anyone have these? tired of my fluid turning black after being in the sun for a couple weeks, just wondering if these really help. ive got the set coming so i guess i better get out and change out the fluid...lol

http://www.reservoirsocks.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-blackgreen-reservoir-sock-set

Yes.

But I never heard of fluid turning black let alone from the sun. Water is usually considered brake fluid's enemy.
I just have mine cause it was free and probably the only Pazzo item I will ever afford on my bike. :)

Mine will turn dark red in the clutch reservoir. I noticed a slight film of very fine black sediment in the bottom. It got sucked down the pipe while doing the bleed. I think the sediment may have been deterioration of the diaphram.. Still working fine but getting old and breaking down little ata time.

flush it out and put synthetic in wont have to worry about hydroscopic properties of regular brake fluid.

All brake fluid is synthetic whether the bottle has the word on it or not. Dot 3,4, 5.1 are Glycol-based and are compatible with each other. Dot 5 is Silicone based and not compatible with Dot 3,4,5.1. Do not use silicone brake fluid if you have Dot 3, 4, or 5.1 in your system.

And ALL brake fluids are Hygroscopic to certain extents.

Fluid quality has the most to do with this. I would imagine a better quality brand takes more measures to ensure it's not exposed to moisture before the end user opens the bottle and that is what makes it better. But I could be wrong on that particular point.

As for the particles in the reservoir I believe you're right Rook, but you should have a look at what spec the manual has for the fluid and stick with that. Just as transmission fluids have differing reactivity to different metals depending on vehicle manufacturers, brake fluid also has differing reactivities with different rubbers depending on spec and whatever you used could possibly be eating at your rubber quicker than normal.

Also to take into consideration when thinking about fluids.
Dot 4 has a higher boiling point than Dot 3. However, Dot 3 is less hygroscopic. So if you leave Dot 4 fluid in a system longer than Dot 3 it may actually have a lower boiling point than the Dot 3 due to increased water content which may not be a problem in a car but in a high performance bike where more heat is generated over a smaller area on the brake piston it can have a great effect. Boiling point also lends toward indicating how polluted the used fluid has become.

My fluid has never changed color. First change of fluid was winter after 2nd season.

Second change was 3 weeks ago.

I ordered those socks anyway for bling factor.

Sounds like you change it often especially since you keep changing your lines. lol

i have the valvoline dot 5 in it now and it turned dark almost black. gonna try prestone dot 4 next. (both synthetic)

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 4/27/2011 @ 8:41 AM *

could be because DOT4 and DOT5 don't mix... lol

they didnt get mixed, the 5 was used when i switched out my brake lines. besides its says its fully compatable with 3&4

musta been 5.1 then.

I stand somewhat corrected on the 5.0 silicone fluid's Hydrosopic qualities according to this wiki but you need to fully flush the system if going from glycol-base to silicone-base. I will try to find out what happens when you mix the two even in small amounts..

Unlike polyethylene glycol based fluids, it is hydrophobic. Its chief advantage over other forms of brake fluid is that silicone exhibits a more stable viscosity index in extreme temperatures. It is widely used in the antique automobile arena as well as it does not damage paint.

Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing will cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure. DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. DOT 5 brake fluid absorbs a small amount of air requiring care when bleeding the system of air.

After a little searching I found differing reports. Few said they just intentionally flushed heavily with the new fluid when changing over and they were fine but most of these people had just done it in the last few months and who knows what happened later. Then there was the other extreme of people blowing stops signs standing on their brakes only to get home, crack open the reservior and find the silicone fluid had mixed and formed a thick gel. Some people advised replacing all rubber components because the solvents from either fluid has soaked in and will react to the new fluid being used including ss brake lines and even caliper rebuilding with new seals!
here is a quote from v-twin.com about a certain year Harley where they suddenly changed the system and people were unintentionally replacing with the wrong fluid and how to properly change over...

