I've been experiencing what seems like surging in the higher RPMs when rolling on the throttle up to 100 percent throttle in 4th/5th gears. It's as if my rear tire is spinning but after the surge at about 9K RPM the bike continues to accelerate up to redline.

So I decided to inspect my clutch pack to see if I need to replace it and wanted your opinion based on the embedded pics on whether or not it's time or not, and that maybe this is the source of the surge(slipping)that I've been experiencing.

Thanks in advance!

You need to pull the clutch pack, inspect and measure to
see it they are within specs.

Have you done the Brocks clutch mod?

What brand of oil are you using?

No clutch mod and I use Mobil 1 4T full synthetic oil

I concur with piken, pull the plates out, find the burned fibers, replace. Stack the steels in the palm, look around for the ones that show a gap. Notice how the steels face, meaning, you'll see the cut sides facing the pressure plate. Assemble those cuts facing you. Fibers not so much.

The tight pocket move is to change what is warped or burnt.
The more 'do it right once' is to replace all to new.

Watch this.....

There's also a few other Brocks clutch how to's

However you get videos to post here ......

https://youtu.be/_YFqq5kI-fw

Brock Clutch vid

* Last updated by: piken on 8/23/2023 @ 4:19 PM *

Thanks guys!

Well I had a Trac King clutch pack lying around and decided to replace the oem clutch pack. OMG!! They are a piece of S**T. Immediately it was slipping from the get go...just a blip of the throttle and it was slip city. I was hitting the rev limiter and wasn't going nowhere. I brought it back to the house and figured that maybe I installed the judder springs incorrectly and low and behold I had the concave ring installed first...whew! So I reassembled everything correctly...fiber with larger pads first, steel, skinny fiber ring, flat judder ring first, then the concave ring next facing outward. Finished installed went for a ride and the same darn results! Slip slip slipping with the slightest throttle input. Back to the house, disassembled and then I see the posts on this thread....inspected the stock fibers which look good...as a matter of fact the pads on the stock fibers were just about as thick as the new ones. Inspected the steels and many of them had scoring or burn like marks on them, so I decided I will use the stock oem fibers and replace the steels with the ones from the Trac King pack. Finished reassembly and took it for a ride and oh boy....she scats like a scalded cat!

Lesson learned....stick with OEM instead of trying to save a few bucks.

This is how most of the steels looked that I replaced with new ones.

Well I had a Trac King clutch pack lying around and decided to replace the oem clutch pack. OMG!! They are a piece of S**T. Immediately it was slipping from the get go...just a blip of the throttle and it was slip city.

Hopefully you soaked the fibers and plates in oil before installing and not dry?

Glad you found a good combo that's working. Still might want to get
stronger springs from Brock or full clutch mod

* Last updated by: piken on 8/23/2023 @ 5:33 PM *

Thanks Piken. Yes I soaked the fibers and steels prior to install.

Back to provide an update to the Trac King clutch pack experience I wrote about last month about them slipping. Right after that post back in August I ended up replacing the steels and reused the original oem fibers. I was bored today and was still puzzled as to why the Trac king fibers introduced so much slippage, so I decided to reinstall them today. Immediately afterwards they slipped as before. Scratching my head and inspecting the fibers closely I noticed on one side there are numbers/letters engraved on the fiber's flanges. When I flipped the fiber and inspected the other side no such engravings exist. So I decided to do the install again with the stamped/engraved side of the fibers facing outwards...buttoned everything back up and by gosh she's pulling like a beast! On every install prior to this I was just installing the fibers in the direction in which I picked them up and I'm pretty sure they were randomly stacked as it relates to the stampings being located on one side. I'm not sure is this is a Trac King thing or if this applies to all fibers, but I was at a lost until I tried this method out. BTW...the OEM fibers have the same engravings on them as well and I noticed that I had installed them with the engravings facing outwards only because when I first pulled them out I placed them in the same order and direction as they were originally installed. This explains why each time I went back to the OEM fibers the slipping was gone.

Hope this helps someone else who decides to tackle this task and run into the same issue as I did.

Thanks

Siroht any thoughts on contacting Trac King and seeing if they verify your findings?

