I'll post snaps and details later... for now I'll stick to the brass tacks.

This entire weekend I've been performing scheduled maintenance: valve lash check, TB scynchro, air filter, spark plugs, and so on. My Ninjee doesn't even look like a Ninjee right now... just a pile of parts (pics soon).

Here's the warning: the velocity stacks on cylinders 1 & 2 were NOT secured... they were just laying on top of the TBs. Not only did this allow 1 & 2 to suck unfiltered air, it allowed all cylinders to ingest contaminants due to the air box grommets not sealing. Stacks 3 & 4 were tight and a real pain in the tuchus to remove.

I'm pretty suspicious of the factory after seeing the videos of the production line: workers in stations on both sides of the bike. If I'm right, mine isn't the only one.

Again, its cylinders 1 & 2 and you can lift the stack off the TB with your finger.

Once I've finished up I'll post more details.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 3/13/2013 @ 6:33 AM *

The screws were NOT tightened?The Rubber boots were not down over the metal stacks?(on the throttlebodies?)under the airbox?That's a lot of 'maintenance' so soon...how many miles on her?

"I'm pretty suspicious of the factory after seeing the videos of the production line: workers in stations on both sides of the bike"...you consider this a bad procedure?Why?

I'll check mine....it can be done by removing the side cover?I did do a visual a bit back....they looked okay....everything looked okay.Certainly didn't see the rubber boots 'up' from the stacks under there.That's terrible...sheesh...hope all's okay.

I can't imagine that guy missing tightening those hold straps on there?.....geez.

Honestly...I'd call the Irvine,California main branch...tell em what ya found...really...I would.Those guys want and need to know this stuff.....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/10/2013 @ 10:30 PM *

Like grn said, you call with a vin number, they will know who had saki that day coming in to work the line. Ever rev the engine, watch the intake try to suck the plates off the shafts? You can see the boots load and unload you go revving it and look how it's possible for the boots to walk up off the body. It's that for every action there's a person on the phone that had nothing to do with [the assembly of] your bike: so remember to be calm. Take a compression reading first so you know you have a problem or not too much can be solved. This would then be a courtesy notice out in the field [you servicing the bike or resolving a problem] getting word back to the line, meaning. I'm just saying the alleged fermented little white things may, or may not have anything to do with the steps of that bike's every move down the line.

12,125 miles on the clock Grn... plugs and synchro need done at 7500, air filter at 11,250 and lash at 15,000 so I'm doing that too while I'm in the neighborhood.

I don't think the principle of KHIs system is suspect. I think the individual who is responsible for those two stacks dropped the ball. The person on the other side of the bike got it done correctly.

I don't have a 10mm adapter for my comp gauge... trust me, I looked everywhere.

There's other stuff too... like two, extremely cruddy intake valves. And no, they are not in the same cylinder. I'm documenting everything and will compile a report.

If the motor is a stressed member of the frame...it can't 'move'...can it?If it's moving with throttle up...something is very wrong....right?I can't see how the boots could walk up the stacks...but...stranger things have happened.I mean...all the pressures are going through the stack opening...not the boot,yes?It just seals the 'tunnel' from the airbox to the throttlebody,???

Thanks Hagrid.

Can I reach'em and / or see'em for an eyeball / finger test without removing a bunch of fairing?

Really, thanks for the heads-up.

Bob

Meb: unfortunately you need to remove your middle fairings (foremans) to access the throttle bodies. Its not a tough job. Once there you can see plainly if the stacks are seated and tighten the joint clamps if necessary (4mm hex).

Grn: this isn't an engine movement related issue. Remember, 3 & 4 stacks were snug as bugs. And I didn't find anything else wrong or loose, clamp/ fastener-wise.

Thank You for the heads up.

It just keeps getting better.

Tonight I started putting stuff back on beginning with the valve cover. I laid out my new gaskets, cleaned all the surfaces, and set my torque wrench to 74 inch/# for the six shoulder bolts. The book value is 87 but I wanted to get all of the fasteners pre-torqued and go back over them with the full value.

Wouldn't you know one of the little SOBs broke off? At 75 inch/#?

Un. Fuggin. Believable.

So. NOW I have the pleasure of taking that particular bearing cap to work tomorrow to see how well I destroy it attempting to E-Z-OUT the threaded remnant. No biggie if I ruin that cap, right? Its just a piece of cast aluminum with two machined half-bores. They probably have scads of 'em sitting on the shelf at BikeBandit, right?

