Hi folks. I just got done replacing the spark plugs on my '11 ZX-14, and would like to check throttle body sync while I have her apart. I looked in the "how-to" area and tried a couple of searches, but couldn't find a tutorial for doing it. The shop manual is pretty confusing... Does one exist? Thanks!

The book is confusing? Look for a plug over that sync fitting> on throttle body #1 cylinder. Find the other fitting on #4 cylinder. Hook your sync tool to those 2 fittings. Where are they sitting? You may not need to adjust. This is a check. Are you using mano's or gauges?

With gauges, swap hoses. Are they the same or is there another needle drop from the swap to the same cylinder, meaning. See how you have to balance both needles to one cylinder if say you use the needle style sync tool? Still confused, give a shout.

Thanks for the info, Hub. I'll be using a four tube manometer, the kind with steel rods in it. I haven't started yet. Will let you know what happens and thanks again for answering.

I thought this was a good thread.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=E6141A96-1372-66AE-3BA69E057C9E8298&page=2

Gen 1 book states:

Hook up all 4 cylinders. Warm engine. Close PAIR.
Set the center sync screw for both shafts first.
Sync 1-2 to each other, 3-4 to each other so all meet the same mmHg (pressures).

Gen 2 manual says:
All of the above but:
Do not touch the center screw at all.
Sync the 4 low screws so they equal out to the same mmHg.
___________________________________________________________________________________

Gen 1: Has an idle cable and can be adjusted.
Gen 2: Has no idle cable and is preset.
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Hubset:

Gen 1: Same as above but:
1. Close all air screws and never bottom them out, but feel the first resistance of that spring collapsing harder and stop. You'll ruin both the needle and body machined tapers you gorilla them home.

2. Sync the center screw first so only 2 gauges are hooked up to each side you watch both shafts. The lower the idle, the more finite, the more equal are the pulses. Blip the throttle every time you move a screw turn.

3. Open all screws 1/2-turn. Start engine. Note the 4 air pulses. Never touch the center screw. Balance all 4 pulses equally so they match each other. Whoever is the highest, bring it down first.
__________________________________________________________________________________
Gen 2:

I'm about to figure this out so stay tuned.

Hi all,

I bought the Sync Pro Carb tuner, and I am not sure what's is the manifold to use for calibration, does anyone know which is?

Also I don't know yet if I'll have to remove the gas tank and use an auxiliary gas tank, could anyone share this info?

Thank you all,
Marco

* Last updated by: marco on 5/5/2015 @ 3:14 PM *

I just ordered the Emgo synchronizer kit today. Ordered a Motion Pro adjuster, and 3 spark plug. The last time I ordered plugs the place sent me 5... apparently unadvertised special!

Motion Pro web site has a nice vid on how to use their sync tool, good general info

Yeah, that video will be very helpful. I want to do a TB sync tutorial this summer (along with too many others). This should happen because I need to sync mine and I have all the tools. You will probably need a longer bit than what the MP tool has with the set. I'm sure an extended phillips bit for a drill would work fine. [EDIT 01/2016: the bits that are commonly found for drills are probably too big. I used a smaller phillips from a screwdriver set] You will not need to remove the gas tank so no need for an aux fuel res with a 14.

I thought Hub had a tutorial or some pics about Gen1 throttle bodies sync on here somewhere.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/14/2016 @ 6:22 PM *

Right angle Motion Pro screw driver

Obviously I have not tried mine yet but it looks like the phillips bit will need to be a little longer than the one they give you to reach the adjuster screws.

This is the one I got.

http://www.motosport.com/motion-pro-90-degree-carb-tool-with-bits

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0229-Degree-Driver/dp/B000GV1UJS

It's been a while since I did the research but I seem to recall being advised NOT to get the cheaper pilot screwdriver by Motion Pro. I think it was just that it has a straight slot tip. IDK ifthe tips are interchangeable with this one, if it's straight slot it will be useless for the 14's T-bodies.

DON"T GET THIS ONE

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/6/2015 @ 6:11 AM *

Rook you're saying it's Phillips head. I believe you for sure, but this seems abnormal to what I'm used to in general. Maybe Gen 2 is different. In my service manual the synch screws appear to be flat head and not Phillips.

I've bought a few Motion Pro tools now and have been impressed by the bang for buck of their products. Bikemaster I'm a little more apprehensive about, but I do like the Bikemaster rim protectors.

Vic, look closer. I recall it's more like a combo flat/combo phillips in one head.

I might have mentioned that I have never actually got around to balancing the T bodies so I'm not 100% certain but looking at the 2008 SM, the adjuster screws appear to be phillips. Hard to say, they might be straight slot/phillips combo. I seem to recall from long past threads (perhaps on the old forum) owners were having a problem with this because they were buying the tool with the straight slot tip and it wasn't working. Oh well, if you get the one pictured above, it has interchangeable tips. Costs a lot more though.

100% positive this is a dual head and the philips is the better bite to turn against that spring. The syncing of the plates alone is a kick in the pants... hidden smoothing i.e., wicked response.

