Back in about 2013 I removed the camshafts and found that the caps were scored. I have not removed them since to check if the damage has gotten worse. The camshaft journals all looked flawless. Here's a couple pics of the camshaft caps.

Now I will be running NOS and I definitely want to try to get as much lubrication to the top of the motor as possible. There's plenty reason to do this even if there were not a possible lubrication problem to the camshafts.

I understand there are scavenge pumps which are pretty costly. Also, the high volume oil pump gear/relief valve/oil pump plate which is much cheaper. Are there any other approaches I should think about using?

INFO ABOUT THE PLATE

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/23/2016 @ 6:49 PM *

Actually I have a theory about how that scuffing occurs Rook.

Most guys change their own oil right? Pull the drain plug (Check this out guys., pull the filter, stick the plug back in, screw a filter on, and fill her back up right? Most guys start the bike up and its all done. Well...... There's a bit of a problem with this. Ok lets go over what our current state of affairs is. Oil pan is full, oil pump is still primed, but...... our filter is completely full of air. Air that must be displaced. Watch that oil pressure light after an oil change and you might be horrified at how long it takes to go out. Since the top of the motor gets oil last, it would stand to reason that it would suffer the most from our dry start scenario.

My method involves pre-filling the filter before installing it onto the oil pan. Now disconnect the fuel pump connector and let the motor free spin long enough to re-prime the oiling system (oil pressure light goes out). Call me paranoid but that's what I do every time I change the oil. It's more frequent than you guys because of my drag racing. I actually drop the oil plan, clean it, and replace the pickup tube/screen every other oil change.

* Last updated by: maverick1441 on 5/23/2016 @ 8:53 PM *

Thans, mav. Wow. Yeah, I have on occasion filled the filter (about halfway is all you can do with a horizontal filter) before installing. That makes sense. I guess I will be pre-filling the filter every time now like you.

It would be possible to replace the caps but you are not really supposed to. Holes may be drilled individually for each engine. The journal surface might not match perfectly to each cap. I would certainly try new caps before replacing the whole engine because of bad camshaft caps.

...but if I'm going to increase oil pressure, should I go with the gear/relief valve/oil pump plate or should I plan on a scavenge pump or all of the above or is there something else I should think about doing?

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/23/2016 @ 10:26 PM *

I've heard that you gain a good amount of pressure and flow by eliminating the counterbalance shafts. Is this an option that is feasible for you?

My counterbalance shafts are removed as well and the dummy shafts installed.

Rook I would just shim the oil relief valve and install the pump cover. This alone will substantially increase the efficiency of your lubrication system at a minimal cost.

My counterbalance shafts are removed as well and the dummy shafts installed.

SAw those and want to do but I'm focussing on what I can do inside the clutch cover for now. Counterbalances must require disassembling the entire engine.

Rook I would just shim the oil relief valve and install the pump cover. This alone will substantially increase the efficiency of your lubrication system at a minimal cost.

By the shimming the oil relief valve the oil pressure needs to climb higher to over power the new higher spring pressure to bleed. Thus creating a higher system oil pressure.

I get it this is a spring controlled valve. The advantage of the aftermarket relief valve would be that it has optimum spring tension. How do you know how much to shim the OEM?

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/25/2016 @ 10:27 PM *

Dwayne from Cycle Concepts has been building them for years. I'm sure he set the original up with an oil pressure gauge.

For $80, I think I'd just go with the aftermarket to make sure I'm getting the best spring tension (hopefully).

If the plate is installed, the oil pump will always be positioned to pick up the oil properly. The relief valve will keep the oil flowing at a higher pressure. but will the pump create enough pressure without the aftermarket gear?

Ever see one of these aftermarket gears? If it has the same # teeth as OEM, I doubt it does anything.

Don't do it, Rook.

Ever see one of these aftermarket gears? If it has the same # teeth as OEM, I doubt it does anything.

This gear causes the pump to turn at faster speeds which increases oil volume and thus pressure at a lower RPM.

Gotta be more teeth than stock.

BTW, the idea of parasitic drag had not occurred to me. I'm told the gear and relief valve together will probaly cost me ~5 hp. Only get that back if I use NOS. This is sounding more like I should go with just the plate unless this becomes a dedicated race bike.

I also got some good info at zx1441r.com

OIL PRESSURE ENHANCEMENT

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/28/2016 @ 8:10 AM *

I also thought it would be a good idea to post this messge from Romans. The opinion seems to be unaanimous. Unless you have some real anxiety about oiling, all the valve and gear will do is reduce your hp. I sort of doubt that would be noticeable. I'm sure the hp loss is even less when the engine is turning slow but who wants to spend $250 to give away 5 hp on top?

Rook my bike has the plate only. That is all that is needed. My bike is running well over 500hp and that's all I have. Oil level top of glass. My oil also pumps through the turbo with ease. I have had the hoses off and measured flow. All good.

Well there you go Rook. From a true drag racer to a turbo maniac. The plate is the way to go bud.

OK then, plate it is. BUT...

..looking at pics of the inside of the crankcase, it appears that one would need to remove the OEM pump gear in order to install the aftermarket oil pump plate. The aftermarket gear description says it needs to be pressed into place so assume the OEM gear is also pressure fit.

So do I need some kind of a puller to remove the OEM gear and then how do I press it back in?

Other oil pump cover thread:

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=1A57C487-95C3-B5EB-5145DF7E590E8577&show=0