G’day guys, wonder if the oracle can help ?
I have a 2012 14R & about to head off to motorcycle heaven in Tasmania, 12 hour ferry trip overnight, down below Australia. Giving the bike the once over & checking settings.
Turns out the top of the left fork leg has 15 notches / clicks for adjustment of rebound, while the right leg only has 8 .
Something isn’t right
Any thoughts please
Not sure if I’ll b able to get back on here for a few days though
Guess I’ll b taking it slightly easier until I find out.
Many thanks.

* Last updated by: banknyank on 3/5/2018 @ 2:56 AM *

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They need to be equally adjusted.If you want the factory ride,adjust to book specs.AND your compression down below.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/5/2018 @ 3:52 AM *

Thanks Grn, I appreciate they need to be the same.
I CANNOT get them the same.
There are only 8 clicks to be had on the right fork leg, & thats all she wrote, there is no more.
I have had them set at 10 clicks out from fully closed previously.

* Last updated by: banknyank on 3/5/2018 @ 3:58 AM *

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Have the forks been torn down before? Seals, fluid, etc.

I'm guessing that the top cap wasn't set properly
or rod wasn't inserted properly.

Not to worry, you're fine for now, ride on.

Even if each fork has different setting's they will
equal each other out. Kinds like 8 and 4 = 6 overall.

Just set to your preference and next time have forks apart you
can double check everything.

Even if each fork has different setting's they will equal each other out. Kinds like 8 and 4 = 6 overall.

I think only spring rate will give that kind of readout. I've tried different settings for each fork, ie, not even numbers. It gave a harsh ride kind of. The rebound and compression were just not balanced as if you ran an 8-4=6 combo. The hex flats look beat up so maybe someone was in there and didn't back off the clicks for removal.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/5/2018 @ 8:47 AM *

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Point being is your fine until you get a chance to tear down the
forks and inspect.

Even at the exact same settings, the individual forks respond differently
at least the OEM's do.

Could probably get settings to match on a shock dyno, but not worth it
because they will compensate each other.

I would like to know how 8+4 doesn't equal 6?
Ok, maybe something like 5.5 and not 6

Are you saying the axle or fork tube bends to compensate?
Once the axle is tighten they become 1 unit.

There are forks that only have comp on one leg and rebound on the other leg.

You can even run different springs in each let too.

* Last updated by: piken on 3/5/2018 @ 9:30 AM *

Yep the forks were resprung / valved to match the Ohlins that’s now in the back. Not by me, but by the specialists
( supposed ??? )
Take your points guys.
I’m not sure now of 2 things
Is it safe to punt along for a week long trip ?
Guess I’ll be in cruise mode, NOT cruise Missile mode. Disappointing been looking forward to getting it ON.
It does feel a bit harsh thinking about it Hub.
I’m heading off tommorow any way, no other bike to ride
Am I getting fully closed OR fully open on the 8 click leg ? ?
Can’t imagine I’d be getting both
Appreciate the input

* Last updated by: banknyank on 3/5/2018 @ 1:16 PM *

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Is it safe to punt along for a week long trip ?

Yes

Guess I’ll be in cruise mode, NOT cruise Missile mode

Missile mode is ok

Am I getting fully closed OR fully open on the 8 click leg ? ?

Not sure and for now doesn't matter.

If you are running let's say 7 clicks on the 15 click fork
set other fork to 4 on the 8 click fork and test.

Check front end by pushing down on it. Hows it rebounding?
Adjust both, should try to match rear shock rebound.

Forks act as 1 unit. Doesn't matter if ones at like 8 clicks and other at like 4 clicks.
As long as you can get rebound at the right rate, you are good to go into missile mode.

My guess is you will be able to get rebound in proper range, forget about it and enjoy your trip.

Take back to "experts" after trip and have them fix it.

Is it safe to punt along for a week long trip ?

I rode my Gen 1 with forks set at different clicks for years. It didn't seem to make much difference. I wouldn't worry about a couple clicks difference but of course, I wouldn't leave it like that forever.

