not a how to...just what I'm doing

7500 mile service... throttle body sync, bolt tightening, and a few other things. I also have a couple other minor issues I'm addressing which aren't related specifically to the service interval. Clutch fluid need changed and my CTEK's charge lead indicator led readout (green/yellow/red leds) stopped working. 7500 mile service calls for spark plugs but I changed those out at the end of the season.

I was hoping to change tires and do an oil change but my Q3s have a couple hundred miles left on them still. And I'm going to wait another 500 miles for the oil change (4k miles). That should get me through to the end of the season

Started last night, got body work off. I considered the CTEK charge indicator stopped working due to battery terminal corrosion. I pulled the battery, negative terminal did have quite a bit of corrosion build up. I cleaned that but it didn't fix the indicator issue. The CTEK 3300 charger came with one so I put that one on. It doesn't have the cool little led read out though. I'll have to order another one of the led equipped leads and put it on during the off season.

Here's a pic of my (now old) clutch fluid. The factory fluid was even worse, and was definitely affecting clutch operation. I bled the clutch mid-season last year, as hard as it is for me to believe it's this bad already. Clutch operation wasn't being affected like the OE fluid. But figured no harm in bleeding it anyway. I bled the f/r brakes last year and the fluid looks fine/normal at this point.

I synched the "carbs" (throttle bodies) today....

Used my "highly accurate tachometer" to verify engine rpm was in the proper range

prior to sync

after sync (also notice the fresh clutch fluid...and also you can see the front brake fluid which looks normal).

Tomorrow going to do the rest of the checks, and get the bodywork back on!

* Last updated by: VicThing on 5/16/2015 @ 8:20 PM *

not a how to...just what I'm doing

I call these, "How I's."

Used my "highly accurate tachometer" to verify engine rpm was in the proper range

I synched the "carbs" (throttle bodies) today....

Looks like you were very close to balanced before adjusting.

See #2 needle in the first photo? If you moved the main plate to compensate, where is that in compression, in needle air screw setting? See your 4 variables; one goes thru for the big ticket tune? 1)comp 2)needles 3)air 4)plate. Not trying to dis the service interval. These are basic moves read in between the lines of the manual's sync work. Nothing is vague anymore, right?

negative terminal did have quite a bit of corrosion build up.

Pictures don't really show the readings very accurately. 1, 3, & 4 needed sync'd. They are all 275 +-10 now. Bike seems to be running a tidbit better overall too, I will say.

Hub thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind. Hub keep in mind the tb syncing is different for Gen 1 and Gen 2.

Vic, you're welcome.

Bike seems to be running a tidbit better overall too, I will say.
Hub thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind.

syncing is different for Gen 1 and Gen 2.

This is where the vague comes from, Vic. You need to see air to fuel ratio entry. I'm not playing tricks on the theory. Go argue with my AFR meter. Close the air screws down. Sync the throttle plates is that middle screw they told you not to touch. Count each turn out 1/4. Add two more vac gauges. Sync 4 air screws. Doesn't get any more vaguess you want tidbit and I'm smooooooothing along.

highly accurate tachometer? Where'd you get? Expensive?

And I'm going to wait another 500 miles for the oil change (4k miles). That should get me through to the end of the season

Hi Vic: Huh? you'll ride 500 miles, or less, this season? Your clutch oil (common bath) should be banging your ears loud 'n clear, saying "change me now!, if you're close to 4K miles.

Mine does, anyway. I'll be near oil changing time, and shift from N to 1st, and the cycle bucks under me with a muffled bang. I've grown used to it, expect it. But, it's my heads-up: new oil needed.

* Last updated by: mebgardner on 5/21/2015 @ 4:38 PM *

I also went looking for the threads that I previously read on this site, about why it's a really good idea to change out foul looking clutch fluid.

I was re-upping my memory cells and figured it might be useful to others, too.

I came up with one thread that describes a leaking clutch slave, and it has pictures:

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=92C74A78-92C3-FA1F-FA90F055867F8DF8&searchTerm=clutch%20fluid&page=1

That thread refers to one of Rook's HOW-TO'S, where a chain and sprockets are R+R'ed. (for reference).

Other, more recent, threads allow that the clutch fluid can be changed out by only removing and replacing the fluid in the clutch perch reservoir. I now do this, instead of a "full bleed".

Other, more recent, threads allow that the clutch fluid can be changed out by only removing and replacing the fluid in the clutch perch reservoir. I now do this, instead of a "full bleed".

