Think in 3's to work things out. Mix and match = 3.
1. Axle
2. Fork
3. Stems
1. X = Axle locks both forks as one
2. Y = Stems lock the legs as one
3. Z = Forks act as one
Mix & Match
1. Springs
2. Oils
3. Needles
1. X = Springs now run in decimals, meaning a 10 spring goes down to a 9.5 spring. Springs act as one so this now can average out to 1/2 and 1/4 pound increments between 2 springs working as one. Math says a cut from 10/10 springs to 10/9.5 springs no longer are a hard 10, but a softer 10 + 9.5 = 19.5 / 2 = a 9.75 spring rate.
2. Y = Look at the same rate of flow as the spring's rate, but now there are two rates of flow that still act as one.
3. Z = If we call the fork a one unibody component, we still can mirror the needle as if they were at the bottom and top, but now we have one working the top, the other leg works the bottom, we still have compression and rebound as to one body being one (unit).
Why didn't I know this long ago is well, there you go... Think one unit and bingo, fine tune that puppy as one. But you don't have to go that whack with the oil. You can mess with the height of the oil too, but better you stay book and remain level no matter the weights or heights. Yes, you could keep one high level, one low and use the air compression between the oil's surface and top of fork, you compress those 2 variables and keep going, thinking as one. Got it?
Buy a wooden dowel small enough or use an aluminum welding rod, then hook it so it drops into the fork for oil leveling, measure that out and you are half way there. The rest is run soft and work your way up to hard. Once you feel hard/harsh body pounding, back it off. Something like that.
Write down all your settings and loops or you'll just guess at it and come back with the same combo and went nowhere. Make hard moves or soft moves. Depends on how much bump you want to take. Faster rebound the sooner the tire is back on the road. So run soft rebound. The trick is to make the bike compress and come back up as even in the front as in the rear.
Here is where you have a second set of eyes to mark for sag. The valves are open so the flow is fast. This settles the springs think. Even if you cranked the needles hard, they still bleed off and the spring sag will be the same. Get it? So balance springs and your a 1/4 way there if 1/2 is the oil level. The rest is how hard you want your neck to be pounded once you hit a good bump is the compression and then work the rebound so there is this evenness between the valving. Sounds simple, right?
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