Congrats on the record run, and ouch on the dead over the line scenario.
How about a key on, kill off so no pump is running, simultaneously hold down Mode and Trip buttons on the dash pod and wait. What code was saved if any? Now let go of the buttons. That number would show who in the chain is tied in? Say cam sensor throws a code but it's tied in with the crank sensor. I'm sure maybe one more makes 3, if you catch my drift? So even though it may spit a cam code, it might be the crank's sensor instead. Beware of the goose chase in other words.
well before the 4 mile mark the engine shut off (definitely ignition). He clutched it and costed across the line. After he stopped the engine fire right up.
See if you are following my train of thought on this on. On this run, we are looking at a cooler running (less time pushing the resistance building engine heat) engine I would imagine. So heat is out of the equation because it would light right back up.
But at at the end of the track the engine would not start. A hour or so later it started right up
Whereas this run made a little more heat say but still cut out. I'm going to rule out heat at the moment. If say the code number is the spark stick from 51 thru 54, it just said it didn't see a good known signal entering input. So this is more or less a phantom code. The one that's tide in with the sparkstick is ________ fill in the blank? Say I'm not as sure as the cam/crank scenario. So say the water temp sensor would do what? Sets a digital formula to read off of. This still stays running if the water temp fails. One starts right up, the other time it took an hour?
The question is; have the gear position sensor wires been compromised like an aftermarket part is tied in with the connectors? And if so, is there some accessory gear position box somewhere near the dash pod area? Or if say you can read the stock gear position window and is there an N showing when you put it in 1st gear lets say and the green light goes off? Or how about the number 6 in the gear window and the bike is in neutral with the green light on? This might be something to look at or rule out all together.
Here's what little I know about the processor. If we have the bike stop in said scenarios, we'd want to save the volatile RAM (random access memory) that is ready to read with key still on. We want to read the code set, so we hold down the M and T buttons and wait for the code to popup. If we turn the engine off, the RAM is dumped to ground. However, it is saved in the ECU, but (possibly) gone at the dash. So next time--wink-wink.
Here's another example. If say I pop off a throttle position sensor's connector, turn the key on, the dash is going to popup a code or say you can't read the dash until you hold down both M&T buttons to see the code appear. I'm trying to recall so it may do something else than what I remember. Say the key is still on, the dash blinks or the screen has changed. Now, plug the sensor's connector back on with key still on. The blink goes away, the code clears, it now recognizes the correct input value and is back to a normal screen.
Sticking with the same example, how about we turn the key off knowing the code. We reinstall the tps connector. We turn the key back on. There are no blinks or change at the dash display. The code is erased, we are back to zero. In binary speak that is. Say as the bike runs the ECU sees a good known input value of say 1011 in binary speak. So that's analog input without codes being set. But now the ECU wants to know who is not sending in signal. If no signal sent, the bike will code as if you disconnected the connector or wire out of the sensor. So with key turned back on, the volatile is wiped clean. ECU knows where the bike is at this moment. Not running. That says no codes, all systems go, the ECU is ready for new input from the RAM. So the the numbers now read: 0000 the bike starts at 0 (zero).
So when you turned the key off and back on, you might find me saying, ah, excuse me, sir, but 0000 started at zero the first time and 0000 every time the key is cycled = Clears The RAM. I know. What's wrong with the good old carb I have to go thru this to tune the thing. The ride stops here. Without the code it's a chase. And I don't know where to start? And if no code with the key-on-test...????
This is going to be off the wall I know, but say I don't want to rule out my "Current 20/20 Hindsight" variable. Check the "Joint Connectors." I am more focused on the condition of that ground section for group connection deterioration. This is located at the right side front nose area. From the headlight main harness, there is an off on its own wire harness. It has a finger length of tape wrapped around this little joint box. It should be easy to find dangling out of its own wrapped tape from the main harness. If you can't see the black-yellow trace wire, pull the tape away for the box area. You're just looking to see if any heat is beginning to bleed more off the volt/reg spiking to ground. It has to be cooked some for it to cut the engine out. And I mean it has to be BBQ'd some. If it looks brand new and not all bubbled at the plastic, covering the copper wire, then goose chase it was. Start looking at known trouble points if say the v/r is giving out AC. It's going to fllow the shortest path. And that's the ground wire out of the v/r. It's found under the seat on the right seat rail. Those wires should look clean and uncooked. Those do not ground but send the path, right? Unless the green electro got to the pins.
More goose chasing. 2018-2006 = 12 years of electrolysis at the connector pins. Theory: "Magnetism ~ You cannot separate the heat from the chemical reaction." If I think resistance and something has to push thru the green stuff on the pins? If I just pull the connectors off and on a few times, I breakup the electo, scratch a new path, chase or question that variable away... and that's if no code or not in that environment????
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time