I think that is probably sufficient and it's what the manual recommends. If you don't need to bleed, I feel it's better to save the wear on the bleeder threads. There's not much fluid in the lines, most is in the reservoir. Also, if you bleed the whole system dry, you suck the black residue down into the reservoir. I'd feel better sucking the reservoir dry with a syringe or empty squeeze bottle and then wiping the black film out of the bottom with a paper towel.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/21/2015 @ 8:26 PM *

Thanks for the confirmation, Rook.

Rook I always empty the reservoir first. One of the advantages of having a vacuum bleeder.

As far as the "highly accurate tachometer" it's a GTC TA500 SmarTach. It took some effort to find and I considered a few products. I paid $230 for it on Amazon. I saw it for a few bucks lower but GTC's support was good so I figured WTH give them the business.

Will air get into the lines if you suck out all the clutch fluid? Also is it necessary to change the spark plugs at 7,500 miles?

As far as the "highly accurate tachometer" it's a GTC TA500 SmarTach.

Will air get into the lines if you suck out all the clutch fluid?

Also is it necessary to change the spark plugs at 7,500 miles?

Rook, the closest thing in that price range was an hour meter. It might have worked by wrapping the antenna lead around the stick coil, but it was made for distributor ignitions not distributor-less. It was also only rated up to 2 cylinders, although it remains uncertain exactly what this implicates. I was able to gather some understanding of this due to different makes/models of ignition systems and the number of leads at the stick coil. I figured $230 wasn't too bad, and I can use this for other vehicles too. The first make/model I found was $600 and that's when I went on and found the hour meter, eventually leading to the GTC unit.

I agree with Rooks other answers. As long as there's no warranty claim that can be attributed to spark plug failure, say if your motor blows up they might be able to say it was due to the spark plugs having 7501 miles on them... not sure where that line lays. I'll probably replace mine once a season.

Thanks, Vic. Looks like $230 gone out of my wallet. Did you happen to notice how the GTC reading compared to the bike's tachometer? IOW, maybe I could just use the bike tach if it's "highly accurate" enough.

What about the TA100 instead of the TA500?

http://www.amazon.com/GTC-TA100-Smartach-Wireless-Tachometer/dp/B000RT9BH2

Here's what I found on Amazon:
What's the difference between TA100 and T500? ref:pctmd2008

A: Ta500 can check the burn time on each sparkplug on the scope. PETER HOPKINS answered on October 29, 2014
A: The TA500 mimikes the TA100 but with 2 additional features. The TA500 will give spark burn time readings and show spark voltage on "coil over plug" equiped vehicles. Joseph Peterson answered on October 29, 2014

Think I'd get along ok with the 100 or might I need the 500 at some point to check spark voltage and spark burn time?

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/25/2015 @ 10:05 AM *

Also is it necessary to change the spark plugs at 7,500 miles?

I agree with Rook and Vic on this, but I would like to add that it's important to routinely check them.

Threre's more to it than just looking at the plug, too. What is as important, or maybe even more important (depending on their condition), is that they get removed for inspection.

The act of breaking them loose for inspection prevents buildups that *could* freeze them in place. Once frozen by (carbon, etc) buildup, they're a real PITA to then "un-freeze", and so it's important to prevent this from occuring.

I've been warned about spark plugs gettting stuck from being left in too long but I'm glad to say that was not a problem for me. The only one I ever loosened in 6 years was the #4 cylinder plug but they all broke free easy enough when I tried last fall. I should have replaced them all then but I didn't want to do an engine fog with brand new plugs in. HA--I never got around to the engine fog anyway!

TA500 is for coil on plug, TA100 is for spark plug wires. With the TA500, all you do is put the antenna lead on the stick coil and it'll read rpm, voltages, etc. TA100 won't work for out purpose outside of rigging it up. With that said, it might be possible to somehow wrap it's antenna lead around the stick coil...not sure. I've read mixed reviews saying this works/doesn't work. I didn't feel like experimenting so just went with the 500. If you try a TA100 it'd be cool to know how you end up getting it working.

Idle adjustment for Gen 1 and 2 are different. Gen 1s you can adjust idle speed. Gen 2 you cannot, at least in the manner we think of (making an adjustment via a screw or something). Gen 2 idle speed control is either correct or incorrect, controlled by the Idle Control Valve Actuator. Overall I'd say the ICP tach is accurate on my bike. However I do understand the call for something more accurate. If the OE tach had some kind of graduation I would feel safe going by it.

I don't know why Kaw calls for new plugs every 7500 miles. I figure they must have some reason for it, but it elude me. I've read a lot of opinions on it on this site and others, and the best I can figure is the iridium is lost over time and although the plug looks fine this might affect it's performance. However, I also believe all the testimonials here that many are using the plugs for 5-10x the service interval and as far as they can tell performance is not affected.

Thanks. Guess I will have to get the TA500 like you. Better to spend the money than have failed experiments.