Stock DID 50ZVZ 116 pins, (2 connecting pins are stuck in ends of chain)

EK ZZZ 118 pins

Stock chain 116 pin, 90.3 oz 90.3 : 116 = .7784 oz/link
EK ZZZ chain 118 pin, 91.9 oz 91.9 : 118 = .7788 oz/link

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2011 @ 11:45 PM *

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Well, Rookster, maybe by lightening they were referring to the weight it would have been without the pinholes not compared to another chain. The ZZZ IS supposed to be beefier than the ZVZ, correct?

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Everyone sais the ZZZ is a great chain. It is called a non stretch chain. If I recall, the literature claims that the chain is stronger than an unmentioned competitors chain but the lightening holes make it over an ounce lighter-------so you may be right about the weight comparison being ZZZ with holes to ZZZ w/o holes.

A BL member suggested it could be the grease in the chain that weighs an extra 1.5 ounces on the new ZZZ. Could be true. But I will be weighing in again and trying a DID on the busa when the time comes...but that is a long way off.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/28/2011 @ 1:56 PM *

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I get really confused when I start to think which chain brand I will go with because I can never remember which was best. Or maybe because they were all relatively simalar. My 907 GSXR didn't make monster power and I ran Tsubakis all the time just because it was affordable and never let me down yet. I was always losing the master link clip however which is something I'd like to avoid in the future with a riveter once I make my mind up on a brand. As far as the EK and DID, what are the differences in price?

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I wasn't shopping price , really. The EK ZZZ was most widely recommended so I went with that + someone tipped me off to a good deal on Ebay. A 130 pin was $172. I wasn't sure how many links extra I would need going to 17/45 gearing so I got it but I think the price was about same or less than 120 pins (I just got the chain riveted last night and I went with 118 pins which is same as stock chain length.

I was always losing the master link clip however which is something I'd like to avoid in the future with a riveter once I make my mind up on a brand.

I was a little worried about doing the chain work myself. After seeing the amount of force required to drive those pins through the outer plate, I am confident they will never come out. After all, they are riveted on the outside and fit tight as heck in the plate holes. It took about all I had to get the rivet heads mushroomed to proper size diameter. EK gives you a easy to use gauge to check the rivet diameter--too small, put it back in the tool and squash it bigger. EK also includes a set of spacers so you can't squeeze the conlink together tighter than is appropriate.

If you are considering the small motion Pro chain tool, I'd give that some thought. Overwhelming advise was steer clear of that one....I think MPro makes a bigger one that might be better. I got the EK chain tool. Cost more than the chain but I am not worried about it doing the job effectively for the rest of my riding days.

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I'm feeling a lot better about the EK---it's full of grease in the rollers--white litheum is prolly a bit heavier weight than your typical grease.

Also----I will do much more research before converting to 525 pitch. That works for liter bikes that make 200 hp but they still don't make the zx14 torque. 530 pitch and no worries.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2011 @ 11:45 AM *

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I remember you suggesting a tool in another thread I just couldn't remember which it was, thanks for picking up on my hint. I don't need a chain ATM but I think I may buy that tool now so I have it. Thanks Rook.

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I went with 118 pins which is same as stock chain length.

Stock is 116.

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^^^If so, then I think my stock chain 2 extra links. dammit, I counted both chains at least 2 times/each. Now I will have to go count again. Obsess/compulse.

...Crush, i ordered the EK chain tool from these guys MOTO-CHAINS $186 free shipping.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2011 @ 5:58 PM *

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You were right , Dogo. The stock chain is 116 links. So that starts to level the playing field in the weight dept.

Stock chain 116 pin, 90.3 oz 90.3 : 116 = .7784 oz/link
EK ZZZ chain 118 pin, 91.9 oz 91.9 : 118 = .7788 oz/link

Take the grease out of the EK and it would def be lighter.

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thanks Dogo!

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2011 @ 6:34 PM *

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Feel a little better now, Rook? Had to go count the links on my old chain just to be sure.

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Oh man that is a big load off my mind. I was ready to go out and buy a new chain. Thanks Dogo.

I edited initial post.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2011 @ 11:43 PM *

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"ready to go out and buy a new chain".... Exactly how much "weight" are ya tryin to drop?Sheesh.... Triple Z chain....530....can't go wrong with THAT puppy.

