Hey everyone.
I am considering removing the flies on my bike but have a couple of questions..
1- any reason to remove them from a stock 2011 ZX-14?
2 - will I get fuel injection error if I remove them?

My bike is a totally stock 2011 ZX14.
I have bought some slip ons but haven't installed them yet.

thanks for info. I've owned a fleet of ninjas
and riding them since 1986. This is my first zx14.

You could remove them with no problems, but with a set of slip-ons ready etc, you could flash that sucker and not need to remove them nor would you need a powercommander for a flawless refined tune. Just thinkin out loud here.

Thanks forgive my ignorance. Are you referring to sending my stock ECU and have it re flashed for opening the butterflies and enriching the fuel mixture ( slip ons)

I was just lookin for some more bottom end in my 14.
0-6000 rims it doesn't impress me.
6K+ you better have it pointed in the direction you want LoL.

I was thinking about removing the flies to see if it would help out on the bottom rpm range.

And just removing the flies will definitely help in the region you describe. There is more there with a flash because of adjusting the fuel maps and removing stock limiters and unifying the maps withing each cylinder and gear. You end up wih a more refined power and greater quantity of it everywhere.

There is the Gen 1 Cblast flash with slip-ons. 180hp with a flawless A/F. Runs crisp and strong everywhere. That bike actually had a stretch and a fat tire and still made 180hp.

But I'm just pointing stuff out and offering my opinion sir.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/7/2014 @ 12:27 PM *

Just to be clear...
i can remove the flies and leave the bar in place
and I won't get any kind of fuel injection error on the display screen

I have bike apart ready to do this. I just don't want the fuel injection error code

And thanks for the other info. At some point I may look into a flashing it .
I just want to take small steps.

First step for me is to see if I can remove the butterflies if I don't get a fuel injection error code
does anyone know if it will throw the code or not with them missing?

It shouldn't throw a code of any sort if you simply remove them sir!

Be sure to use a NEW magnetic bit when removing them! This has been mentioned many times but it bears repeating. You don't want to mar the screw heads. Heat the bit till it is hot and hold on the screw to semi melt the locking agent before turning driver. Once they are all out and no screws have fallen into the black hole, you are ready for re-assembly. When riding at first take your time getting used to the improved response. Its a definite improvement down low!

The short answers.

i can remove the flies and leave the bar in place

and I won't get any kind of fuel injection error on the display screen

I have bike apart ready to do this. I just don't want the fuel injection error code

Thank you for your assistance. I really appreciate it.

OK all done. I did it a little different then from what i read.
3 of the bolts just fell out like nothing.no heat ...makes me wonder if they had any thread locker at all.
2 stripped out. So i zip tied the actuator arm so no movement could occur and i stuck my shop vac. By where i was drilling heads off. Then vacuum out behind flies just for good measure. Verified no debris .

took it out for test spin. Very noticeable improvement from 3k to 6K .
Going to slap on the shorties on the exhaust and see what that feels like.

thanks again for all your guys help.
no code btw :)

Jarrod, bet me you'll C-up once the flies wear off, the slips, etc.

What ya mean hub ?

1. Subs Gone.
2. Slips on.
3. PAIR plugging.
4. PC5
5. Ivan's setup you rather just plug and play.
6. Turbo
7. Flash
8. Rogaine for the scrotum
9. Where are we at, or where do we stop on the list of mods?
10. Wheels
11. Ceramic bearings
12. Ti hardware
13. That's what I mean

LOL i tend to agree. .i will settle for little steps at a time...although dyno tune has a sweet nitrous set up ;)

You'll definitely want to tune for NOS. I think that system works off the temp sensor in the air box to somehow richen up the AFR but I'm sure it's much better to know the #s all are on the money. Good luck. I'll be installing the Dynotune NOS on my 08 soon. I like flies out on my bike too but to really smooth out the power delivery at 3500 rpm, you will need a proper map. You're still running on flies in fueling. You'll still feel some of the same old hit of power at 3500 even with flies out.

What's it cost to get it flashed ( ball park idea ) just curious.
Thanks

Gen 1 Cblast flash is $300.00

Just to point out that the reason these screws strip so easily is that they are NOT Phillips head screws. Yes, they look like standard Phillips heads but the shape of the slots are different. So you don't get a good "bite" from the regular screwdriver and it cams out (i.e. strips the head) very easily.

These types of screw heads are the norm for Japanese products and they are called JIS screws for Japanese Industrial Standard.

The correct drivers are inexpensive and readily available. Here is one example:

http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

I got a set of these a couple of years ago and they make all the difference when working on any Japanese motorcycle or car.

A JIS screw will almost always have a "dot" on the head:

* Last updated by: jwh20 on 7/8/2014 @ 5:15 PM *

I'm sure those JIS screwdrivers are great but I found a brand new #2 phillips with a grit coated tip to get the job done quite effectively. I still use it on the few screws that are on the bikes. Def want a set of JIS screwdrivers though.

Also, Use a soldering pen or heat the screwdriver up to cherry red and set it on the fly screw for two minutes before removing. My screws broke loose and turned out like they were greased.

The grit on some phillips does help but the real problem is the angle. The JIS is shallower and so the pointy-er phillips driver only engages near the center of the screw head where there is less leverage vs. all the way across the slots.

It's hard to see the difference when looking at the screw head but if you hold a JIS and a phillips next to each other you can see it clearly.