I'd try something like this to eliminate things:
1. With a test light or an ohm meter set to 20v, I'd go down to the relay (battery cage area), key on, ground the test light or meter, then probe the wire that when you hit the start switch button, you have power to the relay = Eliminates the starter switch.
2. With test light/meter at the other side of the relay, you want key on again, so really, you just do this quick test when you go back to the start button and test the other side of the relay. Where this is [touching] the starter motor cable to see if the relay's arm clicks inside the relay and hots the motor's cable.
3. So the arm in the relay is magnetically pulled to complete the cables being connected; is the bridge from hot cable from battery to relay, then relay out to starter motor cable. Kind of see what you're testing in the starter loop?
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