WRONG AGAIN HAGGY, YOU NUMBNUT!! THE CAPS AND THE HEAD ARE MACHINED TOGETHER!! BOOGER-UP JUST ONE OF THOSE CAPS AND THEN PREPARE FOR THE PAAAAAAIIIIIINNNN!!!

AAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

IVE GONE INSANE... AND YOU ALL ARE COMING WITH ME!!!!

* Last updated by: hagrid on 3/11/2013 @ 5:52 PM *

Sorry to hear all the problems hagrid ... I checked the bolts on my throttlebodies boots , and they were a little loose, nothing like yours, but looser than they should have been ... Thanks for the heads up, and hope things start going better for you ..

* Last updated by: carabuser on 3/11/2013 @ 6:05 PM *

Thanx bud. I'm calm now. I'm pretty sure I can fix the cap... just need to be patient and work slowly.

Geez Hagrid....sorry man.Did that bolt bottom or something?I've heard of these bolts snapping...on the previous Gens a time or two....but that was trying to tighten without washering for that oil seep thing.

Sorry Bro....

Try not to feel too pissed...I had to buy(dumbass that I am)a new tank cover(cracked the point on the side where it bolts to the tank)...and one sidecover(broke the second from bottom tine trying to remove that prick)....and TWO midfairngs...yes...TWO(one for each side)...snapped those projection tabs off that mate up with the tank cover where the tank cover lower projection fits into.FU#@!!!....Friggin felt like I was 'buying a new bike' gotta say.That's when I lowered that tank...to get those to line up...which they do now...no sweat.Still....it's a maddening thing to 'break' yer new bike.Hopefully I'll be more careful in the future....geez....shoulda KNOWN better...my other one was without any breakage of parts.IDK what happened here...except it was brutally cold and I think the tabs and such were terribly brittle.Trying to force these things...it just doesn't work.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/11/2013 @ 7:04 PM *

AAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
IVE GONE INSANE... AND YOU ALL ARE COMING WITH ME!!!!

Step away for min, Drink Beer Quick & watch some TV or

This entire weekend I've been performing scheduled maintenance: valve lash check, TB scynchro, air filter, spark plugs, and so on.

How did she check out ?

@Romes: lash = tight limit on all but four intake valves. air filter = filthy!! plugs = good color, slight deposits, little to no electrode wear. injector nozzles, throttle plates and bores, induction system = clean (in spite of two loose velocity stacks. valve cover as found = no oil leaks (or anywhere else).

@Grn: Thanx mang.

AHA!! I triumph yet again!

As it so happens, the threaded remnant wasn't under any tension. I was able to extract the item using delicate tools.

Yay me!

That's no biggie, hag. If the stud came out by hand, you did not pull up the threads in the head. Even if you did, a heli-coil is still going to keep the bike running forever.

A 1/4 drive inch beam torque wrench has a better feel. The clicker types have too much hidden torque, you can't tell until it's too... What was that? Chew hear something?

Awesome...you rock!Glad that puppy backed out...WoHoo...

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/12/2013 @ 8:46 AM *

@Romes: lash = tight limit on all but four intake valves. air filter = filthy!! plugs = good color, slight deposits, little to no electrode wear. injector nozzles, throttle plates and bores, induction system = clean (in spite of two loose velocity stacks. valve cover as found = no oil leaks (or anywhere else).

Sweet. What was mileage ?

12,125 miles.

Checked mine tonight...all's fine...no loose screws or anything.Thanks Hagrid for the heads up with that;)

Able to check mine today. left side was definately loose but nothing really major..I was able to get 1 turn in for a good snug fit.. Right side was good, but gave it a 1/4 turn just to even it up
Also checked the 2 problematic bolts up front.... Tight as can be

* Last updated by: leo167 on 3/19/2013 @ 6:52 PM *

@Montana: no problem... anytime.

@Leo: glad to hear yours were still seated.

I just reinstalled my TB bank tonight. I went ahead and ran some vacuum tubing to each TB nipple for future synch operations. That way I won't have to remove the bank for subsequent operations.

NOTE: when I bought my MotionPro synch tool it came with four little vaccum delay inserts. They're just brass plugs with a tiny hole in the center. They're intended to smooth the vacuum pulse so the column doesn't jump up and down. Turns out KHI already installed delays on the TB spigots. That's on the 2012s anyway.

OH bananas, I am a do it yourself phobe. I guess this warning goes out to all 2012 r models...eeeeek!

Finished checking mine this weekend.

All good, they're tight.