Anybody replace their warped front rotors with the EBC lite replacements? I've got some of these along with their premium sinistered pads coming via UPS. If anyone is interested, I'll relay the results after I install them.

How can I run 100% front brake bias and not one disc is out of spec. It has to be the hand on the lever. You will warp those the same way... Is it you or the OEM? How can one person cook that little ring and others do not?

Hub, unbelievably I see what your saying and originally felt the same way when I heard of others warping them. I have owned many bikes and have never warped a brake rotor on a cage or a bike. I am typically very easy on brakes, I do a lot of engine braking and I apply front and rear brakes together in most braking situations. I realize there is naturally a front brake weight bias because of physics and inertia but it's not increased by any improper application of the front lever alone from high speeds. My bike does have over 18 K on it now so maybe the thickness of the O.E.M. or heat disappation qualities are limited. The thing that puzzles me is the rotors had no blueing from overheating that warped rotors normally display.

Please do!
And would you mind weighing them before you install them also?
I thought my rotors were warped a while back. Turned out to just be a bad tire though.
Now I've got some pulse again. This time I only feel it in the lever not the front end. I'm thinking it is most likely a bad rotor. My bike has close to 14k on it and just survived it's first brush with the winter temps. I'm wondering if hot brakes during cold winter rides was more than the stockers could handle.

Dogozx: Yeah tryed to clean mine thoroughly or deglaze mine (sanding)first which help a little then it returned with vengeance. I'll try to dig up a digital fish scale to weigh them but they are supposed to be lighter.

* Last updated by: Bluebyyou on 6/1/2009 @ 9:22 AM *

Say I have 6k on the bike now. That is twice the stab on the rear. So, for argument sake, double the disc and say I have 12K on the fronts.

The day I met UB up at the rock with his finished turbo, I [we] saw this puck-puck-puck-profile on my disc. I was on some crazy speed stabbing that brake, using some hot pulsing stabs to the lever. Remember, I had no rear brake in the back of the '06 14 I had.

Not one peep of a squeak or warp as is the 14 today. Are the discs going to burn up in the mid teens, as in warp at your mileage? I think, Paint, has a lot more mileage and he does not mention a warp or squeak. WOT gives?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/1/2009 @ 9:35 AM *

Mine were doing the "warped rotor" dance as well-It juddered pretty good at harder applications there.Changed out my pads(they had 20,000 miles on em,but still looked okay)with Galfer HH ceramic,composite,sintered pads.Broke em in like HUB said.So far,I've got 700 miles on em,no pulsing or juddering.Hope they stay like this.I'm not gonna practice any "emergency stops" with these(like I did with the others).Soon after those sessions-she started doing the dance.We'll see.

DogoZX: Why did ya make me weigh 'em??? The new pro-lite's weigh more than the O.E.M. rotors. 3 lbs versus 2 lbs 9 oz.

DogoZX: Why did ya make me weigh 'em??? The new pro-lite's weigh more than the O.E.M. rotors. 3 lbs versus 2 lbs 9 oz.

Sorry, but that is why. I didn't know that they would be heavier, but had heard most aftermarkets weigh more than our stockers.
Thanks for weighing them, though.
I actually have a set of BrakeTech ductile rotors on the way. They are for my zx10, but are the 310mm upgrade so they would also work on the zx14. When they get here, I'll toss 'em on a scale to see how they compare.
I suspect that they will weigh more also.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 6/1/2009 @ 10:53 AM *

I warped my first set at 7500 miles and they were replaced under warranty. I sold the bike Saturday and the front rotors were slightly warped again. Both times it happened it was after a Deals Gap trip I noticed they were warped. So I'm pretty sure it was my fault for trying to make a zx14 do things it was not designed to do. I'm also 240lb so the combination of a heavy rider, a heavy bike and heavy braking may have been the culprit

I had what I thought might be front rotor probs early on with my 14....but it turned out to be tire cupping on my front BT-014 with 2500 or so miles if I remember right? I figured it can't be the tire at this mileage right?..........it sure'nuff was tho Front tires are like batteries, a bad one of both can have you chasing all kinds of other probs

BrakeTech ductiles 310mm x 5.5mm

More that your Pro-Lites, Blue. Are they 5.5 min thickness or 4.5, like our stockers?
How are your brakes with the new rotors and pads?

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 6/9/2009 @ 10:33 AM *

4.5 mm. So far so good better than new.

* Last updated by: Bluebyyou on 6/9/2009 @ 12:21 PM *

4.5 mm. So far so good better than new.

I have the same juddery shakey feeling at high speeds with mine, I thought all along it was my rotors that were warped so I did some investigating. I am a tool and die maker by trade so I have an endless supply of tools and indicators to work with, all I can say in my case is that they are NOT warped. They are flat AND parallell within .001 which is as good as it is gonna get. I took a flat stone and worked with the rotors for a bit and also the brake pads themself, after re-assembly the judder went away, now several thousand miles later it is back. Something clearly is going on here but it's not the rotors, as mentioned earlier the pads are the suspect in possible combination with the front tire. No way in hell your going to warp a stainless rotor whithout the tell tale signs of excessive heat, if it did not turn a blueish color from heat, it aint bent.

