I just purchased a 2009 ZX-14. I have a few questions regarding the installation of a new 4-1 pipe and the power commander.
1. Can anyone help with the instructions on how to install the exhaust system?
2. Is the power commander actually required and if so, where would be the best place to purchase a cheap V-5?

Thanks
Fred

Welcome, Fred.

There is a lot of discussion about the PC and some could help out, some will mention to search the site. But, it sure happens faster you just simply ask the questions.

Here is my opinion: The pipe should have stepped instructions from start to finish. Other than that, you need an 8mm hex wrench, a selection of 14mm box end and socket setup, a 12mm box end wrench that might be cut in half or to a special length, made to fit the exhaust flange nuts.

You can get away with reusing the exhaust gaskets, but the caveat is if she leaks at the header flange and a little more bite to the nut does not shut down the hiss, then remove everything all over again and replace with new. That move is totally up to you. I have a new set waiting in the wings. I'm swapping pipes a few times and can get away with about 3 swaps and then she hisses. Smart move is to replace with new and you can check the nuts periodically until they seat some from the flexing. Then she settles in, no need to worry.

Since you have a street bike with a relatively quiet exhaust, you can tune the bike more with the PC. So, every step can stop or continue tuning the bike for more HP. If that is where you want to go, then others will chime in as to best buy and all that good stuff. I'm bowing out because I do not use said product and not familiar with it. Have fun with the bike. She's begging for it.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/31/2010 @ 2:59 PM *

Hub,

Thank you for the information. It is greatly appreciated. I have the tools and everything I need to do the job. I just hate to remove cowling. I will replace the gaskets, I have realized it is better to replace the gaskets than it is to take a short save 15 bucks and have to do it over again. Great help!
Do you know if the Radiator is actually required to be remove on the ZX-14? It appears it does looking from the outside

Thanks Fred .

Your welcome, Fred. See that, 'aluminum stay bar' at the bottom of the radiator? I remove that at the radiator, not the engine side. I then take a bungie cord, load the radiator back and away, watching pivot points and contact angles... Once you pull as far away as you can without damaging or tweaking the radiator out of joint, you are ready for any exhaust system.

First, you have that blue painter's tape for fairing hardware. One piece at a time goes like this. I have a bolt or allen head, washer, grommet, whatever falls in hand, you have that hardware replaced right back in the holes it came out of in the fairing sections. This way, you have nothing scattered all over, wondering where this one came out of and what sequence it reassembles back to. Photos taken beforehand help too.

Then, you cut out cardboard to the square of the inner side of the radiator. Tape that over the radiator fins for protection at the back of your hands, more than for fin damage you can re-bend. You will have plenty of room if you call that room. I've pulled the headers for bung work and have yet to remove the radiator.

Hand assemble the header one piece at a time or assemble as a unit. Whatever works your way and how you want to approach it is that the parts still assemble one way. Line up things before you tighten up parts. Everything will not line up, you tighten something down first.

Same goes with the 3 piece stock exhaust. Headers are tightened first. Exhaust ends are hung and where the best rear bracket seems to lay against it's mounting post is set there. Then tighten the mid clamp if there is one like the stock muffler to end of header. At this point it is all more, straight forward work than anything else. That rear hanger should have no gap and line right up against the bike. You have that gasket squared to the pipe when you bolt down the header band. That means the pipe is well built, you need no shims to stack in between the bike an rear muffler bracket. Last thing you want now is a load on the whole pipe you worked so hard not to have, with each pipe section installed.

Kind of straight forward things go together smooth like a stock set of header/muffler systems. Have fun. Don't call it work and good luck.

Thank you, I'll let you know how it goes.

I removed the radiator when i installed my exhaust but the reason for doing so was to help with the heating problem, i drained system and refilled with engine ice. But just changing out headers i agree with Hub no need to remove radiator UNLESS lol like my exhaust is put together with the springs and I tell you I was glad i removed the radiator.

Unless youve removed the fairings before they can be a bit tricky, if you ned detailed instructions for removal shoot my a line and i'll help you through it its a little intimidating the first time but its really not that bad if you know what to remove

I know it has been a while since I posted. I actually got it installed. Oh MY GOD what a differance. I cant keep the front wheel down. I have replaced two tire. The DYNOsays 191HP. It went throught and hit hte speed limitter at 187. On the streets I have been that fast and it still wants to roll. When it hits that limiter it scare me I though I blew it up.
Th original pipes must weight 70 pounds. Holy crap.

Anyone riding in the San Diego Area?

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP
Fred

Wow! Sounds like you have a strong one there.

Another good way to save weight is to replace the battery with one of those light ones. Cuts another 10 pounds or so.

I lived in San Diego for about 45 years. Happy to be in Colorado now (except for the higher altitudes, which sap power from the bike.

Have fun and be safe... -bg

Nice work, but we need pics of the 4-1!