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I researched a little on the ohlins site. Seems the specs say 20/20 clicks for both comp and rebound rods. I'm going to assume these are not the replacement kits because of the stock looking caps. Ohlins stamp their caps saying C or R so you know who is whom. Internally, I can't decipher who or what part they changed so as to have a limited click on the one fork cap.

Spring rate wise, yes, you can have a combo of a 10 and 9 spring, add both, divide by 2 = 9.5 spring rate for the one triple being locked as one spring rate. Owner's manual even states to have both forks with even clicks. When I meant harsh, I messed with the different clicks and comp was more the harsh hit because the other comp click was lowered, therefore the imbalanced whack of the bump. I reset to both clicks being even, the bump took on a linear ingestion that didn't grab my attention.

It does feel a bit harsh thinking about it Hub.

I magic mark my settings on the bike so I know where it was set last. So say I come up with a few scenarios: one would be the removal of the first cap which was not screwed out first and oops. The other has a full range of clicks knowing what not to do? What little pdf's I could find, I came across Ohlins using an even click range. So you consider that a constant with the design no matter it being the C or R internal caps. The other scenario is to find out what was changed to set one with limited clicks, if the OE cap lost that internal ability. That would answer that.

What little I know, my approach would be to first set sag to your weight anshit. The outcome is to have both front and rear act as one spring, meaning, compress and rebound evenly. That and no sag at the front or rear but the chassis leveled to your weight. The quick and dirty would be to set the one fork to whatever the other fork is limited to. Take it for a ride and go over a few bumps. Feel rideable?

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"Am I getting fully closed OR fully open on the 8 click leg ? ?"...clockwise would normally be closed.CC would be open.Q:...are BOTH forks showing that wear on the top cap?And which one is only going 8 clicks?What's the other one allowing.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/5/2018 @ 6:23 PM *

I phoned the shop, the last pull down was for fork seals. I explained, was told that they couldn’t of backed off the clicks b4 the dismantle causing this issue & they will put it right after my trip.
I do appreciate your non biased opinions guys.
I only have an Ohlins in the rear Hub, the front was Re sprung / valved to suit my weight etc. but not Ohlins
All up the forks been apart at least 4 times plus my external adjustments, they do look a bit beaten up don’t they.
The 1st rebuild was a complete balls up, when I went to collect the bike the guy says, sorry I can’t let you take it today it’s not safe to ride !! Holy crap !! & he’s advertising as a specialist
It didn’t go back to him again.
Off on the overnight ferry to Tasmania tonight. 29 of us, awesome.
See how it goes.
Thanks again.

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God...have a great time and take lots of pics!Have fun...

There’s some big rats in Tasmania

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Suicidal Rats I see....;)

or "Tassie," as our old buddy ben would call it. I'm guessing that one was hit by someone else? Your bike looks fine.

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Yep, ( by others ) Rook.
Number one rule over here no riding after dark. Too many nocturnal beasties to trip you up.
Got the front end pretty well set up.
But I can’t help ponder a set of Ohlins forks ?
To match the back, I just about forget the back ( Ohlins end ), but never quite seem as happy with the front,
Awesome day today, roads, weather, company, the whole matching set

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Nice, it helps when you have the fastest color bike too

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Last year, from a suggestion by Dave Moss, I had the fluid changed in my 06' 14. While doing that I had the shop put in new seals and set the triple tree down 3/8". At the time I was switching from 8 clicks to 10 clicks depending on riding solo or 2-up. I noticed the right fork max was 8 clicks!

Because of this and the fact I had never done it before, I closed them both, test ride, then opened 2 clicks at a time and another test ride. Same road, same bumps, same speed, same lean, to determine the difference. If you haven't done it, full closed was a bit scary for me. As I progressed opening 2 clicks at a time, I got a pretty good idea, that there actually is a difference I could easily detect by a change of 2 clicks but not so much 1 click at a time. By the time I got to 8 clicks each, everything felt good. So I kept it at 8 for the 3-4 days I rode until putting it back in the shop.