Since I don't do 'conversions', I wanted to talk to some of our brake vendors (TX & CA) and get my facts straight. Here's the procedure recommended:

Use a turkey baster to suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. Fill the reservoir with rubbing alcohol. Get about 5 bottles; yer gonna need 'em. 8-P

Bleed the system, just like you would normally. Keep bleeding each wheel cylinder/caliper until only rubbing alcohol comes out. When all you see is only clean, clear rubbing alcohol, you're thru with the flushing.

Take all the brake lines loose at both ends. Use filtered, dry compressed air to blow out all alcohol. The lines must be free of all traces of alcohol.

Remove the master cylinder and wheel cylinders/calipers. Disassemble each component, clean thoroughly with either hot soapy water/hot water rinse or with a commercial non-filming brake cleaner. Dry each part and reassemble using DOT5 brake fluid as lubricant.

Components such as the combination valve will have alcohol in them from the flushing procedure. Blowing them out will be pretty touchy. Too much air and you 'blow out' the valve, too little and you don't get rid of the alcohol.

Re-install all the parts, fill the reservoir with DOT5 fluid, and bleed as normal.
There's not complete agreement on how DOT5 reacts with DOT3/4. Some tech reps said it forms a gummy residue that affects brake action. Two stated that the DOT5 would simply 'flush out' any traces of alcohol/DOT3/4 during the bleeding process. Since there's not 100% agreement, (and I'm both anal-retentive and paranoid when it comes to brakes), I listed the full procedure.

Do you really, reeeelly wanna do this? DOT5 is typically used in heavy eqyuipment, military vehicles, and (some) antique vehicles. All share the same characteristic of sitting for long periods of time. DOT5 gets rid of any concern about moisture absorption while sitting idle.

DOT5 is expensive and a PITA; I think you'll spend a lot of time and $$, only to be disappointed with the actual performance gains"

scottjkyl wrote:

they didnt get mixed, the 5 was used when i switched out my brake lines. besides its says its fully compatable with 3&4

I think Edger found sufficient documentation to contradict the compatable assertion.

Besides, clearing your lines won't remove the coating of whatever fluid you had in them last. It won't empty out the slave and master cylinders, they will always have some in them unless you flush them.

You probably damaged your caliper seals/plungers. Might not show up right away, but eventually they will leak.

Cars are the same, I've had to flush the brake system on a Porsche I had once, and it took most of a Saturday to do it.

i guess time will tell, maybe i should just keep the 5 in it when i put the new lines on i completly (as much as possible w/o tearing everything apart) emptied and flushed with the new fluid going in with 1/2 a bottle. In the words of clint eastwood what a "cluster fuk" lol guess ill have to keep an eye on it for awhile. then if they start leaking ill have the excuse to switch to the Brembo system $$$$$$$$$$

Thats what I call positive thinking! Make every problem an opportunity!

ok after doing some investigating im happy to report that what i thought was dot 5 was actually the valvoline synpower abs brake fluid (which is dis continued) but anywho it is a glycol based fluid so i should be ok then right? lol

Heres some good reading on the different brake fluids and brake systems in general.

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/cows-brakefluid.html

Seems like it would just be easier to continue using the factory DOT fluid(s).I think the DOT 5 was out there when Kawasaki first introduced the zx14 brake system.Don't quite know why anyone would want to change something like that.Gotta go out and refill my brake lines(replace fluid).DOT 4 always seems just fine?Same thing with oil.I've had the best shift feel,and heat dissipation and performance using the 10/40 Motul Full Syn.Okay,it's not DINO...but it is still Kawasaki oil...their premium type for inline 4's used for hi performance riding.There was a definite difference in longevity and shift quality using several other "hi-end" brands.

I also have seen black dust sized rubber wear in my reservoirs.It's the diaphram(OR..the master internals).Probably just replace em after a while.Long as it's sealing okay,and no chunks I guess it's normal.

There...done.Good for another however many miles.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/28/2011 @ 9:57 PM *

As for the particles in the reservoir I believe you're right Rook, but you should have a look at what spec the manual has for the fluid and stick with that.

Spec is right there on the reservoir covers. Didn't go check it but I am quite certain it is "DOT 3 or DOT 4" at owners preference. I use Valvoline labeled for systems which require "DOT 3 or DOT 4."

