Hi, everyone. I have a '07 zx14r SE Secondary flies were removed. 4-2-1 Vance and Hines Pro competition sidewinder, Was using a PC3 til it burned out. Now installing A Bazzazz zfi. I was wondering if I change my injectors to 440cc and get a stronger fuel pump can the stock cam and crank handle it? Do I need to retard the timing?

"can the stock cam and crank handle it?"
Yes
"Do I need to retard the timing?"
No

Your 07 ZX-14 does not have the R designation. Injector size has nothing to do with what your crank can handle. Why exactly are you messing with injector size and fuel pump capacity? Turbo or nitrous bike? Different injectors will require a completely custom tune just so it will run correctly. Give us more information.

If that's all you've done ...
No need to change the injectors
or
mess with the timing.

"if I change my injectors to 440cc."
I missed this one. So that's a No? You already have 440's?

As Mav stated, what are you trying to do? What is set in your mind something has to be done and you are going to do what? Change a pipe? No. Change to another pig? No. Change the air speed removing the flies? No. Changing fuel because you thing what?

Out engineer this bike you won't. No harm in trying.

I wanna beef my bike a little bit more. But I don't wanna get caught out there by Snake oil salesmen. It was suggested to me and something didn't feel right about it. In all respect I've quiet down a few zuk, yam loyalists with it the way it is. lol But I still wanna keep it street legal. Thanks for the input. Cause this shop was padding mess that just didn't make since to have for everyday use.

* Last updated by: Gizmo on 1/23/2015 @ 7:20 AM *

Someone legitimately offered injectors and a pump as a performance increase? Wow.... Well anyway your best bang for the buck is going to be an optimized sprocket combo for your goals. If you really want some more power, then I would suggest a head and cam package by a REPUTABLE vendor. Carpenter posts their different packages and the power you can expect. Turn key packages even.

If it were my bike...

Tour:
a. Flies out.
b. No pig/flash assist.
c. Any pipe.
d. PAIR
e. A well sunk throttle body.

Sport:
a. Flies out.
b. A remote pig that turns off when in tour mode.
c. Spare ECU with flash to swap between tour/mess with the slower bike(s) modes.
d. PAIR disabled because it adds smoothness was my experience.
e. Mandatory Sync.

Hub, a question on d. pair disabled.
What is your method/suggestion? On the gen 1 I could remove the whole set up, put in blocking offlayes and leave the connector there unplugged. No hassles.
On the 14r if I try the same set up I get an error light coming on. So have resorted to just blocking the pipe from the airbox with a marble.

PAI-R Disable in the cheap seats:

1. Plug left side hose.
2. Leave the parts alone. Why? The reeds burn out you'll hear it: then replace it with OE or aftmkt caps.
3. Find a broken coffee pot, something electronic, go to radio shack, close your eyes and pick any resistor with long [enough]legs out of the silicone [glass] drip over that wire.
4. The PAIR actuator is a 2 wire plug. Run one resistor leg down the female connector on the [main wire harness side] and complete the circuit by moving the other resistor wire down the second female connector.
5. Take a dab of the 'amazing' workable 'goop' so the resistor stays in place; the glue comes off usually in one piece; the connector and resistor are not damaged when reversing the parts back to stock.
6. Turn key on.
7. Look in the mirror.
8. You teeth should be in about this position.

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/24/2015 @ 9:30 AM *