZ makes their threads a little tight and apparently aftermarket nuts are a bit tight too. I got an M10 x 1.25/mm stainless steel nut to thread on at least half way with very little effort. After the first eighth inch, there is so sort of coating on the stud threads and a nut that is a couple thousandths/inch tight will not go on.

I'm now addicted to Pro-Bolts so I will most likely spend $77 to buy a set of titanium sprocket carrier bolts (if I can find a set that will fit a CZ rim) and replace the CZ bolts and the CZ nuts...but not until I use the wheels for a while. There are too many other issues to address to continue fcussing all my attention on sprocket nuts. So I'll break out the can of gold Valspar and paint the CZ nuts after the sprocket is installed. kind of a bummer but I gotta get going on mounting the tires so that I can see if the valve stems I moddded hold air. ....stay tuned for that.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/20/2013 @ 3:56 PM *

Nut problem solved.

Seems CZ ha something similar to spec#4 threads which are used on aircraft to prevent accidental loosening of bolts. Spec #4 will NOT go on by hand but they go on without too much extra effort using a wrench. You'd swear they were the wrong thread by the way they feel with fingers.

So I am using the Pro-Bolt nuts. I actually tapped one about halfway through. Still works. Was not necessary. Bunch of monkey business for nothing. Tapping caused the helicoil insert to turn in the nut but still useable.

Here. Look at the mirror finish on that sprocket!!! Polished with 3M scratch remover and my own fingers!

Here is something a little extra. White wheel tape. You like?

I don't like the white wheel tape... Too much going on imo, but that orange is growing on me, still waiting to see how it will look on the bike!

Well...you did a GREAT job of installing that tape....I'm not really into wheel taping myself....I wouldn't on my wheels....but it may look very nice on your 'new' baby...we'll see....your stuff is always tasteful....so it'll most likely look good;)

What matters is what YOU like....it does kinda break up the blue rim there...which...IMO...takes away from the wheel...but....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/10/2013 @ 7:51 PM *