I was told that any system that can use DOT 3 can also use DOT 4. There are old systems that spec only DOT 3. New systems spec DOT 3 or DOT 4. DOT 4 simply has a higher boiling point which is an improvement over DOT 3. Both grades are really the same fluid. You can stick it in any system that spec 3, 4 or 3 or 4.

DOT 5 has a higher boiling point. I have heard that it will leak past the seals on the 14s systems. Scotty seems to be having good luch so far though. Scotty, I woould guess that there was a small amount of grungy orange fluid in your system that mixed with the purple of the DOT 5. Those colors mixed together would reflect very little light. You get black or something very black-ISH.

rook the bottle of fluid i put in does not say which dot it is but its for ABS and says it exceeds dot 3&4 so as i read up i find out dot5 is not to be used in ABS system so that rules that out but then i see they make a dot5.1 which is made for ABS and is polyglycol based like 3&4 where 5 is silicone based so alls good.....i think lol

i guess time will tell, maybe i should just keep the 5 in it when i put the new lines on i completly (as much as possible w/o tearing everything apart) emptied and flushed with the new fluid going in with 1/2 a bottle. In the words of clint eastwood what a "cluster fuk" lol guess ill have to keep an eye on it for awhile. then if they start leaking ill have the excuse to switch to the Brembo system $$$$$$$$$$

Hey I just learned all this too! As a matter of fact the brake work I just did; when i was at the shop i picked up the DOT 5.0 and the guy said "that's silicone - you don't want that." So I set it down and grabbed the Bel-Ray Dot4. If I had been alone I probably would have been in your shoes and not been the wiser. I just learned this because of your case! So thanks.

I was told that any system that can use DOT 3 can also use DOT 4. There are old systems that spec only DOT 3. New systems spec DOT 3 or DOT 4. DOT 4 simply has a higher boiling point which is an improvement over DOT 3. Both grades are really the same fluid. You can stick it in any system that spec 3, 4 or 3 or 4.

DOT 5 has a higher boiling point. I have heard that it will leak past the seals on the 14s systems. Scotty seems to be having good luch so far though. Scotty, I woould guess that there was a small amount of grungy orange fluid in your system that mixed with the purple of the DOT 5. Those colors mixed together would reflect very little light. You get black or something very black-ISH.

wow, Rook. lol

How Brake Fluid is rated

As you are most likely already aware Brake Fluid is graded by the ‘DOT’ system which is short for the ‘Department of Transport’ or more namely the US Department of Transport the criteria for grading Brake fluid is stipulated in the US national standards paper # FMVSS 116.
These standards stipulate 13 separate testing criteria not just the commonly held misconception of just boiling point. These tests include:
1. Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point (ERBP)
2. Wet ERBP
3. Kinematic Viscosity
4. Ph Value
5. Fluid Stability
6. Corrosion
7. Fluidity and Appearance
8. Water Tolerance
9. Compatibility
10. Resistance to Oxidation
11. Effect on SBR Cups
12. Stroking Properties
13. Container Information
The following chart lists some key specifications of the various types of fluid, the chemical composition of the fluid is formulated in order to meet the criteria.

Manufacturers design their vehicles for a particular type of fluid, if a vehicle was produced with DOT 3 fluid, the internal components of the system (seals, brake hoses, and fittings etc) were specifically designed and tested for compatibility with DOT 3. Because DOT 4 fluids contain a different chemical composition, the system may not necessarily react in a positive fashion to the borate esters or silicones making up the compound.
There is also the possibility of the difference in viscosity of the two different fluids causing the seals to flex or even wear at different rates.
*Borate esters are highly irritant and pose a high risk of skin & serious eye damage. Independent studies have shown links to birth defects and are also considered carcinogens .
Resource Material :
MSDS No.: 15012, 15032, 15000, 15005, 15055, 533. 899.
OVSC LABORATORY TEST PROCEDURE NO. 116

Sorry guys this is the stuff I do all day every day. It's an extract from a paper I wrote on the subject some time back

* Last updated by: Brenny on 4/29/2011 @ 11:42 AM *