I had made a few runs in the beginning of having the pcv / at 200 setup, accepted the trims and have been running trouble free since, leaving the at on.
First, are you doing runs, or just riding before accepting trims?
If you just ride the bike like DJ says, you will probably get bad trims below 3200 rpm and I can't say how accurate they would be above that being that some or all of those trims would be recorded while rolling off throttle. This is normal riding, not a good tuning run. I did my first AutoTune adjustment "just riding." min/max trims were set at +/- 10 so couldn't have changed the map much after I accepted adjustments. It seemed to improve the flies open response but this is not what Romans told me was proper. It is in fact, wrong for the reasons I mentioned above-- off throttle exhaust reverberations and fuel dumps. Autotune will probably work very well for the cruising zone of the map even if you just ride the bike. If you leave AT ON, that will keep your AFR running at your desired number in the cruising zone. AT does not work very well for making corrections on the fly outside of the cruising zone although if set at +/- 15, probably will not hurt much either UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS.
I would not count on AT to self correct for race fuel, nitrous or boost outside of the cruising zone. In fact, I might even shut it off for those situations because proper AFR is probably more critical. If I am running a lean AFR with nitrous, I would not want AT accidentally leaning it out more in the upper rpm where I use my nitrous. That is how AT works, accidents back and forth---correcting + and - until it hits the AFR number you have in that cell of your map.
A tuning run is instant snap to desired TP at low rpm and hold until the bike stops accellerating then instant cut to 0% TP. DO NOT touch throttle, decel at 0%, accept trims. That way there is no possible way the fuel cut or reverberations or back and forth on the throttle can cause errant trims. Repeat this several times until you get all 0 or +/-1 for trims and I think a +/-2 here and there is probably acceptable.
Maybe you know all that. This is tutelage from Romans. As mentioned, just riding the bike seemed to work ok for my first adjustment but like you, I did not keep adjusting my map this way. It's not possible to get the map perfect in one or two runs. That I have seen with my own eyes. Autotune is too slow for that and that is why tuning on the fly doesn't work outside of the cruising range.
Ok- here is my question- would the oxygen added race fuel cause the at/ pcv setup to run richer than usual? Not that I am having any negative effects or sooting. Just curious and wondering if my thinking is in the ballpark?
Oxygenated fuel would burn leaner. You have oxy in your fuel on top of what is coming in the the intakes, right? So there is more oxygen in your AFR. AT would sense that and try its best to compensate (but maybe not entirely successful if you just ride the bike). So if AT was accurately sampling your exhaust from oxygenated fuel, it would ADD fuel to compensate for the leaner burn that must be happening. ...but if it adds fuel, it is adding oxygenated fuel. Every time AT adds fuel to compensate for extra air, it also gets more extra oxygen which is the only part of air AT really cares about. With enough runs, AT should eventually get the AFR right with oxygenated fuel. The more oxygen in the fuel, the longer the process would take.
Clearly my upcoming tuning runs will be with pump gas, but I am left wondering if using the good fuel is wasted if
A user fails to switch to a race gas map before take off?
Most definitely. The more air that is in the race fuel, the farther off will be the map made with ordinary fuel.
Further how would a race gas map differ?
The race gas map would be richer than a pump gas map. The confusing thing is that as the map adds more fuel, it also ads more oxygen so richening up the AFR is adding A (or O to be precise) as well as F. I presume there is proportionally far more fuel in the race gas than there is oxy. If there was a lot of oxy, seems to me you might never get a proper AFR because you can't control the amount of air that comes in by throttle. All you can do is control the amount of fuel. If the fuel already has a huge amount of oxy dissolved in it.....?? AT will keep adding fuel to compensate which adds even more oxy! At some point, (if stock injectors are physically able to flow a high enough volume) a balance would be reached but seems possible that could pack too much punch for a stock engine. You may require timing and compression adjustments if that gas contains a real lot of oxygen. --All just musings. That race gas can't contain that much oxygen or no one would bother with turbo. Just run oxygenated gas.
but anyway, the oxygenated fuel mapping would be richer than pump gas mapping even if you were using the same target AFRs in both maps. Oxygenated fuel with intake has more oxygen in it than pump gas with intake so the race fuel map needs to be richer to balance off the extra oxygen. How much extra oxygen there is in the fuel could have a big impact on the mapping.
The added oxygen requires or allows more fuel use per intake?
Very simple. Your cylinder can only hold so much volume (1441cc divided by 4 cylinders = 360.25cc). If your AFR is 13 parts air : 1 part fuel, your cylinder will hold 25.73 cc of fuel and 334.54 cc of air. That proportion should give you your best power with an acceptable safety margin for cylinder head temp. So that cylinder is limited to whatever hp 25.73 cc of fuel can produce. How to get more power??? sneak a way to cram more of that 13:1 ratio in there. AIR has a lot of STUFF in it that doesn't burn, most notably, CO2, H2O and god knows what else depending on the air quality. SO that 334.5 cc of ordinary air is not as good as pure oxygen which is the only part that really burns. Put pure oxy in your mix and now you can put more fuel in for a bigger BOOM! The extra fuel displaces some of that crappy ordinary air so you maintain your perfect 13 : 1 ratio while remaining within the confines of your 360.25 cc cylinder. Nitrous works the same. The basic principle is that you are creating a higher proportion of oxygen which allows you to introduce a larger amount of fuel which eliminates some of the normal, oxygen poor air.
Now how turbo works is beyond me because it is definitely all normal air. It doesn't drag on the engine but it does restrict the exhaust so I don't get how it results in a net gain but it does.
* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2018 @ 9:11 PM *
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