It was some time ago that I was involved in a thread about control levers and now I forget what was mentioned as a good lubricant. Now that I see how easy it is to remove them I would like to take care of it.

What is good to use and what parts need to be lubed on front brake lever and clutch mechanisms --any other related details you might think of?

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/16/2011 @ 3:17 PM *

I don't lube mine, I just keep them clean. Think about it, what does lube and grease attract? dust and dirt and in the long run will cause more problems. Just keep them good and clean.

lol....I am pretty sure it was you Heathun....who was in in the lever convo some months back... I think Hub was recommending white lithium for some parts.

The chrome pivot on my clutch has some black marks. I don't know what is so special about white lithium but I think I'm going to try it if the black marks wont polish off.

How about the piston pins that the lever(s) operate. We have an electrical switch for 'no start w/o clutch' and of course, the pin that operate the clutch itself. Any lube on those? I see there is some kind of dirty lube build up on them. It DOES attract dirt but apparently they were lubed at the factory.

In all my years of riding, I've never lubed them. if you do I would use dielectric grease on the piston pin, yea Hub is right on with white litium on most parts.

Thanks, heathun. I Have dialectic and W Lithium. Starting to develop a nice collection of exotic lubes here.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/17/2011 @ 8:58 AM *

I use silicone spray for any linkage I want to lubricate but keep clean.......the white lithium is good stuff, but it goes on as white or yellowish in color and is tough to get cleaned up after it "cures". Silicone spray goes on clear and stays clear

This is from the ASV site for maintenance:
PS
(I've never lubed a lever in the 38 years I've been riding)

To Clean your ASV lever-

Use contact cleaner or a solvent based cleaner. If your lever has been exposed to water (washing your motorcycle/ATV) dry with cloth or use air from an air compressor.

To lubricate your ASV lever-

DO NOT USE A HEAVY OIL on the spring or pivot area. This will allow the area to collect dirt and grime, and decrease the performance of your ASV lever. Use a light solvent based oil like WD40. The spring on your ASV lever is made of a special Chrome Silicon wire and can not be plated. It will develop some rust. That is O.K. Just keep a light film of WD40 to prevent corrosion. Same with the bearing pivot area and perch pivot area.

Be sure to check the reach adjust lock nut to be sure it is tight on a regular basis. It is recommended that after you get the reach adjust perfect that you use some loc-tite bolt glue to lock it into place.

* Last updated by: gumbybob on 3/18/2011 @ 1:08 PM *

I wish Kawi would sell the grease they use for the chains. That is THE lithium base. But I switched to more exotic blends. I'm now in the copper anti-seize mode. I dropped the lith because I used it all on the chain. I have real old grease cartridges I'm still playing out.

I bought a too thin a grease and it flings off the chain too soon. So back to the heavy grease to the chain; anti-seize to the pivot pins. No grease to any plastic triggers. They'll stick more than anything is my guess.

The black powder? That's aluminum powder like turns friction burnt. You are rolling that pin over and over at the same spot. It turns from a drilled hole to an egg shape because it is at one angle/one pull.

What would you rather have, a tight lever or a flubbing/vibrating in the air [dry] lever [adding to the flub]?

If shift/brake linkage are not lubed at [their] pivot points, so does that maintenance apply she is stiff in grease or flubs in the air vibrating more black matter into the 'egged shape.'

I agree about not wanting to use a grease that may attact foreign matter into the cable so I have found a Graphite spray from my job that sprays on in a penetrating liquid and then quickly dries to a thin film which is exactly what you want. Only draw back is that it sticks real well and if your not carefull and get it on your paint job it will stain and can be hard to remove. But for cables off the bike I just hang them in a vise, wrap a towel around the top end and spray until it comes out the bottom. Let them dry for a minute and reinstall on the bike. I can see if I can find the name of the product if anyone is interested?

^^I imagine the graphite is similar to molybdenum sulphide grease(which is recommended in the ZX-14 SM as an anti-seize for certain parts) in that the particles are shaped like microscopic plates that lay flat and creatre a semi permanent, slippery shingle effect.

the white lithium is good stuff, but it goes on as white or yellowish in color and is tough to get cleaned up after it "cures".

Same deal as moly and graphite, I'll bet.

I use silicone spray for any linkage I want to lubricate but keep clean......

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I'm always open to more. I may be adding a few new selections to my lube cabinet. have to post pics of the collection some day.

i like Dupont teflon multi use spray, dries pretty quickly, wipes right off unwanted areas. their chain saver is the best ive found! thick to coat, yet dries, doesn't attract much grime like all others do

I have Liquid Wrench silicone spray. Nice stuff for fitting ruber parts together. I use it on the fairing grommets. Only thing, seems like the stuff I use pretty much disappears by the next time I separate the parts.

No wait-- I got some of that stuff on the top of the airbox. Came back to the bike the next day and there was still a darkened spot there. All dried up but some residue was eveidently left behind and no doubt has lubricative properties. Was not easy to wipe off. I guess that might be some fine stuff to use to avoid attracting dust. It should be good unless it is smething that requires an appreciable film of lube (which is most things, IMHO--lever pivots prolly good with just a touch).