You're missing the boat, Rook!

a dual head and the philips is the better bite to turn against that spring.

I think it was you that mentioned this way back when I bought the adjusting tool. There was at least one other guy who recommended the one I show above so I decided not to take a chance on the much cheaper one.

The syncing of the plates alone is a kick in the pants... hidden smoothing i.e., wicked response.

The diagrams in the service manual aren't clear. My main concern was if it was Philips only and not flat head at all and ordering the tool I did. Thanks for the tip about positive adjustments. I'll let you know if I any issues given that most likely I'll have some minor synch issues.

Hit 7500 miles today (~2750 for the season so far). Should have everything I need for synching this week. Unfortunately the first place I ordered from cancelled my order due to ending up not having the stuff in stock. So I had to order again from elsewhere.

Damned screws!!!!!

I set up everything to sync tune my 2008 baby but ..... can't see the three @$%^#&@* pilot screw adjusters !!!!

Even using the pics from the service manual I can't locate them; does anyone know if there are some pics in our
forum showing them? I searched but found nothing yet

Any suggestion about how to locate them will be very welcome !

Thanks,
Marco

This is 1 of the 4 you adjust

Its in the exploded view from the service manual in the fuel section

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 7/5/2015 @ 6:48 PM *

Look for that webbing down to the screws. This is a mirror of what the other side looks like with the needles inside and follow as per.

I sure hope to get to this soon and do a write up.

I think what Hub means by "that webbing" is the rib that extends from where the duct clamps onto the T body bore to the adjuster screw. Looks like Hub has a couple special adjuster bits fitted to the two adjuster screws we see in his pic. Good luck. Pass on any tips you think I might find helpful.

First of all I want to thank you all for your feedback and suggestions

Here is the status

1) My baby: 2008 ZX14 CA model

2) Hi Hub, would you please check the pic: if the adjuster screws circled in green are those to be used to
adjust the pairs 1-2, 3-4 then I located them
If the adjuster screw circled in red is the one to be used to adjust the two pairs then ... I really can't
see it!

3) I am using the screw driver mentioned by Rook in his post (Motion-Pro-08-0229-Degree-Driver/dp/B000GV1UJS)
which I bought from Amazon for $71.00
For bodies 1-2 (left side): I can't reach the screws with the stock tips, I'll have to make a longer tip
(likely a shortened drill tip)
For bodies 3-4 (right side): it looks like the head of the screw driver is too large and can't be placed
right in front of the adjuster; I'll try again however even here a longer tip has to be used

So my priority list is:

1) locate the adjuster screw adjusting the two pairs

2) find out how to properly use the screw driver in order to reach screws 3-4

Thanks,
Marco

Correct, marco. Look at how I had to shorten the one screw handhold so it clears when I reinstalled the bodies, they had to clear that path. Same goes with the adjuster length. custom cut to length a few flats and philips heads. I use a mirror and use it to rest on the bottom of the case so I can look up to the center screw/lows.

So find a small enough mirror, circle a strip of tape so there is tack on the back of the mirror, now place it so it sits where you aim it was flipping that package tape or blue tape... Play the dentist. You get used to the dexterity after awhile. Weird watching the mirror and you have to remember the angle of the driver, so back to looking at the driver to see where you are in the angle of it. You'll see what I mean.

1)

My baby: 2008 ZX14 CA model

2)

the adjuster screws circled in green are those to be used to
adjust the pairs 1-2, 3-4

I'm looking at the service manual and here's how it looks to me:

The screws you have circled in green in Hub's pic are bypass screws. They are at the rear of the Tbodies below the fuel rail. These screws point toward the back of the bike. Here is the diagram from the service manual. The bypass screws are marked, (A). These are fine tuning screws. You do not need to touch these unless the vacuum of a bore is out of service limit, 258 +/- 10 mmHg. You would do this AFTER balancing the pairs, 1/2 and 3/4.
Throttle Body Vacuum Standard: 34.4 ±1.3 kPa (258 ±10 mmHg) at idle speed

The bypass screws are pointing to the upper left in this pic of the Tbody assy removed.

See the tubular projection with the rib on top? Each bypass screw head must be right at the end of that tube.

3)

If the adjuster screw circled in red is the one to be used to adjust the two pairs then ... I really can't
see it!

For bodies 1-2 (left side): I can't reach the screws with the stock tips, I'll have to make a longer tip
(likely a shortened drill tip)

I saw phillips tips of various lengths at Lowe's. There was one that looked about the right length ~inch and a half. You might have to hacksaw a couple down to the right length. Good luck on that. I hope that fancy Motion Pro pilot screwdriver works because that's what I will be using.

Also, do you have a "highly accurate" tachometer to hook up to the bike? I guess the stock tach is not considered to be highly accurate enough.

HUB or anyone, please coment on my coments because I am just going from the SM. I have never actually done one of these yet.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/14/2016 @ 6:27 PM *