This is more a Q&A section, but who cares, here goes:
Yes = Necessary for changing the AFR.
No = The tools are more for downloading history/current codes. You need a lot more hardware (cables for a laptop) and the proper ECU (software) to gain access to the; fuel maps/gear maps/ignition maps/ect. This is a race kit-ECU in other words. You step up to the real AMA/MotoGP kind of programmable ECU.
Correct = Not able to change like like the 800. This is more a preset black box.
Yes, there is a huge difference. Think of the un-programmable Z's ECU, as the pc3. Think of the pcV as the kit-ECU, with more programs to plug in, with more 'cables,' for more 'AFR' readings = A Dyno on wheels.
This says, I should think ahead or just choose a map off line, or have it dyno'd and ruin my delicate cam chain spring.
Also, this says that the 3 and V do use the same 'software' compatibility, yes. As far as saving a few coin on one end, you more or less have extra garage space if you choose the V. The 3 is like a one car garage.
I'm just saying, the V has the ability to install an 02 sensor, 'learn' a more programmed map, meaning, your base map runs ??? [of X to Y's], or you pretty much are hitting on all 4's. Whereas with the 3? Well, you are stuck with that X to Y you plotted into the rpm and throttle opening. Those two interject each time you go out. However, if the V was in the loop, it would continue to learn at the 02 [until you changed a map]. But say, you moved to a different slip set? The 02 would sniff a tiny bit of that change. Handcuffed is the 3.
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Why the PC?
Good question. This is for more-more-more a refined tuning tool. More HP is the goal. Smooth power. Raw power. Lean running. Lots of choices like more of it. I run leaner than factory without a pc. You are going to putt with way too much wasted fuel. You will have a muffler that is still hosing down the sound (power). Your air flow is not at a high rate of speed on the street.
Someone asked if it was OK to run with header only? Knowing this is a preset bike that knows only the goings on at the intake side, it was a mute point to use a pc. No matter how fast you open up that throttle, stretch the con rod bolts, just to wear those few hours lost on that peg of the needle, did the engine keep up with your throttle move is of course it did.
What you need to recognize is how you will use the bike. Will you need a pc for a muffler to muffler change? No. Will you 'want' more power? It depends on what you want to do next. Do you 'need' more power? Would trying the pipe first, note what power changed? Then, confirm a loss somewhere from the bottom end, or whatever you feel, is going to be new/sound/feeligheright?
Why, there is more ball to be had if you uncork her. The pc is now more the ball is in your court.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time