The shop said they think they got the rod out of alignment. When I got it back, everything was back to normal, with full adjustment on both sides. (the mechanic and I had a discussion about fully testing his work in the future!!).

BTW: As others have found out, setting the triple tree down was a great improvement for my riding style. I will go to 5/8" this spring, which I think will make it even better but still stable for 2-up and touring.

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BTW: As others have found out, setting the triple tree down was a great improvement for my riding style. I will go to 5/8" this spring, which I think will make it even better but still stable for 2-up and touring.

I wish I could do that with my Ohlins forks but raising the forks also reduces ground clearance in the front, don't forget.

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I wish I could do that with my Ohlins forks but raising the forks also reduces ground clearance in the front, don't forget.

Good that you mention that Rook for those who may be reading and not yet that familiar with the Gen1 low clearance. Although not caused by lowering, in 2007 I broke the drain plug and pan on my 06' and it doesn't take long to drain the oil! I pulled away from the incident causing the break, felt something wrong with the back end, a fellow rider pointing for me to pull over. Shutting it down and dismounting I watched the remaining oil drain to the ground. It took about 1 minute to drain 4 quarts!

Anytime I hear about someone lowering a ZX14 street bike to get their heels on the ground I have to wonder if they considered the weak point of the OEM pan and drain plug design. I learned the hard way but fortunately caused no harm to my engine. It did cost me a tow, a week without the bike and about $200 bucks to replace the pan.

Sorry to get off topic.

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There’s ride height adjustment on the rear Ohlins, I’ve got it wound UP to it’s max, quicker steering no loss of clearance.
Lucky escape, EagleSix. Could of been nasty. You must be pushing along some. Or dropping off a concrete curb ?
Do u think your Ohlins forks were worth the $$,s Rook. ?
Is there more than one model of Ohlins forks available ?

* Last updated by: banknyank on 3/10/2018 @ 10:46 PM *

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Good that you mention that Rook for those who may be reading and not yet that familiar with the Gen1 low clearance.

Yeah low clearance but probably not a lot better with any other sport bike. The issue with raising the forks is twofold. lower clearance for bumps and wheelie landings but also, lower cornering clearance in a lean. The side of the lower fairing will scrape with less lean.

There’s ride height adjustment on the rear Ohlins, I’ve got it wound UP to it’s max, quicker steering no loss of clearance.

I have not changed mine from stock height yet but I can see how raising the back is a better way to steepen the rake because it does not sacrifice ground clearance at any lean angle. You actually gain more cornering clearance, especially in back at the muffler.

Do u think your Ohlins forks were worth the $$,s Rook. ?
Is there more than one model of Ohlins forks available ?

They are beautiful but A) because of the flat sides of the tubes, it would be unsafe to raise them much if you wanted to do that, B) they do not wallow like the stockers but this has not equated to higher speeds in corners for me---this is just a big ol' bike no matter what you do--maybe I will be able to exploit the highly stable Ohlins forks someday but as is often the case, skill is more important than the equipment you run, C) they are the same weight as stock forks and D) you need to be more careful if you use a forklift stand---the Onhlins fork bottoms don't have as deep of a notch for the lift pads to fit up into--mine slipped off and dropped a couple inches one time as I lowered it to the floor.

As for models, there is the updated FGRTs and the older FGRTs. IDK the exact dif but I have the older model which I purchased used. Little more than half price. Full price, is too much IMO. Go with internals and put a racetech sticker on the side of the stock tubes for bling. The fork bottom is what makes the fork fit the 14. That and perhaps the length of the tube? IDK if you could have ZX-14 fork bottoms put on a different model of Ohlins tube...or if there is another model of tube?? Maybe they are all FGRTs for all bikes and the fork bottom is what adapts to the specific bike.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/12/2018 @ 5:24 PM *

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Very informative Rook
Thanks for the knowledge

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There are factory modifications you can order with Ohlins. Spring rate, of course but mine also have Ohlins spacers inside which lengthen the travel.

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