What is there to be gained if anything by going to a Non o-ring chain?
For Racing..
Anybody have some solid facts?
This would be for racing and non street use!!

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More maintenance , reduction in friction which equals more horsepower

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Like Darryl said, non- oring chains have less operating friction thereby freeing up a bit of horsepower. BUT- expect to change them wayyyy more often. If you ain't running at the front of the field, I'd just stay with the O-ring type.
But then all my chains lasted forever... .because I sucked.

Mad

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Anybody have some solid facts?
This would be for racing and non street use!!

If it's drag racing or LSR, go for it. You'll have to be lubing it every time you use the bike but it will give you a very small edge. I was considering getting one for street use and the verdict was almost unanimous, "DON'T." Many racers don't consider it worth the trouble but if you're into eeking out every bit of performance...

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1. What is there to be gained if anything: A reduction in friction. Rubber squeezes into plate is the only difference. Same tensile strength is a 530 size so you chase a minimum of strength as factory.

2. For Racing: Pin length has to compensate for the rubber o-rings. For racing, the other chain becomes lighter with shorter pins and no o-rings.

3. Anybody have some solid facts? My research would be: if I had a new chain with o-ring, I'd get out my bread making 'ounce scale' for salts, baking powder, other spoon size weights; move the scale under a few links and begin to push up on the o-ring links. Swap chains and push the one link that will move or whatever links move, they are going to show a frictional difference. That's about as scientific as who makes less ounces of push to move a link from a stationary link.

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/16/2015 @ 7:11 PM *

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Hub has this one. Tediously removing every O-Ring from a standard chain is the ticket IF your looking for that last hundredth. Pennies make dollars and it all adds up to guys that are watching those hundredths of seconds and tenths of MPH. The O-Rings from my factory chain have been missing for a long time.

I haven't decided yet
But
It's beginning to look like a non o-ring chain might be the way to go.
Anybody else care to chime in?

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Guess it's up to you to figure out the hard facts. I googled to try to find some dyno results but didn't really have any luck. I have seen dyno results for 520 conversions (not for a 14R) but going 530 to 520 saves <2 lbs and increases <2hp. Street rumors are often ridiculous of course, even hearing as much as 10 hp gains with a 520 conversion.

I'd expect you'd probably see similar gains from x-ring to non o-ring.

If you're into cleaning/lubing possibly several times within the factory mileage intervals...go for it.Sound like fun for a MINIMAL return?As was also mentioned...replacing well before an X or 0 ring chain.Could get old pretty quick.

what I recall being told was 'I lube my non oring chain every 12 miles.' That was a race bike of course.

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Ed just remove the O-Rings from your stock chain. I put my bike on a stand and made a video of a the tire spinning after a moderate push. I then removed EVERY o-ring with a razor blade and re-installed the chain. That same moderate push netted 6-7 more rotations of the tire than the attempt with o-rings. Now I realize that isn't irrefutable scientific evidence, but it was enough of a difference that I considered it a success. It takes several of these little bumps in performance or rolling resistance to really add up to a measurable difference, but most of these little "tricks" are cheap if not free. They just include a heavier maintenance schedule and several hours of tedious labor. Let me know if I can help.

New non-o:
a. No rubber.
b. No extended pins.
c. No lube needed if for 300 1-mile runs before first lube.
d. No crying the chain flies off or thru the case you lowered the tensile strength for weight wink-wink.

Modify existing chain.
a. The friction is more mute because by now the wear off the sides of the o-ring are less/no memory/etc.
b. The pins are not about to shrink and 'wear' are we when c kicks in and think about this.
c. The used/adding friction/gouging on the one side is the leading side or half the pin is sheered.
d. The trick is to flip the chain inside out so the non-sheered-pin-side is now as smooth as new.
e. The smoothing of the [no-sheered-pin=less friction] is eliminated when installed new is now 3-fold.

The 3-Fold MPH Move:
a. No o-ring = Friction.
b. No extended pin to add drag is to think of a sidewalk or a tightrope = Friction.
b. No used pin to sheer more pin off, if the spray is not pre-pressed in there as in new = Friction.

Chassis Setup and Psychological Pit Putdowns to the Compee:
a. Out think the competition.
b. Walk by the [used-removed orings-gouged on one side] and say:
c. 'Nice chain.'

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Mav and Hub it is exactly those little gains that I'm looking for
I absolutely love my 14r it ran 204.5 in the mile and 208.1 for the 1.5 mile last year.
I would love to be able to better those numbers this year.
Since I have Sebastian blast my ecu (and LOVE IT)there is nothing to change regarding the motor.
The only thing left would be aero changes and reducing parasitic losses.
Thinking about a quick shifter (hand shifting is not cutting it)for one along with probably the chain.
Then I have to think about the aero changes.

Thanks to everybody in advance for the information and assistance.

* Last updated by: capt10ed on 1/17/2015 @ 10:05 AM *

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Hand shift? I hope your not using the clutch to up-shift.

I did hand shift for my runs last year.
That has to stop

* Last updated by: capt10ed on 1/18/2015 @ 4:46 PM *

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