If nothing else, like if they say "nope, doesn't matter" good tip for someone to try if they experience similar issues.

I was going to provide another update today but you beat me Vic. Well last night I was doing some 4th gear 100% throttle pulls from 4000 Rpms to redline and everytime it hit 9000K it shot straight to the limiter. Back to the drawing board. I followed the install instructions to the tee from Ricky Gadson’s YouTube video on the same clutch pack for the 14R. Searching more I ran into Rooks gen I clutch install tutorial and I saw that the steels should be installed with the rounded edge facing the engine. I’m pretty sure that I installed them randomly because Ricky didn’t mention this in his video tutorial. I’m in the garage now breaking everything back down and noticed that sure enough some of the steels were facing inward and outward. Once I reinstall everything back together with the rounded edge of the steels facing inward, I’ll head back out and test again and will report back.

I hope rearranging the plates does it for you. That rounded edge orientation pointer was provided to me by Hub years back. If I recall, all my steels were installed with the correct side facing out at the factory and that's how I put them back in.

I was noticing my clutch slip at high rpm just like you but it wasn't the clutch plates. It was a poorly fitted aftermarket lever. The push pin to the master cylinder was wedged against the lever instead of seated in the bushing. The clutch was slightly disengaged all the time, even without touching the lever. What you described sounds just like what I experienced. I removed the lever and put the OEM one back on and it was fine. Later switched to Pazzo levers which worked fine too but you really need to take those apart once a year and clean them. The dust builds up and the bushing sticks. If bushing cant roll as you pull the lever, I could see that causing a similar problem to not having the pin seated in the bushing hole.

Hopefully this is the final update to my clutch pack issues.

Followed Rook's tutorial but this time I used the Trac King's fibers and steels. I made sure that all steel's rounded edges were facing inward and as far as the fiber plates, I ensured that the side with the stampings were all facing the same direction...in my case outwards. One note and something I did different because Rook mentioned it in his tutorial but it wasn't mentioned in Ricky Gadson's video, was that I lined all the fiber plate flanges up with the middle finger, and the very last fiber was lined up in the notches flanking the middle finger.

Ride report after this installation:

Bingo!! The bike is definitely pulling like a freight train, particularly in 4th gear roll-ons from 4k rpm up to redline. I repeated it 3 or 4 times on my secret back road strip and not once did the RPMs spike to redline or the limiter mimicking tire spin. Prior to this install I was under the impression that my installs went fine because I was running through the gears and shifting normal up to and through redline. However, I see that the real test is to put the bike in 4th/5th gear and start from a low RPM and roll the throttle to 100% to see how the ramp up behaves. I'm aware that most of the times one wouldn't notice if the clutch is slipping because some either don't ride their bikes up to redline or ride in the manner that I mentioned by rolling on the throttle to 100% TPS in 4th/5th gear. I wish I had ran across Rook's tutorial when I first started down this path, because i would've saved myself a ton of time and unnecessary breaking down and reinstalling of the clutch pack. Some times it's the fine fine details that are overlooked but play a major role in the grand scheme of things. If I were to ride my bike in a tamed manner I would've never known that my clutch pack was installed incorrectly prior to this las install. Oh and I installed new EBC HD springs so hopefully I'm all good for the time being.

Also I'm still running the stock levers, but I did check to make sure that the pin was fully seated and it was.

Thanks Rook!

* Last updated by: siroht on 9/23/2023 @ 9:08 AM *

Glad we could help out siroht. I know there are some differences in installing your Gen2 clutch to my Gen1. Hopefully one day I'll get Gen2 tutorials rolling out. but for now, it looks likely that I'll be continuing the Gen1 tutorials in the very near future.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/23/2023 @ 9:44 AM *

Good to hear siroht. Rook makes a great point, definitely a great tip for anyone who drives manuals of any sort. The "best practice" in an auto is not to even be touching the clutch pedal unless you are shifting. The nature of bikes, I feel like there's a difference between resting fingers on the lever, compared to resting a foot in an auto (or whatever with a pedal). IE, even the slightest pressure will increase clutch wear. Certainly on bikes like these it doesn't take much to abuse a clutch.