I took my front rotors off to change tyres (that was an experience... used good ol tar arns!)

The bolts have the red "locking compound". Same as what was on the engine subframe bolts.
When I just "re-used" the subframe bolts they didn't really feel locked, so I wire brushed the red stuff off and used fresh loktite.

What is the recommendation for the rotor bolts? Keep the red stuff and re-use, or clean and use medium loktite?

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I remove mine each time I spoon on a new tire to prevent accidental damage. I've never applied more Loctite. They won't thread in or out by hand (must use a hex socket or allen wrench) so no reason to glop up the threads anymore than they already are.

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I removed the OEM rotors yesterday and they had a lot of red locktite. I thought about it for a little while but decided to go with Blue locktite, I didn't see any reason to go all out, like Danno said they won't come out by hand...

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I would do what you did. Reuse the red OEM gunk but if that doesn't seem to be intact enough that it will lock, best to apply fresh, blue locktight.

I would think the OEM stuff is good for at least three times.

I remove mine each time I spoon on a new tire to prevent accidental damage.

Not a bad idea. I think I will chance it but I had one mishap handling wheels with rotors on. Picked the rear wheel up by the rotor and the whole coupling cover pulled right out. The wheel fell on my tire changer and gashed the paint. Good thing I learned that with my OEM wheels and not the Carros.

I removed the OEM rotors yesterday and they had a lot of red locktite. I thought about it for a little while but decided to go with Blue locktite, I didn't see any reason to go all out, like Danno said they won't come out by hand...

Many are aware of this, but it deserves mentioning that the OEM thread locking agent is red (or it appears pink after the bolt is removed). It is a hard, dough consistency and is NON-permanent. I do NOT know why Kawi chose to make there proprietary non-permannet thread locking agent the same color as permanent thread locking agent that is made by the automotive products companies such as Permatex. I only use the blue stuff or I leave the pink OEM locktight on the threads if it seems good for another round. Red permatex would ordinarily only be for a bolt that is meant to stay in for ever.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/13/2013 @ 1:04 PM *

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When I bought the BST'S I used red,when I changed the BST's over from the 07 to the 2012 I had to change the rotors.After stressing out for a bit I decided to heat the allen key to remove the rotor bolts.I had no problems removing them,but it was a pain cleaning the threads,I used red again even though I had blue on the shelf

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Thanks all, glad I'm not the only one to have pondered this.

In the end I just reused the OEM except for 1 bolt which I could turn by hand.
I wire brushed off that one and added blue.

When the OEM stops being tacky, should I use a tap to get the stuff out of then holes?
I didn't have the correct size so I didn't this time, but wondered for next time..

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Oz do not use a tap!You could use a thread chaser(worn tap)I used dental picks and beer,the beer because it was a time consuming pain to clean the threads

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I think I will chance it-Rook

I have $600 worth of Galfer front rotors. I'm not taking any chances.

* Last updated by: Danno on 3/13/2013 @ 7:19 PM *

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I wouldn't bother cleaning the threads, either. Loctite is just plastic wax, it's can't harm the threads.

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When I bought the BST'S I used red,when I changed the BST's over from the 07 to the 2012 I had to change the rotors.After stressing out for a bit I decided to heat the allen key to remove the rotor bolts.I had no problems removing them,but it was a pain cleaning the threads,I used red again even though I had blue on the shelf

Just like the old fly screw removal trick. Works like a charm.

When the OEM stops being tacky, should I use a tap to get the stuff out of then holes?
I didn't have the correct size so I didn't this time, but wondered for next time..

I don't know what the others are gonna say on this but I have to weigh in here...OH FOCK NO!!!!
You will remove a lot more than thread locking agent. I have used taps a couple times in the last year and they remove metal. That's how they work their magic. Threads are messed up; the tap cuts in a bit deeper to reestablish threads. The farther you screw it in, the more aggresively it cuts. Only when all else fails.

I had to clean up the threads on my busa header bolt hole threads in the engine block. The guy told me only turn in the first 1 or two threads ...if that works, you got it done. Metal was cut away but it worked. Totally not necessary to remove thread locking agent.

You know what I do? I am totally anal ...I would bet I am the worst guy here about being over meticulous.

I leave the old thread locking agent on. Yup. I don't clean it off at all. Dab a little fresh stuff on the threads of both shank and hole. Screw 'em together. Never had a problem with that.

I wouldn't bother cleaning the threads, either. Loctite is just plastic wax, it's can't harm the threads.

See there? ^^^^What he said.

I have $600 worth of Galfer front rotors. I'm not taking any chances.

Nor would I, bro.

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I have differing experience regarding internal thread cleaning.

I routinely use sharp finishing taps to chase threads for contaminants (old oil/grease, threadlocker, etc) for years with great success. The only time metal is removed is when the threads are damaged or, in some cases, the OEM tool that initially cut the threads was worn.

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Hagrid,I believe a thread chaser is a tap that will not cut new threads but clean up old or damaged threads(a worn out tap? )

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Darryl: there are tools dedicated to cleaning and "repairing" internal threads called a chase. Some shotguns with remove able chokes come with a chase on the choke tube wrench.

In my own experience, a sharp tap serves two functions: to cut threads into a hole and chase existing threads.
A chase serves only one of those.

As far as damaging existing threads with a tap, that can only happen if you mis-use the tap or use the wrong tap.

Think about it: the manufacturer used a tap to cut the threads into your bike. If you use a tap with the same dimensions, and the threads weren't damaged, you will not do any cutting. The tap will run down into the bore just like a bolt and never throw a chip.

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You know, if you just pay attention and use care, you don't need to remove the rotors at all. I never do to change tires, maybe I've just been lucky..

Mad

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Yeah I will be leaving my Braketech Axis Cobra on... It will allow for accurate tire balancing IMO. I know they should come out of the factory just perfect but ya neva know!

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Bottom line,use a good,new tap that is not made in china

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Bottom line,use a good,new tap that is not made in china,heres a bit of info on Penetrating Oils
"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.

Average torque load to loosen nut:
No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

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well, as mentioned I used a tap two times in the past year. Had not used one before that for a few decades. Yes, The threads I tapped were damaged except for the the last time. Brand new Irwin tap run into a brand new Pro-Bolt Sprocket nut that spun freely on a bolt of the same pitch. I tapped it because it was very tight on the brand new sprocket studs of my new rim. Metal got removed from the bolt threads. I saw it and I felt it. If you think you need to tap threads to remove thread locking agent, I'd make sure the tap goes right through with ease otherwise you are prolly removing metal. Fine if the threads are corroded or damaged but not worth it for thread locking agent IMHO.

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