"Driving the pins through that outer plate"....You DID grind the mushroomed heads off FIRST(the factory heads),didn't you? With those off,you should be able to virtually slide the link straight out.And as far as crimping them...it's a VERY SMALL mushroom effect.NOT anything like the factory rivet deal.Shouldn't need but a small bit of turning with the tool to get the correct mushroom.

I used the MotionPro tool...for the zx14(chain size).Had NO issues at all...except....I misunderstood the instructions.I failed to grind the inside heads down(ya....shoulda just used my common sense).Naturally,It took "everything I had" about to get that link outta there...broke the extractor pin as well.They sent me a new pin...free.Getting the correct mushroom was very easy,once I realized exactly HOW it was supposed to look.There's a little "ring" embedded in the link pins,right where you mushroom it.Supposed to just barely mushroom to or above those rings for a good smooth operating link.You have that sweet little spacer....so yours should be really simple to mushroom to the correct amount.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/2/2011 @ 1:02 AM *

That difference of .0004 ounces per link could slow you down Rook, I estimate it could knock as much as .000000000134 mph off of yore top speed. Had a fly land on my cowling one time and I coulda swore I lost .0067 mph, dadgum gnats will slow ya dow as well.

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See...everyone thinks I'm anal about "cleaning" my bike on my rides...You and I get it Kruz...I want TOP performance from my baby.Them flies and stuff...gotta go baby!

Kruz, It's just the grease that 's weighing me down now. Once all that heavy white litheum flings outa there, I'll be weighing in at an ounce or 2 lighter. I'll be able to fly!

Them flies and stuff...gotta go baby!

Where have we heard that before?

"Driving the pins through that outer plate"....You DID grind the mushroomed heads off FIRST(the factory heads),didn't you? With those off,you should be able to virtually slide the link straight out.And as far as crimping them...it's a VERY SMALL mushroom effect.NOT anything like the factory rivet deal.Shouldn't need but a small bit of turning with the tool to get the correct mushroom.

"After seeing the amount of force required to drive those pins through the outer plate, I am confident they will never come out. After all, they are riveted on the outside and fit tight as heck in the plate holes."

.......I meant that it took quite a bit of force to push the pins through the outer plate on the connecting link. The pins slid throught the inner links easy but the outer holes were so tight , I dare say I might ride without riveting the pin heads if I had to. ....but I don't have to

I did grind the pin heads when I cut the old chain and then again to chop down the new one.

Even with pins ground off, I was cranking on that ratchet to push the pins through the outer plates.

There's a little "ring" embedded in the link pins,right where you mushroom it.Supposed to just barely mushroom to or above those rings for a good smooth operating link.You have that sweet little spacer....so yours should be really simple to mushroom to the correct amount.

The ZZZ came with a gauge to check the diam of the mushroomed (riveted) head. The rivet fits in the circle part of the gauge ...........

..........but if the rivet is small enough diam to slide through the straight part, it needs to be squashed bigger.

The spacers fit between middle and outer plates and rest on top of the x-rings. The spacers will maintain the proper inner play regardless of how tight you squeeze the rivet heads. They pulled out pretty easily after I finished the riveting the pin heads. This shot was before I riveted the heads.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/2/2011 @ 5:13 PM *

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Looks okay...you say the Triple Z comes with those little gauges?HHMMMMmmmmmm.Gonna have to look into that...see if anyone just sells the gauges.Cool little tool(s) there.

The gauge is the black metal piece. Very simple but quite effective. I do not know if it would be sized correctly for any chain other than the EK ZZZ. You know- maybe a DID chain has thicker pins that make for larger rivets or something ??? The spacers are the more silver colored plates that are stuck in between the inner and outer chain plates in the last oic. Again, I don't know if they would be appropriate for use with any other chain than the one they come with.

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I bet those spacers add quite a bit of weight to the chain too! I don't know Rook.....

* Last updated by: Edgecrusher on 3/4/2011 @ 6:49 AM *

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thank God they get removed after the con link is riveted.

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You mean..they have to come out?Shi^ man,I think they look pretty trick myself.Square chain links...cool.

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