Quote of TaintedTattoo: I have the same juddery shakey feeling at high speeds with mine, I thought all along it was my rotors that were warped so I did some investigating. I am a tool and die maker by trade so I have an endless supply of tools and indicators to work with, all I can say in my case is that they are NOT warped. They are flat AND parallell within .001 which is as good as it is gonna get. I took a flat stone and worked with the rotors for a bit and also the brake pads themself, after re-assembly the judder went away, now several thousand miles later it is back. Something clearly is going on here but it's not the rotors, as mentioned earlier the pads are the suspect in possible combination with the front tire. No way in hell your going to warp a stainless rotor whithout the tell tale signs of excessive heat, if it did not turn a blueish color from heat, it aint bent..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... Yeah I thought the same thing. As I posted previously I am not a heavy braker, I engine brake a lot, and had absolutely no blueing of the rotors. It could possibly have to do with the caliper pistons partially sticking or not working smoothly in their bores, I still don't know for sure. I replaced my rotors with new HH pads even though the O.E. pads had plenty of thickness left at 18k miles when they were changed. They work great now but I'm still not sure if it was the rotors themselves.

* Last updated by: Bluebyyou on 7/14/2009 @ 7:38 AM *

I was getting a vibration like a warped rotor too, then put new tires on it and it went away.

This is what I found on MY bike.Original Rotors and pads.Okay,I did some "emergency"braking practice.70,80 mph stops-all the way down to a stopped motorcycle(hard braking).At a complete stop,I had my front brake still held in.After several runs doing that-my brakes had the dance going on.It was pretty pronounced at most any firm braking application after that.I did a "search" on the web-I think it was on a couple of manufacturer sites.They said that in hard braking,if you stop the bike with the brake still applied,the heat from the disc and the pads will(being squeezed into the rotor when it's VERY HOT)cause some sort of "deformation"for lack of a better word.They advised to NOT allow the pads to remain against the rotor in this situation.(at a dead stop).Okay-It made sense to me.I replaced a while back my pads with HH sintered composite from Galper.The juddering was gone-and has remained gone now for SEVERAL thousand miles.I still apply firm braking,but I let off and use back brakes more as I slow(still applying front along with it)May be something to it-what they said.Anyway-that's what happened with mine.

well i had the same problem with my brakes and i`m right at 10,000 miles. the front was jumping & moving way to much when heavy braking was applied. felt like it was pulsating so i just bought the ebc rotor and brake combo and problem solved. the oem rotors weren`t blue and didn`t look like they were warped at all. i even tried new pads before i went all out on the new rotors and the problem still was there. big guy big bike heavy braking? who knows....so now i`m worry free with EBC....

* Last updated by: NINJARYDER on 7/21/2009 @ 3:24 AM *

Remember guys the front brakes on the 14 are SUPER aggressive stoppers...some of the best front brakes made for a bike. They work MEGA hard to stop the 14 like they do. I think they just overpower the front pads, and to a degree the front disks as well. I don't hit the corners that hard...but I love my high speeds. So far these animal brakes destroyed the stock front tire at 2500 miles, but otherwise seem fine for my riding style so far (fingers crossed).

I read how the GP guys keep a load on the brakes so they stop the wheel chatter. Imagine that on the brake/Hose Year Daddy!

Hose yer daddy! Hose Year Daddy!

i believe i can shed some light on the warped rotor issues with zx 14. i too had pulsating at the lever on my bike and this was within the first 5000 km , i checked rotor runout and found it to be well within spec , i had noticed a uneven buildup of pad material on the discs, i cleaned this off and the pulsating disappeared but only for a short time , i have since replace pads with ebc hh and cleaned discs agian, have been to the local racetrack several times and are on my second set of ebc pads at 30000 km , i use my brakes hard and have had no more problems since changing pads.
i believe the problem in a lot of cases is uneven build up of pad material on the discs. im not saying that some riders have not had warped rotors but i beleive in a lot of cases it is pad material buildup being mistaken for warped rotors but this is only my opinion , i am not a machanic but service my own bikes to the highest degree and am very capable turning a spanner.

Good to know the EBC's are working well, since I got some EBC HH sitting in garage for when the time comes .....

i had noticed a uneven buildup of pad material on the discs, i cleaned this off and the pulsating disappeared but only for a short time

:::but at the time was the old pads showing signs of excessive wear or was you able to see a visual build up on certain parts of the rotor or did it circle the whole thing

[/quote]:::but at the time was the old pads showing signs of excessive wear or was you able to see a visual build up on certain parts of the rotor or did it circle the whole thing
pads were not showing much wear at all and i could see the build up on the discs this was uneven witch prompted me to clean the discs, not sure why i was getting this build up but possible because i did not bed in pads correctly? when i fitted ebc i made sure to bed in correctly, ie multiple stops at 60mph and then let pads cool off copletely